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NETTLETON'S

GUIDE

TO

PLYMOUTH, STONEHOUSE,
DEVONPORT,

AND TO THE

NEIGHBOURING COUNTRY;

WITH DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS OF THE

DOCK YARD, NEW VICTUALLING YARD,
BREAKWATER AND EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE;

( Illustrated with three Maps and numerous Prints.)

WRITTEN rOJl THE PROPR'ETOR
BY

GEORGE WIGHTWICK, Architect.

#lgmoutf) :
PUBLISHED BY EDWARD NETTLETON,

( Ptintei to His Majesty and to H.R. H. the Duke of Sussex}

WHIMPLE STREET ;

AND SOLD BY W. COLMAN, FORE-STREET, DEVONPORT J
AND E. COLE, FORE-STREET, STONEHOUSE.

1836.

^

ADVERTISEMENT.

The present little work has been composed,
with the assistant facilities afforded in an early
Guide Book by the Rev. Samuel Rowe.

The author is also much indebted to numerous
gentlemen in the three towns, for the promptitude
with which they furnished all required informa-
ation ; and in particular to H. Chatfield, Esq.
for his industrious aid in the article upon the
Dock Yard. He has likewise to acknowledge
the same kindness on the part of several
gentlemen connected with New Victualling
Establishment.

To Mr. Rowe, as a primitive labourer in the
topography of this neighbourhood, the public
must ever remain a debtor. The later book
may supersede the earlier ; but the name of the
original author will maintain its place.

Athenaeum Terrace,
Plymouth, May, 1836.

List of Maps and Prints.

1 View of St. Andrew's Church, Tower, &c. to face the title.

2 General plan of Streets and Thoroughfares, to face page 1

3 Map of Plymouth Sound and Breakwater 4

4 Map of the Towns and their Vicinities 5

5 Elevations of two old Houses in Notte Street, Plymouth 1 3

6 Plan and Elevation of Plymouth Royal Hotel, Theatre

and Assembly Rooms 15

7 Plan and Elevation of the Athenaeum 17

8 Elevation of the " South Devon and East Cornwall

Hospital and Plymouth Public Dispensary" .... 27 (a)

9 Plan of " The Royal Victualling Yard," and Eleva-

tion of the Entrance Gate 52

10 Devonport Column, &c 61

11 Plan and Elevation of the Town Hall Portico 63

12 Breakwater, Plan and Section 102

13 Eddystone Lighthouse : Elevation and Section 109

14 View of Lary Bridge, &c 127

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Page
INTRODUCTORY SKETCH ; with general descrip-
tion of the three Towns, and vicinity 1

BOROUGH OF PLYMOUTH.— Stranger's Guide.—
Principal Inns ; Lodging Houses ; Baths ; Hacknev
Coaches ; Post Office ; Citadel, &c. ; Hotel, Assem-
bly Rooms and Theatre : AthenaeEm ; St. Andrew's
Chapel ; Public Library ; St. Andrew's Church ;
Guildhall ; Charles' Church ; Custom House ; Royal
Baths ; Hospital and Dispensary 7

Supplemental Summary, Municipal Information ; Cha-
ritable Institutions ; Races ; Regatta ; Horticultural
Society ; Historic Sketch 29

STONEHOUSE. Stranger s Guide. Inns; Lodging
Houses ; Gas Company ; St. George's Chapel ;
St. Paul's Chapel; Marine Barracks; Victualling
Yard ; Naval Hospital 49

Supplemental Summary 58

DEVONPORT. Stranger's Guide. Inns ; Lodging
Houses and Baths ; Hackney Coaches ; Post Office ;
Column ; Town Hall ; Library ; Mount Zion Chapel ;
St. Aubyn's Chapel ; St. John's Chapel ; Dock Yard
Chapel ; Government House ; Port Admiral's House ;
Richmond Walk 61

Supplemental Summary . . 69

The Dock Yard and Gun Wharf 74

STOKE. Stranger's Guide. Belmont House ; Block
House ; Stoke Church ; Military Hospital 89

Supplement • • • 92

MORICE TOWN. Stranger's Guide. Powder
Magazine • 93

CONTENTS.

Page

Torpoint Bridge 95

Supplement 97

PLYMOUTH SOUND. Stranger's Guide 99

Breakwater 99

Eddystone Lighthouse 104

Mount Edgcumbe 113

Maker, Cawsand, Rame, Milbrook, &c 120

Sharrow Grot 123

Saltram, Lary Bridge, &c 125

Rail Road, Bickleigh Vale, &c 134

Kitley, the Yealm, &c 137

The Erme, Ivy Bridge, &c 1 39

Trematon Castle and Port Eliot 143

Tavistock and its Neighbourhood, MorwelJ Rocks,

Lidford, &c , 148

Endsleigh, Launceston, &c 159

Dartmoor 163

Cotehele and Pentillie 168

Carrington, the Poet 171

Appendix 173

Index . . . * 183

INTRODUCTORY SKETCH.

The stranger, uninfluenced by local sympathies and
mere parish politics, will regard Plymouth, Stonehouse,
and Devonport, as one large and important town,
occupying the great portion of a paralellogram, 1\ miles
in length by one mile in breadth, and containing a
population of nearly one hundred thousand souls.

On passing rapidly through the principal thoroughfare
which unites the three divisions, he will be more
awakened to its extent than to its beauty. He will
remark, that (as far as he can judge) Plymouth is
inconveniently irregular, Stonehouse insipidly the
reverse, and that the Fore Street of Devonport is the
handsomest commercial street between the Eastern
entrance of Plymouth, and the Dock Yard on the
extreme west. He will glance at many handsome
shops, and some respectable rows of private houses ;
^but, unless he obtain by chance a passing glimpse at the
Royal Hotel of Plymouth, and the Town Hall of
Devonport, he will entertain a temporary opinion far
from flattering to the architectural pretensions of the
towns, and which, though not obvious to a stage coach
spectator, are many and considerable. In brief, he will
speak in total ignorance of the redeeming features which
are subsequently to meet his eye and charm his sense ;
of scenic beauty unique in its kind ; of public works
remarkable for extent and grandeur; and of many less
striking, but equally pleasing evidences to the acquired
and still thriving importance of our Western Emporium.

!By a reference to our map of leading thoroughfares,
&c. the respective localities of the three towns will be
at once explained. The brown colour indicates the
principal streets ; the portions etched are supposed to
S. be occupied more or less with minor streets and
numerous private residences ; and the leading Naval,

2 INTRODUCTORY SKETCH,

Military, and other Government Establishments are
marked by a tint of red. The figures are hereunder
referred to as marking the respective localities of the
following buildings : —

1, St. Andrew's Church. 11, Athenaeum.

2, Charles' Church. 12, Stonehouse Church.

3, Exchange. 13, Stonehouse Chapel.

4, Custom House. 14, Eldad Chapel.

5, Guildhall. 15, Stoke Church.

6, Public Library. 16, Government House.

7, Freemasons' Hall. 17, St. Aubyn's Chapel.

8, Charles' Chapel. 18, St. John's Chapel.

9, St. Andrew's Chapel. , 19, Monumental Column.
10, Hotel, Assembly Rooms 20, Town Hall.

and Theatre. 21, Public Library.

It will be observed, that the united towns cover an
irregular site, broken into by several small bays and
creeks ; bounded on the east, by the commercial
harbour of Catvvater and Saltram Lake (the mouth of
the River Plym ;) and on the west by the noble harbour
of Hamoaze, which forms the mouth of the Tamar River,
separating the counties of Devonshire and Cornwall.

The great body of the Plymouth division occupies a
hollow, formed by North Hill on the inland side, and
on the water side by an airy elevation called the Hoe,
the summit and declivity of which are laid out in
promenades, where the inhabitants may at once inhale
the ever-fresh breeze of health, and luxuriate in an
enchanting picture of sea and land, constantly varying
in effect, and, in every variety, most beautiful. From
hence, the spectator commands the full expanse of
Plymouth Sound; the pine clad heights of Mount
Edgcumbe on his right ; the verdant banks of Staddon
on the left; the Breakwater in the middle distance,
breasting with its mile of artificial rock the " rude sea "
beyond, and diminished by space and partial conceal-
ment from a gigantic mole to a mere line ; the extended

INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. 3

horizon of the English Channel, with the dimly seen
Eddystone bounding the outward view ; and the
picturesque Island of St. Nicholas, with a fore ground
of rock and verdure, completing the nearer prospect.

Stonehouse, for the most part occupies the same level
with Plymouth; and, from Cremill Point, there is a
finer view of Mount Edgcwnbe, separately considered,
than from the Hoe, or, perhaps any other situation.
This remark is particularly urged upon the notice of
the stranger, whose ideas as to the magnitude and
character of the celebrated feature in question may
require for their fulfilment, that proximity, which the
point of view here recommended sufficiently affords.
Prom hence you obtain also a glance into the mouth of
Hamoaze, where the flag ship is usually stationed ;
and, from the summit, (by the reservoir) a curious bird's-
eye-view of the New Victualling Establishment.

Devonport is situate on an eminence considerably
above Plymouth and Stonehouse, which it overlooks
with all the pride of martial dignity and protection.
Here also, the lover of the scenic (it can scarcely be
called "the picturesque ") may gratify a yet untried
taste ; for we doubt, whether a prospect so strangely
interesting as that commanded by the gallery of the
monumental Column is to be found elsewhere. In
addition to acres of land and water, hill and valley,
town and country, wTe look down upon the several
building slips of the Dock Yard, one of which is covered
by a single roof, of acres one and a quarter ! The
combined aspect of the Dock Yard, and the expansive
waters of Hamoaze, (where, at this moment of our
writing, between 90 and 100 ships of war are
" reposing on their own shadows/') is truly impressive.*
The Village of Torpoint on the opposite side of the
water, bearing north west, is, as it were, the vestibule

* March 6th, 1835 — In commission, 7 ; not in commission,
64 ; in dock, 4; old ships for harbour use, 7 ; 1 sheer hulk,
and 5 others > now building, 5.

a 2

4 INTRODUCTORY SKETCH.

into South Cornwall, and communicates with New
Passage, Devonport, by means of a Steam Flying
Bridge, contrived under the masterly superintendence of
J. M. Rendel, Esq. and of which a particular account
will be hereafter given.

Morice Town ascends Eastward from the harbour to
the widely extended and populous Village of Stoke,
which occupies a still higher elevation than Devonport,
and includes the Block-house, marked in our plan.
The panoramic view from hence is justly celebrated, as
challenging (in the words of Mr. Rowo) " a high rank
among the many delightful prospects which

" England holds
" Within her world of beauty."

To conclude these general remarks upon the scenic
riches of the immediate neighbourhood, we may mention
the charming views from Woodside, (see map) those
in and from Mount Edgcumbe, and the extraordinary
prospects from certain positions on Cat-down, and
Staddon Heights, enthusiastically eulogized by the
greatest landscape painter of the day.

By reference to the small map, engraved as a " Guide
to Plymouth Sound and Breakwater/' a correct idea
may be formed as to their form, magnitude, and relative
position, with the English Channel on the south, and
the three towns on the north. It will be seen, that the
opening of the Sound between Penlee Point and the
Shag Stone is about three miles; that it afterwards
widens into Cawsand Bay, and is subsequently con-
tracted by the promontory of Mount Edgcumbe : that
the Breakwater is abouta mile within the opening of the
Sound, and about two and a quarter miles from the Hoe
Cliffs. It will be also observed, that after passing the
narrow strait of Cremill, or the Devil's Point, the waters
greatly expand themselves, and supply not only the deep
and capacious harbour of Hamoaze, but also {see map, 3)
numerous shallow lakes and ramifications. The Eddy-

shall spl

a 3

V"1?

GUIDE to PLYMOUTH SOOTH) a^d BREAKWATER,

SP

A 3

vmJ

GENERAL OUTLINE of Ad ENVIRONS of P.LY&OCTH and DEVOKPORT*

INTRODUCTORY SKETCH. 5

stone Lighthouse, distant from Plymouth about fourteen
miles, and from llame Head (the nearest point of land)
about nine miles, is situate in the direction marked by
the two lines diverging towards the Plymouth Citadel.

The map, No. 3, gives the positions of the combined
Port, its Sound and Harbours, in relation to the
localities of its environs, extending east and west,
seventeen miles each way, and about twenty miles
north. It may here be stated, that Plymouth is 216
miles from London, and 44 miles from Exeter. Its
distance from the chief of the smaller towns marked on
the map, is as follows : — Tavistock, 15: Ashburton, 24 :
Liskeard, 18 : Laimceston, 27. The stage coach roads
alone are coloured ; and the single red line, marks the
course of the Rail Road from the Quays of the Port to
the Granite Quarries in Dartmoor. We shall have
occasion to allude hereafter to the surpassing beauty of
the Rail Road scenery. The southern portion of Dart-
moor is indicated by a tint of green. This remarkable
Forest opens a grand source of interest to all who visit
Devonshire. Its numerous Tors of "herbless granite"
arrest the distant eye, while the antiquarian and mine-
ralogist rejoice in exploring its super and substratic curio-
sities— its Druidical remains, or mines of tin and copper.
From its dreary summit flows many a torrent to
follow its rocky course towards the sea; and though
the interior be for the most part monotonously desolate,
the boundaries may be described as unsurpassable in
richness and beauty. We may, perhaps, be allowed to
compare Dartmoor to a black velvet pall surrounded
with golden fringe.

It will be observed that our Environs include a con-
siderable portion of Cornwall, separated as before stated
from Devon by the Tamar river, which is readily
traceable through our map from south to north. Of
the scenic beauties of this river, including the Duke of
Bedford's Cottage at Endsleigh, the Rocks of Morwell,
and the interesting seats of Cothele and Pentillie we
shall speak in due time. The rivers Tavy, Plym,
a 3

6 INTRODUCTORY SKETCH.

Lynher, Yealm, Erme, Lid, and Dart, are also within
the province of our descriptive labours, together with
the noble residences of the Earl Mount Edgcumbe, of
the Earl St. Germans, Saltram, the seat of the Earl of
Morley, the beautiful mansions of Antony, Thanckes,
Warleigh, Maristow, Buckland Abbey, Kitley, &c. and
several interesting pieces of Gothic antiquity, including
the Castles of Launceston, Trematon, and Plympton,
and the extensive remains of Tavistock Abbey.

We trust in being at least excused for giving this
general sketch of the various matters, which await, and
deserve the notice of all visitors and others, who really
desire an acquaintance with the United Towns and their
Environs/ Our motive has been, to awaken them to a
sense of the much they have to do — if they have time :
not to terrify them — if they have not. It is only hoped,
that none of our eulogies will lead to disappointment,
and that if the select subjects seen by the visitor should
corroborate the show-man's word, he may be received
as the correct topographer of the unseen remainder.

Having thus taken a general survey of our subject as
a connected whole, we proceed to consider, separately,
its several component features ; nor are we, in giving
precedence to Plymouth, actuated by any other feeling
than is due to the parent town.

It will also be our aim to put foremost such informa-
tion, as a visiting stranger, limited to time, will naturally
desire to be supplied with. To many (perhaps most)
travellers, the ancient history of a town is a matter of
secondary consideration ; and, anxious during their
brief stay, to behold things merely as they now exist,
they are content to postpone the perusal of past epochs,
until they lounge (sated with sight-seeing) in the
cushioned comfort of their departing post-chaise. This
is no intimation that such things will be omitted, or even
slighted, but that they will be found, together with the
usual quantum of municipal information, accounts of
charities, commercial and other matters, in a separate
portion of the book.

BOROUGH OF PLYMOUTH.

STRANGER'S GUIDE.

Principal Inns.

The first Inn of importance, on entering Plymouth
from the Exeter Road, is Rowe's King's Arms.

The Commercial Hotel, in Old Town Street, is the
next to the traveller from Exeter, and the first on
entering from Tavistock. Further on, at the west end
of Bedford-street, is the Globe Hotel; and next appears
the Royal Hotel, &c. &c. forming a stately, and to the
humble visitor, a somewhat startling appearance with
its Ionic porticoes and extended elevations.

Lodging Houses.

In addition to the several leading conveniences just
enumerated, are many Lodging Houses pleasantly
situated, either in quiet or more bustling quarters, as
may be desired.

Baths

of every description may be had at a few minutes notice,
at the establishment in Union Street. (See page 26.)

Hackney Coaches

are generally in readiness at the several stands, viz : the
Royal Hotel, Bedford Street, Old-town Street, Treville
Street, kc. and Omnibuses are constantly plying to and
fro, between the eastern extremity of Plymouth and the
western ditto of Devonport.
a 4

o PLYMOUTH.

The Post Office

is in Bilbury Street; there are also receiving Boxes at
the Royal Hotel, and near the north end of Old Town
Street. (See page 3 3. J

For Fares, and information as to Coaches, Waggons,
Vans, &c. ; Steam Boats, Packets, &c, &c. (Seepage 32,
and Appendix.)

Supposing the visitor duly restored from the fatigues
of travel by repose and refreshment in his temporary
quarters at the Inn or Lodging House, we shall anticipate
his desire to inhale the sea breeze, and enjoy the prospect
from the Hoe. Passing the smaller portico of the Hotel
on his right, and a little further, St. Andrew's granite-
fronted Chapel on his left, he will descry the opening
into Princess Square, a small, but imposing quadrangle
of severe Greek architecture, of which, with other like
matters we shall in due time fully speak. Tracing the
gradual ascent of Lockyer Street, the visitor will pass
the end of Windsor Terrace, a remarkably neat line of
houses recently erected, and forming portion of an
extended scheme of similar character. Continuing the
ascent, he shortly arrives on the summit of the Hoe,
where we leave him to pause a moment and look around !

Of the view, looking sea-ward, we have already
spoken in our introductory remarks. A removable
Camera building of wood, or the railed platform on
which, during the fitting season, it is erected, mark the
spot from which Mr. Barker took the material for his
grand panorama exhibited in London ; from hence,
beginning with Mount Edgcumbe on the right, the eye
passes onward over Cawsand Bay to the tower on Penlee
Point, and, if clear, reaches the Eddystone Lighthouse,
appearing to the naked eye like a sail on the horizon.
On the extreme opposite to Penlee Point, are seen the
Mew and Shag Stones ; and nearer, within the Sound,
the Breakwater, buffeting the open sea, and leaving a
safe harbour of an oft-times glassy smoothness in its
rear. Opposite the eastern end of this celebrated

STRANGER S GUIDE. 9

barrier, is Bovisand Bay, with its fresh water reservoir
and arched quays, a small but pleasing object in the
picture. The line of Staddon Heights brings the eye
forward to Mount Batten, crowned with a circular fort,
once stained with the blood of civil warriors, and now
mounted with the flag of the harbour master. More
than a slight glance into the mouth of Catwater harbour
is prevented by the bold outline of the Citadel, a grand
feature in one of Turner's views of coast scenery.
Leaving the Citadel, the eye passes over the woods of
Saltraru and other varieties of that neighbourhood;
ranges delighted over the distant undulations of Dart-
moor ; and then, by a kind of visual bathos, sinks upon
the slated and tiled roofs of Old Plymouth ; climbs the
handsome square tower of St. Andrews, and the pine-
appled spire of Charles' Church ; takes a horizontal flight
over Woodside to North Hill, and descends upon the
western quarter of Modern Plymouth.

The panorama is completed by the thickly inhabited
elevations of Stoke and parts of Stonehouse below, the
town of Devonport with its Column and Steeples
bearing further west, and the remote Hills of Cornwall
carrying the eye onward to its first point of observation
on Mount Edgcumbe. It only remains to mention the
fortified Island of St. Nicholas on the right below, and
the Lime Stone Quarries of the Western Hoe (private
property) now in active operation, with a view to an
extensive building-scheme, proposed to occupy the site
after it shall have been worked to certain levels. The row
of cottages on the summit are to be regarded as of
temporary duration, being erected by the proprietor,
Thomas Gill, Esq. for the residence of the numerous
labourers employed in the preparatory work of excava-
tion, &c. and which, from the magnitude of the plan,
will necessarily require a period of some duration. The
stuccoed building facing the Eastern Hoe, at the end
of the line of cottages, is used during the week as a
school for the children, and on Sunday as a chapel for

a 5

10 PLYMOUTH.

the families resident on the spot, to which important end
it was licensed by the Bishop, in 1835.

The mean-looking Obelisk on the eastern part of the
Hoe, is important as a land mark to ships entering the
Sound. The carriage roads above and below, together
with the various footpaths on the declivity are constantly
being extended or repaired by the workhouse paupers.

Among the legends of Ancient Plymouth, the most
remarkable is connected with the Hoe, where, it is said,
a mighty combat took place between Brutus' kinsman,
Corinseus, and a Giant. Of course, the former, being
the smaller man, was the greater hero, and manifested
his superior prowess by hurling his huge opponent into
the sea.* The supposed place of their encounter was

* The legend is quaintly described by Drayton in his " Poly-
Olbion." The Trojans having arrived in Albion, in the " verie
place where Totnesse now doth stand," first set up their Gods,

" Kissing the blessed shore ;

Then forraging this He, long promis'd them before,
Amongst the ragged Cleeues those monstrous Giants sought :
Who (of their dreadfullkind) t'appall the Troians, brought
Great Gogmagog, an Oake that by the roots could teare :
So mightie were (that time) the men who liued there :
But, for vse of Armes he did not vnderstand
(Except some rock or tree, that comming next to hand
Hee raz'd out of the earth to execute his rage)
Hee challenge makes for strength, and otTereth there his gage,
Which, Covin taketh vp, to answer by and by,
Vpon this sonne of Earth his vtmost power to try.

All, doubtful to which part the victorie would goe,
Vpon that loftie place at Piimmouth call'd the Hoe,
Those mightie Wrastlers met ; with many an irefull looke
Who threatned, as the one hold of the other tooke :
But, grapled, glowing fire shines in their sparkling eyes.
And, whilst at length of arme one from the other lyes,
Their lusty sinewes swell like cables, as they striue :
Their feet such trampling make, as though the forc't to driue
A thunder out of earth ; which stagger'd with the weight :
Thus, eithers vtmost force vrg'd to the greatest height.
Whilst one vpon his hip the other seeks to lift,
And th'adverse (by a turne) doth from his cunning shift,
Their short-fetcht troubled breath a hollow noise doth make,

stranger's guide. 11

formerly indicated by the "portraiture of two men cut
out in the ground, the one bigger and the other less,
(whom they term Gog-Magog) and repaired by order of
the townsmen, when cause required/'*

The struggles of these mighty men of yore are to the
present day emulated by the prize wrestlers of Devon
and Cornwall, who annually " hold tourney " on the
Hoe. Here, also, the military frequently assemble with
drum and colour, and from hence the yearly Regatta is
advantageously viewed by assembled thousands.

On leaving the Hoe, half an hour may well be spent
in perambulating the

Citadel,

built in the reign of Charles II, and consisting of three
regular and two irregular bastions ; the curtains of the
regular bastions being further strengthened by two
ravelins and horn-works ; on the east, north, and west
sides, are a deep ditch, counterscarp, and covered way
palisadoed; the parapets are pierced for 1 20 cannon ;
the lower fort is connected with the Citadel, and is
chiefly intended to defend the Sound. The entrance is
on the town side, through two gates, of which the second

Like bellowes of a Forge. Then Covin vp doth take
The Giant twixt the grayns ; and, voyding of his hould
(Before his combrous feet he well recouer could)
Pitcht head-long from the hill ; as when a man doth throw
An Axtree, that with sleight deliueid from the toe
Rootes vp the yeelding earth ; so that his violent fall,
Strooke Neptune with such strenth, asshouldred him withall ;
That where the monstrous waues like Mountaines late did

stand,
They leap't out of the place, and left the bared sand
To gaze vpon wide heauen : so great a blowe it gaue.
For which, the conquering Brute, on Corineus braue
This home of land bestow'd, and markt it with his name ;
Of Covin, Cornwall call'd, to hisimmortall fame."

* Carew's Survey of Cornwall.
A 6

12 PLYMOUTH.

is a choice specimen of a bad style. The buildings
within consist of the lieutenant-governor's and other
officers' houses, barracks, hospital, chapel, magazine
and armoury. The centre is adorned with a fine bronze
statue of George the Second, attired as a Roman warrior,
crowned with laurel, and bearing a truncheon in his
extended hand. It was the work of Robert Pitt, and
erected, 1728, at the expense of Louis Dufour, Esq.
an officer of the Citadel. The figure is placed on a
pedestal, ornamented with the royal arms, and inscribed
with a Latin and English dedication. The Latin
inscription ends with the following verse, characteristic
of a great monarch :

PACIS AMAKS RECTIQUE TENAX ARMISQUE TIMENDUS
REX MAGNUS POPULOS QUOS REGIT ILLE BEAT.

The visitor is permitted to walk round the ramparts
under strict injunctions to "keep off the grass,'7 and
other matters of which if he be ignorant, the sentinel
will soon inform him. He will do well, on entering, to
turn up the path on his left, and follow his course round
the eastern half only. This will afford him an inte-
resting view of Catwater harbour, the port of Plymouth,
and other objects not visible from the Hoe. He may
then descend into the parade, and make his exit, as
the continuation of his walk round the western half
of the ramparts will only lead to a repetition of what he
has seen before. This fortification is occupied by the
lieutenant-governor and other officers; and as a station
for troops, a company of which garrisons St. Nicholas'
Island, and is relieved monthly. Descending from the
Citadel, the lower and more ancient part of the town is
approached under a Gate-house, "the only remaining
evidence of Plymouth having been once a walled town."
It is now private property, forming part of the residence
of Captain Wise, R.N. C.B. and entitled Hoe Gate.—
Following the narrow street before us, we find ourselves
in Notte Street, a gloomy thoroughfare, but worthy of

stranger's guide. 13

notice as exhibiting two interesting specimens of that
style of domestic architecture which prevailed in the
reigns of the Charles.

Notte Street, to the right, after entering from Hoe-lane,
leads to that part of the town " where Merchants most
do congregate," viz. Sutton Pool Harbour, Barbican,
and its numerous Quays ; the Custom House, the
Exchange, and other offices connected with the Port, as
hereafter to be described.

To the left hand, Notte Street leads to Sussex Place
and Princess Square, thence, by the New Grammar
School, and St. Andrew's Terrace and Chapel, to the
Royal Hotel — The narrow streets branching north from
Notte Street, lead into the body of the town.

We will suppose that our visitor next desires a glance
at the general aspect of the town internally. It will be
observed, that the principal thoroughfares are irregular
in disposition ; and that Whimple Street, though perhaps
the most bustling of the whole, is the narrowest; here,
however, and in Bedford, Old Town, Treville, and
Buckwell Streets, will be found excellent shops of every
description, some of them exhibiting fronts of chaste
architectural character.

The Market Place occupies three acres of ground, and
may be entered from Cornwall Street, East Street, or
Drake Street. In the large central area (ordinarily
occupied by the carts, &c. of the country venders,) are
held the annual fairs of April and November: the
market days are Monday, Thursday, and Saturday.

The northern part of the Town is chiefly made up
of regular streets of small houses "neat and trimly
dressed," bespeaking respectability and limited means,
and amusingly contrasted with certain exceptions of
earlier date, whose substantial brick fronts and ponderous
cornices are perhaps more akin to the feelings of the
"good old English gentleman." Boon's Place and
Gascoigne Terrace, marked on our plan, occupy a lofty
rear rank overlooking the town, and commanding some
of the scenic beauties beyond.
a 7

14 PLYMOUTH.

In lowly imitation of the great Metropolis, Plymouth
has also her " West End " largely occupied by legal and
medical professors, and a sufficient mingling of classic
intelligence and fashion. Here, around the leading
public buildings, are collected several ranges of excellent
houses recently built, testifying a laudable progression
in the taste of the public, which is certainly more
obviously shewn by the architecture of a town than
by any other symbol of civilization. Any remarks of a
censorious character upon the school of Plymouth art, are,
from self-evident reasons, to be strictly avoided by the
Author of this little work, which he supposes addressed
to such as are capable of judging for themselves, and
which will therefore aspire to nothing more than the
engagement of their attention towards such objects as
may pretend to critical notice. Even in giving the
designer's name, it may happen that some injustice will
follow, in criticising the work to which that name is
attached, without reference to the thwarting difficulties
under which it may have been effected.

Princess Square, as essentially architectural in cha-
racter, deserves the notice of the visitor. It is formed
by four corresponding elevations, the entrance to each
house being furnished with a plain portico of massive
Doric proportions. At the east end of the north range
is the Mechanics' Institute. Princess Square is from
the designs of Mr. Foulston, the first modern architect
of any eminence, who essayed to give a classic tone to
Plymouth. How successful has been that essay, his
followers will honestly avouch, while they gratefully
regard him as a powerful pioneer, who has smoothed
down the ruggedness of the public mind, and left it
readily and generously accessible to their professional
taste and exertions.

The low Doric building, with its bell turret, imme-
diately without the N.W. angle of the Square, is a
School-house designed by Mr. Chappie. ( See Appendix,
Schools.) Sussex Place leading eastward from the S.E.
angle of the Square is now in progress from designs by

STRANGERS GUIDE. 15

the Author of this work, who is also answerable for the
defects of Athenaeum Terrace, (the more eastern of the
two ranges opposite the Crescent.) The Crescent,
(designed by Mr. Hutchins) has the advantage of a large
enclosed garden and private approach between two
octagonal Tuscan Lodges. The general appearance of
Western Plymouth is, in sober truth, strikingly hand-
some, and we may particularly allude to the general
effect of the picture as viewed from the lower extremity
of the Crescent, whence, in grand addition to all the
rest, we have the beautiful perspective of the Athenaeum,
portico, and the proud octastyle of the Theatre. The
streets are hereabout spacious, clean, and therefore
cheerful : well paved with (for the most part) Plymouth
marble, and supplied with the means of being amply
lighted by gas. (See Index.)

Union Street forms, with its Stonehouse-continuation,
a direct line of nearly a mile in length. It is eligible as
an airy and lively situation ; and we have only to regret,
that the circumstances of the case should not have
warranted the erection of continuous and correspondent
ranges of loftier houses on each side. The site afforded
every opportunity for a magnificent street : but the
poetical imaginings of an architect are more rife than the
means for building large-houses, or for paying the rent
necessary to live in them.

PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

Of these, by far the most imposing, is the noble pile
which includes the

Royal Hotel, Assembly Rooms,
and Theatre.

The foundation was laid on the 10th September, 1811,

and the expense of its erection (amounting to £60,000)

a 8

16 PLYMOUTH.

defrayed partly by the institution of a tontine, and partly
from the Corporation funds. The name of Edmund
Lockyer, Esq. the Mayor, is recorded on the foundation
stone, with that of Mr. Foulston, the Architect.

The entrance to the Hotel is under the tetrastyle
portico, near one end of the east front, a similar and
corresponding portico having been designed for the
other. The grand octastyle, in the centre of the principle
(or north) front, leads to the boxes of the Theatre and
the Assembly Rooms. These stately appendages are
of that chastest order, the Ilissus Ionic, though unfor-
tunately not of a material so lasting or beautiful as the
white marble of Pentelicus. The north front extends
270 feet in length, of which the central portico occupies
70 feet, its columns being 30 feet high. The interior
quadrangle is completed by two ranges of coach and
stable buildings facing the south and west, and the
whole occupies an area of nearly an acre.

The Assembly Rooms are approachable either from
the Hotel or north portico. The Tea Room is spacious
and simple, but the Ball Room above is an apartment
of startling magnificence — at least as to design. The
Corinthian beauties of Lysicrates are here exhibited on
an imposing scale ; nor will the spectator fail to notice
the great central and four surrounding chandeliers, the
splendour of which may possibly be enhanced by the
knowledge of their having cost one thousand pounds. —
This noble apartment is nearly eighty feet long, forty in
width, and nearly thirty feet high. On the opposite side
of the staircase Lobby, are commodious Card Rooms, &c.
The public Assemblies take place every alternate, or (as
of late) every third Wednesday during the winter
months — they are invariably supported by distinguished
patronage, and owe much of their attractiveness to the
zeal and attention of Mr. Whiddon, conductor of the
Hotel.

The Theatre is constructed, (as all such buildings ought
to be) with not less regard to the safety than the
accommodation of an audience. The roof and entire

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ATHENAEUM

stranger's guide. 17

frame-work of the boxes are of iron ; and the auditory,
(comprising a pit, two entire circles of boxes, a gallery,
and slips) is of a magnitude fully equal to the purposes
of the " legitimate drama, v — not meaning to exclude the
"pomp and circumstance " that is sometimes attendant
on it. The most conclusive way, perhaps, of describing
the capacity of this Theatre, is simply to state, that, at
the prices of 45. dress circle, 3s. upper ditto, 2s. pit, and
Is. gallery, a receipt of £150 has been acknowledged
by the manager. Mr. R. Brunton, who had conducted
the Plymouth drama for some years, was some time back
succeeded by the late and much lamented Mr. Sandford,
a man of singular moral worth, and a zealous labourer
in too neglected a cause. The Theatre and Hotel are
held under lease granted by the Mayor and Commonalty.
A plan and elevation of the building are adjoined.

The Plymouth Institution, originated in 1812, was,
by its success enabled, in 1818, to commence the
erection of the

Athenaeum,

the foundation stone of which was laid on the 1st of
May in that year, by Henry Woollcombe, Esq. The
works arose under the tasteful and gratuitous superinten-
dence of Mr. Foulston, and on the 4th of February,
1819, the Rev. Robert Lampen opened the new building
with a discourse worthy of the occasion and of himself.*

The portico exhibits four columns of that order most
appropriate to the character of a building devoted to
Literature and Art. It is prostyle in plan, strongly re-
sembling (though an improvement on) the Doric Portico
at Athens, which affords a precedent for the great com-
parative width of the centre inter-columniation. It is
36 feet in length, and measures 37 feet 6 inches from
the ground to the apex of the pediment.

The entrance hall receives a classic character from its

* See Transactions of the Plymouth Institution.
a 9

18 PLYMOUTH.

Doric columns and antse ; and it is further graced by
the lovely presence of the Venus de Medicis, the figure
of a faun, and the athletic form of the fighting gladiator.
Above the hall is the committee-room, or library.

The great hall or lecture room, measuring 36 feet by
30 feet, is fitted with sittings for about 150 individuals.
The president's chair is surmounted by a bust of
Minerva. The more remarkable decorations of the room
are casts from the Apollo Belvidere, the Antinous, the
river god Ilissus, the Theseus, and plaster fac-similes of
the procession and sculptures in the Metopes of the
Parthenon. Behind the lecturer's table, is a door,
leading to the laboratory, offices, and to the museum
above. The latter, by means of purchase and donation, is
constantly increasing, and already contains an interesting
collection of minerals, fossils, birds, insects, shell fish,
savage accoutrements, and miscellaneous curiosities.

A plan and elevation of the building are annexed.

The affairs of the Institution are under the manage-
ment of a president and three vice-presidents, a trea-
surer, secretary, and four curators. The body of the
Society is formed by members, who undertake to lecture,
(and have therefore peculiar privileges,) associates, who
form the greater numerical portion, and young gentlemen
not exceeding the age of 20, admitted under the
nomination of a member- The first subscribe 1 \ guineas,
the second 2, and the third class 1 guinea per annum ;
the lecturing members alone having access to the
library, or a voice in the management. All, however,
are allowed to take part in the discussion which follows
each lecture, and to join in which strangers are also
invited. By the latter is understood, persons not residing
within five miles of Plymouth, who are admitted by appli-
cation to the members. The session always commences
with October, and continues through the five following
months, during which a lecture is given every Thursday
evening, occupying from 7 to 8 o'clock, the two sub-
sequent hours being employed in discussing the argu-
ments advanced. At the close of the season a general

stranger's guide. 19

summary of the proceedings is printed ; and it is the
intention of the society, from time to time, to publish
some of their more important transactions, a handsome
octavo volume of which has already appeared, and may
be obtained at the Institution.

Every two or three years, during about six weeks
of the recess, the Hall and Museum are employed as
exhibition rooms, the former for oil paintings, the latter for
water coloured drawings. Single admission Is. catalogue
6d. season ticket (not transferable) 3s. The latter admits
the bearer to the conversaziones of each Thursday
evening during the exhibition season, when the Hall and
Museum are lighted up with lamps and loveliness, and
harmony insured by the presence of a choice band of
music. The proceeds, after contributing to liquidate
the expenses incurred, enrich the treasury of the Institu-
tion. August is the month of exhibition.

St. Andrew's Chapel,

opposite the S.E. part of the Royal Hotel, merits the
visitor's notice, as exhibiting a front of granite, and an
interior of the chastest Anglo-Greek taste. The pulpit,
gallery-fronts, altar, and candelabra-columns, claim
particular attention. A good organ at the west end,
confronts a large picture of the Crucifixion by the late
Mr. Ball, a native artist, of much feeling for the loftier
efforts of painting. The Chapel was built in 1823, from
designs by Mr. Foulston, and at the joint expense of the
Rev. Robert Lampen, H. Woollcombe, J. Pridham,
and T. Gill, Esquires. It was erected at the cost of
£5000, and affords sittings for 1050 persons, of which
160 are free. An adjoining house has been lately
purchased for the residence of the minister.

Tho Public library,

in Cornwall Street, will next claim the visitor's attention.
This establishment, in concert with the Athenaeum,

20 PLYMOUTH.

attests the intellectual character of, at least, a fair
proportion of the town. It originated chiefly in the
literary zeal of the late George Eastlake, Esq. The
foundation was laid in 1811, and the building duly
completed under the tasteful supervision of Mr. Foulston.
The classic spectator will observe, that the central com-
partment of the exterior is a judicious variation from the
Choragic monument of Thrasyllus, the latter having
only a single pilaster, at each extremity, and a central
anta. On each side of the Lobby are spacious apart-
ments, the one a News-room, the other for the
committee of management, the members of which are
annually elected in January, and comprise a president,
vice-president, treasurer, secretary, registrar, and sixteen
other shareholders. The Library is a carefully studied
specimen of internal architecture, and exhibits a pleasing-
example of the pendentive ceiling, springing from pro-
jecting abutments, pierced with a large circular light,
and crowned with a columniated lantern. The clear
space, from side to side (the room being square) is 33
feet ; and the height to the ceiling of the lantern 30 feet.
The shares, originally valued at 30 guineas each, are
204 in number. An annual subscription of 2 guineas is
contributed, for the general purposes of the Institution,
by every proprietor, who, if he hold more than one,
may nominate on every such additional share, a visitor,
the latter paying 2 guineas annually. Each proprietor
may also introduce one stranger ; and, if he be Mayor
of Plymouth, he is at liberty, together with the president,
to introduce any number of strangers, under certain
restrictions. Ladies and Gentlemen are also admitted
by ballot as annual subscribers either to the library
alone, or to the library and news-room.

At the east end of Cornwall Street, near one of the
Market Gates, is a neat building, comprising, on the
upper story, the Freemasons' Hall, (47ft. 6ins. by 28ft.
6ins.) with adjoining conveniences ; and, on the lower
story, the " Plymouth, Devonport, and Stonehouse,
Commercial Rooms." The building was erected from

stranger's guide. 21

plans by Mr. Adams, the town-surveyor, at a cost of
£2,500; and, in April, 1828, it was formally dedicated
to the order of the Lodge of Fortitude, by Lord Ebrington.
The Commercial Rooms were applied to their present
useful purpose in 1832, and are supported by very
numerous subscribers, who have thus a cheap access to
all the leading London and Provincial papers with
certain select Periodicals.

The annual subscription is 1 guinea for each member,
except in the case of firms, when 1 guinea and a-half is
paid for two partners, 2 guineas for three, and in like
proportion for every additional member of such firms.

Strangers, not resident within fifteen miles, may be
admitted into the rooms by the personal introduction of a
subscriber, who enters in a book kept for that purpose,
their names and places of abode, which entitle them to
have access to the rooms for seven days, after which time
the entry may be once renewed ; but this privilege is
not available to the same individual oftener than once in
every three months.

The rooms are open daily (Sundays excepted, on
which day they are open only from eight to ten in the
evening) from seven in the morning until ten at night ;
but on Saturdays they remain open until eleven o'clock
at night.

To the Market Place we have before alluded ; but we
may here state, in reference to this, as well as to other
important features of the town, (particularly the Royal
Hotel and the Athenaeum,) that very much is due to the
exertions and aid of Edmund Lockyer, Esq.

The stranger will next desire to visit

St. Andrew's Church,

which may suffer somewhat, in his experienced judgment,
from the "too fair report " of local criticism. He will
observe, that, though handsome in parts, the exterior
lacks that most distinguishing of Gothic essentials,
altitude; i. e. as regards the body of the Church. The

22 PLYMOUTH.

tower (containing a fine peal of eight bells) may be
admitted as of good general proportions, and as crowned
by a pinnacled compartment of remarkable beauty : it
is said to have been built in 1440, at the expense of
Mr. Yogge, a Plymouth Merchant. The Church is of
the later pointed style, at least as regards the windows.
In other portions we have other dates. Mention is
made of this Church in a survey ordered by Pope
Nicholas, in 1291. The Organ (an instrument of con-
siderable power) was built 1737; and the altar-piece,
presented by a Mrs. Ilbert in 1742, is rather an evidence
to her liberality than to the judicious taste of its
Palladian designer. The present imposing aspect of the
interior is chiefly owing to the improvements effected in
1826, under Mr. Foulston's superintendence, and at an
expense of nearly £5000. The oak pulpit, stalls, &c.
galleries, and staircase of teak in the tower base, the
porches without, and the granite imitation within, are
the principal features of the new work.

The monument to Dr. Woollcombe, with its group
representing "the Genius of Medicine supporting Indi-
gence/' is by Westmacott. The epitaph was revised by
Canning. The late reverend vicar, John Gandy, is
commemorated by a female figure resting on a medallion
bust. A former vicar of this church, the Rev. T. Mudge,
may be said still to live in one of Chantrey's finest busts.
This exquisite specimen of sculpture was executed from
a picture by Reynolds, and consigned to its most fitting
situation in this church by R. Rosdew, Esq. whose wife
(daughter of Dr. Mudge,) is here also commemorated.
Here are, likewise, monuments to Dr. A. Wilson and
J. Gilbert, (former vicars of St. Andrew's,) Sir J.
Skelton, a loyal adherent to Charles 2nd, and governor
of the Plymouth Citadel ; Dr. James Yonge, physician ;
Mr. Samuel Northcote, father of the celebrated artist;
Captain Lechmere ; Mrs. Lockyer, &c. &c.

The right of presentation (belonging to the Corpora-
tion) was purchased by Mr. Hatchard, the well-known
publisher, and presented to his son, the present vicar,

stranger's guide. 23

who is aided in the very arduous duties of his large and
populous parish, by the Rev. J. H. C. Borwell, M.A.
the lecturer, appointed by the Mayor and Commonalty,
who afford him a salary of £20 per annum ; and also £ 10
per annum to the organist. The vicar is further assisted
by a curate. St. Andrew's Church is furnished with
sittings for 2500 persons, thus distributed : 1 500 in pews,
500 free seats for adults, and 500 free seats for children.
Besides the church yard, there is a burying ground a
little to the north of Princess Square.

Passing from St. Andrew's Church along Whimple
Street, we stumble, as it were, upon the

Guildhall,

of which, as it may not (we hope) long exist, little need
here be said. It is strangely irregular in plan, crowded
and inconvenient in disposition, and wholly indescribable
as to style, unless, indeed, we term it " Gothic " in the
truest sense of the word. It comprises, besides the hall,
(a room 53ft. by 21ft. lately refitted) the several offices
necessary to the transaction of the corporation affairs,
the town prisons, watch house, and apartments for the
town sergeants. The most singular fact to be observed
upon in this unique edifice, is simply this ; viz. that its
date of erection should be so late as 1800 !

Descending Buckwell Street, (from which Howe
Street leads to the Baptist Chapel) and proceeding across
the bottom of Treville Street, a narrow avenue leads to
the Church of Charles' Parish, which wTas separated
from that of St. Andrew in the reign of Charles I. to
whose memory (as a martyr) the church was erected.
It may here be mentioned that, in crossing Treville
Street, the Friends' Meeting House (a plain red brick
building) is seen on the right. On the left of the narrow
street leading to Charles' Church, are the Unitarian and
Independent Chapels, the latter unfinished exteriorly ;
but lately much enlarged, and furnished with a double
range of galleries and new pulpit, from designs by the
Author of this work. The tower and spire of

24 PLYMOUTH.

Charles' Church,

have an agreeable outline ; but otherwise the exterior of
the building can only be described as in the debased
Gothic style of a degenerate period. It was commenced
1 646, but not finished until 1 658. The Saracenic portico
on the south may win a salam from the Mahomedan,
but will be deemed most inappropriate by the Christian
critic. The interior makes an impression of a far more
agreeable character upon the spectator, who will duly
accredit the manner in which Mr. Ball has refurnished
the church with pulpit, pewing, galleries, and a light
Gothic skreen at the western end. The coup d'ail is
pleasing in the extreme. These improvements were
executed in 1828-29, at an expense of about £2400.
The church affords sitting room for 1716 persons, dis-
tributed as follows : — 1096 in Pews, 420 free seats for
adults, and 200 Charity Children.

Among the many monuments, that of the Rev. R.
Hawker, D.D. exhibiting a finely sculptured Bust by
Lege" will claim most particular attention. On the
opposite side of the Chancel is a handsomely sculptured
tablet in commemoration of the late vicar, the Rev. James
Came, D.D. and his Wife, both of^whom were taken off,
within four days of each other, by malignant cholera, at
the time when that awful pestilence so generally prevailed
in 1832.

To the church yard, an additional cemetery has been
lately added close by. The vicar is presented by the
Corporation. Like St. Andrew's, Charles' Parish has also
its assistant Chapel, which the visitor will find at some
distance N.W. of the church. It was first opened for
divine service on the 1st of July, 1829, and contains
sittings for near 1200 persons, of which about 200 are
free to the poor. The designer was Mr. Ball. Cost of
erection, £3914. 155. 6d. defrayed by donations, sale of
pews, and loans from the Rev. S. Courtenay and
Miss Courtenav.

STRANGERS GUIDE. 25

At the north-western extremity of the Plymouth boun-
dary, conspicuous from its elevated site and two cone-
topped turrets, is Eldad Chapel, a large stone edifice of
mixed pointed architecture, erected from Mr. Ball's
designs, at an expense of £4903. lis. 4d. exclusive of
the organ and road-making. To meet this charge, the
subscriptions and donations amounted to £3267; the
remainder was effected by loan. The chapel contains
1500 sittings, of which 200 are free.

Near the northern extremity of Old Town Street is
the Ebenezer Methodist Chapel, erected in 1816, at an
expense of about £5000, and affording accommodation
for 1500 persons. Its situation in a well planted
cemetery, the simple but handsome aspect which cha-
racterise it within and without, its wrought stone front,
and generally substantial appearance, entitle it to
particular mention. Under the vestry is a vault for the
interment of the Wesleyan itinerant ministers of the
Plymouth and Devonport circuits.

In Batter Street, near the Guildhall, is a Presbyterian
Chapel and burial ground. This Chapel is endowed,
and has a School attached.

The Baptist Chapel, to which allusion has been
already made, has been lately enlarged. Other dissenting
Chapels are to be found in various parts of the town :
nor should we omit to mention the Episcopalian Chapel
in the Citadel, and the "Mariner's Church" near the
Barbican, more particularly noticed in the supplementary
• account of Plymouth.

The Custom House

was erected from designs by Mr. Laing, the unfortunate
architect of the Custom House, at London — or rather the
architect of the unfortunate Custom House — for it is not
a feeling of mere humanity, which should prompt us to
speak in alleviation of the mental distress Mr. Laing
must have endured on the failure of his building. His
folio work will still do him credit as regards not only

26 PLYMOUTH.

the architecture and arrangement of his design, but also
in respect to the constructive science displayed. The
more humble specimen of his talent, to which we now
more particularly allude, is yet worthy of the town. Jt
is situate on the Quay of Sutton Pool, and exhibits a
front of granite, suitable, solid, and well proportioned.

The interior is well arranged for business; on the
ground floor are the offices of the principal surveyor,
tide-surveyor, landing- waiter, searcher, &c. A granite
staircase leads to the long-room, a commodious and
spacious apartment for the dispatch of general business,
adjoining which are the collector and comptroller's
offices.

The long-room is in length 52ft. 4ins. by 26 feet wide,
and about 22 high. The building was opened in 1820,
having been erected and fitted up at a cost of about
£8000.

We have already described a greater number of
Buildings than the visitor will care to inspect ; nor can
it be said that any of those hereafter to be mentioned
have other claims to notice, beyond the importance of
their purposes, excepting the

Royal Baths,

which the visitor, in proceeding along Union Street
towards Stonehouse, will observe receding on his left,
exhibiting a centre of two Doric columns in antis, and
certainly proclaiming itself the chief feature of this great
thoroughfare. It was erected at the expense of a Joint
Stock Company, incorporated by Royal Charter, dated
1 3th November, 1 828. The front portion of the building
includes a Subscription News Room, and a Pump Room,
where the newly discovered Spa waters are supplied.*

* These waters are obtained from a rock at a depth of
more than 360 feet, and their medical effects have been highly
approved. They have been analysed by Professors Faraday
and Daniel. Specific gravity at 62 degs. 1013,3. In the Pint
Imperial Measure are contained

stranger's guide. 27

The apartments above are rented to respectable day
occupants. In the rear range of the building are two
swimming salt water baths, 60 feet long and between 20
and 30 feet broad ; eight warm baths either fresh or salt ;
two sulphur or hot air baths ; Harrowgate ditto ; two
vapour baths ; two douche ditto ; three cold plunge
baths ; and shower baths. A reference to the printed
card of the establishment will shew at what a moderate
charge its luxuries are afforded ; and the attention of
the conductors will certainly merit the visitor's notice.
The baths are heated by steam, and supplied by a
reservoir containing near 3000 hogsheads. This reservoir
is connected with the Sound by cast iron pipes of nine
inches diameter, extending in a circuitous line of from
4000 to 5000 feet, and through which a supply of fresh
salt water is afforded daily. The water after use is
conveyed through a tunnel into Mill Bay. The Baths
are open from 6 in the morning until 10 at night in the
summer, and from 7 till 10 in the winter.

Near the Baths, a building is in progress to inclose
the Spa Well, and subsequently to include a more
spacious Pump Room than the one now in use.

Carbonic acid gas 8-100 cubic inches, and 151,66 grains
of dry salts, consisting of

Grains.

Chloride of Sodium 96,64

Muriate of Magnesia 18,68

Muriate of Lime 15,10

Sulphate of Soda. 9,55

Sulphate of Lime 8,94

Carbonate of Lime 2,06

Carbonate of Iron 0,69

151,66

27(a)

The South Devon and East Cornwall Hospital
and Plymouth Public Dispensary,

(Near Sussex Place,)

The remarks upon this Institution, in page 38, were
printed before the commencement of the building,
which is now CMay, 1836,) proceeding rapidly towards
completion — at least as it regards the central part of the
design, which is formed to admit the addition of wings
hereafter.

The portion, now erecting, includes an entrance hall
and waiting-room, with a dispensary and a committee-
room (the latter also for the use of the physicians);
surgeons' room ; a ward on the ground floor ; a theatre
for operations and lectures ; offices and rooms for the
matron and porter in the basement; wards for forty
beds in the two upper floors, on each of which is a
nurse's room, bath room and other conveniences, and a
spacious staircase with flights of stone steps and land-
ings from the basement to the top floor. A portico for
carriages is attached to the centre of the north front,
which exhibits, perhaps, as much architectural decoration
as the purpose of the building admits, and certainly as
much as the funds, at this early period of the Institution,
allow.

The contemplated wings would double the capacity
of the building as to beds, and supply many other
conveniences.

The contractors for the work are Messrs. Chown,
Burgoyne, and Marshall. The ceremony of laying the
foundation stone was preceded by a morning service at
St. Andrew's Church, and an appropriate sermon by
the Rev. S. Itowe. On a brass plate, embedded in the

27 (b) STRANGEll's GUIDE.

footing of the N.E. corner of the building, is the follow-
ing inscription : —

THE FOUNDATION STONE
OF THE

SOUTH DEVON AND EAST CORNWALL HOSPITAL

AND

PLYMOUTH PUBLIC DISPENSARY

WAS LAID ON THE 6th DAY OF AUGUST, 1835,
BY

THE REV. JOHN HATCHARD, M.A.

AT THE REQUEST AND IN THE PRESENCE OF THE

COMMITTEE AND SUBSCRIBERS

IN GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF THE DIVINE FAVOril
THROUGH WHICH THEY HAVE BEEN ENABLED TO BEGIN

THE BUILDING

AND IN HUMBLE RELIANCE UPON THE BLESSING OF GOD ON

THEIR ENDEAVOURS TO CARRY THE CHARITABLE OBJECTS OF

THE INSTITUTION, THUS COMMENCED, INTO FULL EFFECT.

GEORGE WIGHTWICK, Architect.

St. Andrew's Church.

In particularizing certain monuments in page 22, we
should have added, had the event then taken place, the
tomb stone of the celebrated comedian, Charles Mathews,
who, after two months of the most acute suffering,
died at a lodging-house in Lockyer Street, and was
buried in the western vestibule of St. Andrew's Church,
where a simple slab bears the following inscription : —

CHARLES MATHEWS, Comedian,
Born 28th June 1776 : died 28th June 1835.

Many are the visitors who will be interested m the
knowledge of this fact, and who will echo, with sincerity
of feeling, as they look upon this record of the lost
comic master spirit —

" Alas ! poor Yorick ! "

28

IMPROVEMENTS.

During the progress of this work through the press
new lines of houses have begun to arise in several
quarters ; and many other improvements are in prospect.
Among these are a new Guildhall and Prisons, with a
building for Horticultural and other purposes of public
exhibition. The new buildings in Lockyer Street will
greatly improve the approach to the Hoe ; nor can we
too much applaud the spirit of our leading builders, who,
under the supervision of professional aid, are constantly
advancing the architectural pretensions of the town
generally.

20

NOTICE.

The New Corporation Act, passed after the major part
of this work was printed, of course renders inaccurate
(except as a piece of by-gone history) the municipal
statements in pages 29 and 30.

Plymouth is now governed by a Mayor ; twelve
Aldermen ; thirty-six Common Councilmen ; Recorder ;
Town Clerk, &c. The first election under the new Act,
in December 1835, placed Thomas Gill, Esq. in the
Mayor's seat, and C. C. Whiteford, Esq. in the Town
Clerkship, the latter gentleman having for some time
zealously acted as deputy in that situation. The Borough
is divided into six wards, viz. — St. Andrew's, Drake's,
Vintry, Sutton, Frankfort, and Charles. The Magis-
trates now first appointed are as follow : — Thomas Gill.
Esq. Mayor ; J. Collier and T. Bewes, Esqrs. Members
for the Borough ; G. W. Soltau, Esq. G. Coryndon, Esq.
W. Prance, Esq. and J. King, Esq.

4th February, 1836*

SUPPLEMENTAL SUMMARY OF GENERAL
INFORMATION.

Plymouth is in the hundred of Roborough, its component
parishes of St. Andrew's and Charles' being in the deanery of
Plympton, archdeaconry of Totnes, and diocese of Exeter.
The perpetual curacy of St. Budeaux is annexed to the vicarage
o: St. Andrew's. The vicar's income arises from the small
tythes of the parish and the tything of Pennycross, compounded
for by payment of two shillings in the pound on the rack rent ;
from house property ; and from fees for parochial duties. The
A icar of Charles' derives his income from the small tythes of
Compton Gifford, compounded for by payment of two shillings
in the pound on the rack rent ; and from fees for parochial
duties. Service is performed in St. Andrew's Church every
Wednesday and Friday ; the morning service commencing at
half-past ten, and the afternoon ditto at three. On Sunday
there are three services, viz. at half-past ten ; at three ; and at
half-past six. A sermon is preached after the morning service
of Wednesday ; and on all Saint's days and certain fast days
a sermon is delivered. Service is performed in Charles' Church
thrice on Sunday, viz. at half-past ten ; at three ; and at half-past
six : also every Wednesday and Friday, at three in the after-
noon. The annual visitation of the archdeacon is held in
St. Andrew's, where the ceremony of confirmation is also
performed.

The Borough was incorporated under the title of Plymouth
in 1439 • and by successive charters, its government has been
vested in a mayor, twelve aldermen, twenty-four common
councilmen, a recorder, town clerk, chamberlain, coroner,
three sergeants at mace, and a town corporal. The mayor is
annually elected by the freemen on the 17th, and sworn on
the 29th of September. The late mayor, the recorder, and
two senior aldermen are also, with the mayor, justices of the
peace within the borough. The magistrates hold quarter-ses-
sion after the festivals of Lady-day, Midsummer, Michaelmas,
and Christmas, for all offences not capital. A court of record
for the recovery of debts to an unlimited amount is held every
Monday, and the Mayor sits every Monday and Thursday at
the Guildhall, to determine minor offences. The peace of the
town is secured by an efficient day and night police, the
members of which have a regular uniform, as in the metropolis.

30 PLYMOUTH.

The direction of the paving, watching, and lighting is vested
(by an act, passed 12th of April, 1824) in a body of com-
missioners. The borough exerted the elective franchise in the
26th and 33rd of Edw. I. and in the 4th and 7th of Edw. II.
after which it omitted to send representatives to parliament till
the 20th of Henry IV. Since then it has regularly returned two
members. By the act of 2nd of William IV. which extended
the elective franchise to the £10 householders, the number of
voters amounts to 1500. Thomas Bewes, and John Collier,
Esqrs. (who still represent the borough) were the first members
returned under the reform act. The mayor is returning officer.
Plymouth is a polling place for the southern division of the
county.

Plymouth is supplied with water by a rivulet or leat, which
conducts from a source on Dartmoor, twenty-four miles distant,
into a reservoir north of the town, from which main pipes
extend through every inhabited quarter. This good work was
effected pursuant to act of 27th of Elizabeth, by Sir Francis
Drake ; and a contest has been for some time actively carried on
between John Collier, Esq. M.P. and the Corporation, as to the
right of the latter in the property of the water. To comment on
the merits of the arguments advanced by the opposing parties
were a liberty not to be taken by the humble author of this humble
book, who cannot, however, help remarking that they have
involved a decided case of " spirits and water " occasionally
conducive to moral inebriety. Be it as it may, the water has
long been under the conduct of " the mayor and commonalty
of the borough of Plymouth," who lay down and keep in repair
the main pipes* the branch pipes being grafted thereto at the
expense of the housekeepers desiring them.

The annual payment by each house supplied is 16s. and the
corporation derive further income from certain mills and
manufactories that are worked by the leat. The Market is also
a source of considerable means to the corporation. Market
days, Monday , Thursday, and Saturday. Annual fairs in April
and November.

A considerable timber trade is carried on with America, the
Baltic, and Mediterranean ; and an immediate intercourse with
the Mauritius and the West Indies insures a regular supply of
imports on the most advantageous terms. Plymouth is a ware-
housing Port for all articles in tables A, B, C, D, and E, of
the warehousing act ; and is one of the Ports privileged for
the importation and warehousing of tobacco. Here are also
vast importations cf timber, hemp, and tallow, for the supply
of the Royal Dock Yard. The coasting trade is chiefly with
London, Newcastle, Newport (Wales), and Bristol. Great
quantities of manganese are shipped to Scotland, lead to

SUPPLEMENT. 31

Bristol and London, and wool to Hull. Besides many
chartered vessels, there are numerous others (of from 60 to 500
tons) belonging to Plymouth, employed in foreign trade. To
the entire port it may be said that 350 merchantmen belong,
whose combined burden amounts to 30,000 tons. Upwards of
50 decked boats, called Trawlers, supply the markets with fish
of all kinds, whiting, pilchards and hake more particularly
abounding. Large quantities of fish are exported to London,
Bath, &e. The harbours of Plymouth are Sutton Pool and
Catwater. The latter is almost surrounded by the lower part
of the town, and is entered between two piers of solid masonry,
erected by means of parliamentary grant in 1791 and 1799.
Sutton Pool harbour, with certain of the quays and dwelling-
houses, belongs to the Duchy of Cornwall, under which " the
Sutton Pool Company, '' established by act of parliament in
1811, are lessees. This company also hold leases of other
quays, &c. under the corporation of the borough, and are
constantly effecting great improvements in the harbour. In
addition to the old tolls of the Duchy, they have been granted
certain others, for which they are bound to support a harbour
master, to keep the channels clear of mud, to build new quays,
to lay down mooring chains, &c.

At the western pier of the Barbican a great number of
watermen ply for hire in their boats, but as they are not under
particular regulations, persons employing them make the best
bargains they can. The carts, horse-porters, and foot-porters,
that are constantly in attendance on the different quays for
hire, are, however, licensed and registered at the town-clerk's
office, numbered, and placed under such strict rules and
regulations, that in case of misconduct they are deprived of the
privilege of attending the quays, on a proper representation
being made to the magistrates at the Guildhall.

There are several shipwrights' yards, for building and
repairing, within this harbour ; the quays are provided with
cranes, &c. and vessels supplied with town-water at the
Barbican steps.

Catwater, lying south-east of Sutton Pool, forms a capacious
harbour, capable of receiving a thousand sail. The larger class
of merchantmen, and the steam packets are moored here.
From its quays vast quantities of lime stone, raised in the
adjacent quarries of Catdown, Oreston, &c. are being con-
stantly shipped. Here are also several shipwrights' yards.
With respect to the property of this harbour, and the several
persons who have jurisdiction over it, there is some difficulty
in giving an accurate account, as many disputes have arisen
on the subject, and it does not even now seem to be clearly
defined ; but the following is believed to be a correct statement :

32 PLYMOUTH.

The mayor and commonalty of Plymouth, in the annual
visitation of their bounds, direct the charity boys to embark from
Catdown, at a place called the Bear's Head, and to row from
thence in a line to the pier, called the Fisher's Nose ; it is
understood, therefore, that the part thus included is so far
within the jurisdiction of Plymouth, as to claim cognizance of
offences committed there, and for the coroner of the borough
to make inquiry into the cause of the death of persons in that
part of the harbour. The mayor of Saltash possesses a right of
collecting one shilling from all English vessels coming into it,
two shillings from all foreign ships ; and claims likewise the
privilege of his coroner having jurisdiction in a part of the
harbour : it is supposed the lord of the manor of Plympton also
has a right of taking oysters and fishing in the higher part.

Plymouth was, in 1834, constituted a stannary town. The
neighbouring tin and other mines are numerous and productive.
The vicinity also abounds in quarries of granite, slate, and
marble, the latter being highly esteemed for its veining and
susceptibility of polish. The export of granite, &e. is greatly
facilitated by the rail road, which extends a length of 24 miles
from the interior of Dartmoor to the quays of Catwater and
Sutton Pool harbours. By the same means coal, lime, and
manure are carried from the port into the interior. This
important, undertaking was mainly effected through the spirited
exertions of the late Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, in 1818-20, when a
company was formed, and a loan of £18,000 procured from
government.

Near the Custom House (already described in page 25,
Stranger's Guide) is the Exchange, erected in 1813, by
means of £25 shares, the property being held on lease for 999
years. Its affairs are managed by an annually elected com-
mittee, having a chairman, deputy ditto, treasurer, secretary,
and accountant. The building includes a Chamber of Com-
merce, Marine Insurance Office, Steam Packet Office,
Shipping Insurance Office, Reading Room, &c.

The Chamber of Commerce, formed in 1813 to promote
the commercial interests of Plymouth, is directed by a
committee annually elected by ballot. The Earl of Morley,
who has been repeatedly elected chairman, has greatly con-
tributed to the successof the chamber. The Marine Insurance
Office is open daily from ten to four. < During the first nine
months of its formation in 1813, marine property, to the
amount of near £373,000, was insured ; and the punctually
regular and honourable conduct of the managing committee
has been recorded as constituting the strongest hold on public
confidence. The Oil Gas Company have also their office in
the Exchange ; the works are in Exeter Street. The Plymouth,

SUPPLEMENT. 33

Devonport, Portsmouth, and Falmouth Steam Packet
Company was formed in 1822, through the exertions of
J. N. Hawker, Esq. All information connected with the
water communication between Plymouth, Portsmouth, Pal-
mouth, Guernsey, &c. may be obtained between ten and four
at the Exchange. Near the latter is another Steam Packet
Office where inquiries concerning water communication with
London direct, or with Dublin and Belfast, will be answered.

The Excise Office is in Notte Street — Tide-Surveyor's
Office and watch-house in Lower Street. (See Appendix.)

The Post Office (under the admirable conduct of
Mr. Markes) is in Bilbury Street.

mails. arrive. depart.

Cornwall and North Devon, ? ~ ..- ~

via Callington J 6* 45' AM* 7* P'M'

London 7. 15. p.m. 7. a.m.

Cornwall, via Torpoint 7. 0 p.m. 6. a.m.

Bath and Bristol 10. 0 p.m. 5. p.m.

Penny-post messengers are despatched to the following places
at 7. a.m. daily : — Knockersknowle, Jump, Saltash, and
Oreston : also, twice a day, to Stonehouse ; and to Devonport
at 6. a.m. — 3. p.m. and 7. 15. p.m. Receiving Boxes at the
Office, at the Royal Hotel, and in Drake Street, Old Town.

CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.

The Workhouse is situated in a narrow street, leading
south from the tower of St. Andrew's church. The entrance
is into a spacious quadrangle, surrounded by buildings which
constitute the original workhouse ; among these are the room for
divine service, kitchens, and wards for the paupers. The inner
division, subsequently added, contains the infirmary, with
commodious and airy wards for male and female patients, the
dispensary, the Hele and Lanyon charity school, bridewell,
baths, &c.

A new building has been lately added to the south of the
first quadrangle, including a spacious council-chamber, clerk's
office, committee-room, waiting-room for applicants, who have
an entrance from the street, apart from that which leads to the
workhouse. This and several other improvements have been
effected during the active governorship of Capt. Dolling, R N.

This establishment is supported by virtue of four acts of
parliament ; the first of which was passed in 1708, and the
subsequent ones in 1754, 1786, and 1813. The former act

34 PLYMOUTH.

directs, that a body shall be incorporated by the style and
title of the Governor and Guardians of the Poor's Portion in
Plymouth, to consist of fifty -two guardians, out of whom shall
be elected a governor, deputy -governor, treasurer, receiver,
and ten assistants to the governor. Of these guardians the
mayor and recorder of the borough for the time being are
always two ; the remainder are elected, six from the body of
aldermen, and six from the common-council, twenty inhabitants
of the parish of St. Andrew, and eighteen inhabitants of the
parish of Charles. The election takes place on the second
Tuesday in May. Every person who pays at the rate of sixpence
per month towards the maintenance of the poor is qualified to
vote for the persons proposed to be elected.

When the members of this corporation are elected, they
assemble on the same day at the Guildhall, before the mayor
and two aldermen, and proceed to the election, (by ballot) of
their officers.

The guardians, who hold sittings every Tuesday and Friday
in the council-chamber, constitute a court to relieve the
immediate necessities of applicants, and to transact such other
business as may come before them. The out-door poor of St.
Andrew's receive their weekly stipend every Friday, those of
Charles' every Saturday. All paupers maintained in the house,
capable of manual labour, are employed in shoernaking,
spinning, picking oakum, &c.

The master and mistress of the boys and girls' schools
belonging to the corporation, receive their salaries from its
funds ; but the Hele and Lanyon school is a distinct foundation.
The Hospital of Poor's Portion being incorporated, its internal
police is not subject to the direction of a magistrate ; the
governor, as chief officer, possesses the power of committing
offenders to the bridewell, for a period not exceeding seven
days.

The Red Boys' School was established by the will of
Elizeus Hele, Esq. of Wembury, in 1632. There are generally
eight boys on this foundation, who are clothed, maintained,
educated, and afterwards bound as apprentices. The income
arises from various lands in the parishes of Brixton and
Yealmpton,

The Blue Boys' School was founded by Mr. John Lanyon,
a native of the town, who died at Oporto, and left the sum of
two thousand pounds, to be applied in charitable purposes ;
this sum, by what means, or by whose direction is not known,
was applied towards the maintenance, clothing, and education
of boys, who have been, in a great measure, incorporated with
the Hele Charity ; there are usually twelve boys on this
establishment. These charities are obliged, by the terms of the

SUPPLEMENT. 35

deeds for the endowment, to be stationed in the workhouse,
and their management is vested in trustees.

Near the south-west angle of the workhouse is the Orphan's
Aid Hospital, founded by Messrs. Thomas and Nicholas
Sherwill, in 1625, for the reception of orphan cliildien ; in
w|iich about twelve boys are clothed, maintained, and educated.
The funds arise from lands and houses situated in and near the
town. This charity is now administered by a committee of
four aldermen, and two of the common-council, one of whom
superintends, monthly, the care of the boys. The mistress
provides board for the boys, who are instructed in reading,
writing, and arithmetic, by a competent master. The accounts
of this charity have been of late years kept completely distinct
from those of the corporation, and are in a flourishing state.

The Corporation Free Grammar School, west of St.
Andrew's church, was founded in the reign of Kenry VI.
(when John Brock was appointed master, with ten marks per
annum and a lodging over the gateway of the monastery : )
and, in 1572, Queen Elizabeth granted to the corporation the
arrears of a rent charged upon the vicarage, on condition that
they should maintain a lecturer in the parish church with £20
per annum, and a grammar master with a like sum. Two
children of poor Freemen are educated on the foundation.

In St. Andrew's Almshouses twelve widows and a nurse
reside, and are allowed one shilling and ninepence per week by
the warden, who is annually elected out of the common-
council, and has the privilege of appointing persons to fill up
the vacancies that may occur during his year. Allowances
of flour and money are periodically made.

The Workhouse Almshouse is behind the last-mentioned,
and belongs to the governor and guardians of the poor. By
this charity nine aged women are provided with a residence and
a weekly stipend from the rates. The governor for the time
being appoints the inmates.

The Grey School, in Hampton Street, was instituted in
1713, by some of the inhabitants, among whom was Canon
Gilbert, then vicar of St, Andrew's. It is supported by volun-
tary subscription, and the income from sums which have been
left by benefactors. This school affords instruction to 100 boys,
of whom 40 are clothed ; and to 60 girls, of whom 20 are clothed.
The master has a salary of £50 per annum, the mistress £25,
and both have apartments to reside in. Several sums have been
left for raising monies to apprentice out the boys.

The Public School is instituted on the new mode of in-
struction designed by Mr. Lancaster and Dr. Bell, and owes
its rise and support to the meritorious exertions of its subscri-
bers. Upwards of 300 boys and girls are instructed in moral

36 PLYMOUTH.

and religious duties, in reading, writing, and the rudiments of
arithmetic. Members of all societies unite in forwarding its
views, and the utmost concord prevails in its administration. —
A book is kept in the school, in which a subscriber may enter
the names of children proposed, giving a proper description of
their situation, so as to enable the committee to judge of the
ability of the parents to provide education themselves, and to
prevent injury to the private schools. A committee meet on the
first Tuesday in every month, when vacancies are reported and
filled up by the selection of those candidates, who seem to re-
quire the most urgent attention. There are no positive rules to
direct the decision of the committee, who are actuated by a
general impression that the neediest cases should be selected,
without the slightest partiality. When children are selected,
their parents attend with them at the school, and a copy of the
rules, relating to their conduct both in and out of school, is
given to their parents, with a strict charge that it be attended
to ; inquiry is also made whether they be members of the
Church of England, or of any dissenting society : if they belong
to the former, they are instructed in the church catechism and
doctrines, and attend divine service regularly at the church :
but if of the latter, their names are transmitted to the pastor
of that society, requesting him to observe that the child is re-
gular in attendance at public worship, and is instructed in
religious duties. The funds of the school, which arise from
private subscriptions, are about £200 per annum. The master,
a respectable man, has a salary of £70 per annum . The school
is open for the inspection of the public every Tuesday and
Friday, at eleven o'clock in the forenoon. The building is in
a convenient and airy situation, in Cobourg Street.

Charles' Almshouses, at the head of Green Street, built in
1679, by Mr. Lanyon and others, contain 40 persons, nomi-
nated by the governor of the poor, and relieved by weekly
allowance from the parish.

Jory's Almshouses, in Jory Street, were erected in 1703,
by Colonel Jory, a native of the town, for widows of deceased
mariners ; the present trustees under his will appoint the
inmates. Each widow receives an allowance of one pound five
shillings per month, from money arising from the rent of
several houses in the town.

The Household of Faith, in Vermel Street, was erected
out of a fund raised by private subscription and testamentary
bequests. About 180 female children are here educated in re-
ligious duties, in reading, writing, and plain work. It is
maintained by private subscription, and collections occasion-
ally made for it in Charles' church. The late Dr. Hawker was
most active in the establishment of this charity.

SUPPLEMENT. 3?

Behind Sussex Place is a range of New Almshouses, erected
in 1834, pursuant to the will of the late Francis Fox, Esq. for
twelve women above 50 years of age, who have been resident
not less than one year in the borough. The sum bequeathed
amounted to £1200.

Dame Betty Rogers's School is a charity bequeathed by
the will of Lady Rogers, for the education of girls only, who
are clothed, maintained, and so educated as to qualify them
for good household servants. The number at present is forty-
five. The building, which is hired, is situated in an airy situ-
ation, on the Tavistock turnpike-road. The income arises from
money in the funds, and amounts to £300 per annum.

Connected with the Presbyterian chapel is a school for the
clothing and education of 50 girls, instituted in 1785, and
chiefly supported by contributions. The school-house where
the mistress resides adjoins the chapel.

Kelway's Trust. — The Rev. Mr. Kelway left money in the
funds, the interest to be applied to the education of his rela-
tions, whether boys or girls, and to afford a similar benefit to
such poor boys as might be surplus claimants on the Grammar
School. The trustees are the vicars of the two parishes, the
master of the Grammar School, and the lecturer of St.Andrew's
church, who select the boys, always preferring those who are
related to the founder. When the funds admit of it, the boys
are occasionally sent to Oxford, and take holy orders.

There are in Plymouth a Mendicity Society, Female Bene-
volent Society, Blanket Society, Provident Society, Female
Penitentiary, Female Orphan Asylum, several Bible Societies,
Tract ditto, Societies for promoting Christianity, Auxiliary
Missionary Societies, and Sunday Schools connected with
almost every place of worship in the town.

As intimately connected with the well-being of the poor, we
may here allude to Mr. Gill's Chapel on the Hoe, already
mentioned, (Introductory Sketch, page9) and to the Mariners'
Church, in the establishment of which the Rev. John
Hatchard, Vicar of St. Andrew's^ successfully exerted himself
some time back with his usual pious zeal. To the important
end of supplying the religious wants of the sailors, fishermen,
&c. of the port, he took the lease of a large store-room in the
vicinity of the quays, and fitted it up for the accommodation of
500 persons. It was opened by license of the Bishop in
February, 1832, and has continued to be thus sacredly employed
under the vicar's personal care, and by the aid of voluntary
contribution.

The Public Dispensary is in Catherine Street, near the
workhouse. It originated in 1798 ; but the present building

38 PLYMOUTH,

was not erected until 1807. A marble tablet in the committee
room records a bequest of £100Q by the late Charles Yonge,
Esq. (an eminent medical practitioner in the town) which was
preserved entire to the institution by the Rev. Duke Yonge,
who paid the legacy duty amounting to £100. Another tablet
commemorates the late William Woollcombe, Esq. M.D. one
of the earliest and most zealous patrons of the Dispensary. It
is governed by a president, vice-president, treasurer, secietary,
and a committee, annually chosen. Two physicians, eight
surgeons, and two surgeon-dentists attend gratuitously, and
the poor are visited at their own houses as occasion may require.
An apothecary attends daily (Sundays excepted) at a salary
of £50 per annum ; and there is also a resident matron with
£10. lQs. per annum, and apartments rent free. It is supported
by voluntary contribution, and the number of patients admitted
from the lime of its establishment to Christmas, 1834, amounted
*o about 40,000

The Eye Infirmary, in Westwell Street, originated with
Dr. J . Butter, F.R.S. and Dr. E, Moore, who, in 1821, set forth
the necessity of the institution so strongly as immediately to
induce subscriptions to a considerable amount. It is supported
entirely by voluntary contributions, and patients are admitted
by the subscribers' recommendations. In-patients are expected
to contribute 3s. 6d. per week from their respective parishes,
and to bring a change of linen. The institution is governed
by a patron, vice-patron, and patroness ; a president, vice-
president, and treasurer, (the last three annually elected) and a
committee annually chosen. The medical directors consist
of one physician, two resident surgeons, and one corresponding
surgeon. Their services, together with those of the treasurer
and secretary, are gratuitous, the dispenser receiving a salary
of £25 per annum. During thirteen years from the foundation
near 70QO patients, have been assisted, and the committee, in
their report for 1834, express themselves as looking forward to
the erection of a building more suitable to the institution than
the small house now rented for its purposes.

The " South Devon and East Cornwall Hospital "
will, it is confidently expected, soon arise as the leading medical
and surgical asylum in this part of the country. The court of
governors of the "Plymouth Public Dispensary," encouraged
by the liberal donations already made, and their rapidly
increasing subscription list, have purchased a piece of ground
adjoining Sussex Place, Princess Square, as the most eligible
site for a building to answer the joint purposes of the existing
Dispensary, and a general Hospital for in-patients. The pro-
jectors* adverting to the fact that there is no such establishment

SUPPLEMENT. 39

nearer to Plymouth than that of Barnstaple on the north,
of Exeter on the east, and of Truro on the west, naturally look
for contributions and subscriptions from the numerous inter-
vening towns and parishes ; and the measures towards this
great good are now in such active operation as to leave no
doubt that it will be speedily and liberally effected.

Banking Houses.— Branch Bank of England, St. Andrew's
Terrace. — Naval Bank, (Harris, Rosdew, Harris, and Co.)
near the Guildhall, in Whimple Street. — Devon and Cornwall
Banking Company, Bedford Street.

In addition to the literary and scientific institutions noticed
in the former part of this work, viz, the Public Library and
Athersum, is the Mechanic's Institute, first established
in 1825. The building in Princess Square was opened in
December, 1827, when Dr. Cookworthy delivered an introduc-
tory paper worthy of his acknowledged character for sterling
argument and eloquent perspicuity. £100 was presented to
this society by T. Greaves, Esq. The institution consists of
about 130 members who are admitted to all the privileges of
the society by quarterly payments of 3s. 3d. The Library is
open on Tuesday and Friday from 8 to 10 in the evening, and
contains about 1000 volumes* Lectures are regularly delivered
on Wednesdays from November to April inclusive. Strangers
are admitted by payment of Is. per lecture. Several classes
(as Chemical, French, Drawing Classes, &c.) meet here for
mutual improvement.

The Medical Sootety, instituted 25th April, 1794, Consists
of fifteen subscribers, elected by ballot as vacancies occur, and
of fifteen or more associates. It is supported by subscriptions
from the members and associates, the latter having no right in
the property, nor voice in its management. Its object embraces
the entire field of medical literature, and the library contains
upwards of 700 volumes. This society originated with Samuel
Fuge, Esq. a retired practitioner of Plymouth.

The Law Library was established 13th June, 1815. Its
members consist exclusively of professional gentlemen prac-
tising as barristers or attorneys. They are elected by ballot
and must either be proprietors of, or subscribers to, the Public.
Library. The officers, consisting of a president, treasurer,
secretary, and committee of seven, are annually elected in
October. The books (now amounting to 600) are deposited
in the Public Library, and are open to the reference of any
proprietor of that library, though he be not of the legal
profession.

Two Newspapers are issued weekly in Plymouth, viz. " The
Plymouth, Devonport, and Stonehouse Herald," published

b 2

40

PLYMOUTH.

on Saturday, by Nettleton and Co. of Whimple Street,*
and the "Plymouth and Devonport Weekly Journal," pub-
lished on Thursday, by Mr. W. E. Gill, 63, Old Town Street.
There are also three Devonport, and several Exeter papers
which include " Plymouth " in their title. " The South
Devon Monthly Museum " is a respectably conducted and
interesting periodical, published by Mr. G. Hearder, in
Buckwell Street. The " West Devon and Cornwall Flora,"
by the Rev. J. Jacob, LL.D. is just advertised as about to
appear in monthly numbers.

It remains for us to notice the Riding School, just erected by
Mr. Elliot, in Frankfort Lane ; an establishment that has long
been wanted, and will, no doubt, meet with encouragement. —
It is also in contemplation to erect a spacious mews, to com-
bine all necessary conveniences for horses and carriages, with
rooms for the transaction of business connected with the turf,
a forge, surgery, &c. The originators of this scheme were
Edmund Pym and E. Gabriel, Esqrs.

The Racks originated at a rustic fete held in 1827, on a
marsh near Crabtree, when the meniment of pony and donkey
racing, pole climbing, and jumping in sacks, led to results
more important ; as, shortly after, a meeting convened by
public advertisement was held at the Royal Hotel, (the F^arl of
Morley in the chair,) and the Plymouth, Devonport, and
Cornwall Races were established. It was then decided that
they should in future take place on Chelson Meadow, situated
on the other side of the Laira, about a mile and a quarter from
Plymouth. A temporary course was prepared for 1828, since
which the present course has been made at au expense of
between 400 and £500. It is a mile and a half in circumference,
nearly of an oval figure, and quite flat. In 1829 the grand
stand was built, combining the ladies' stand, the betting stand
over, retiring rooms behind, and a spacious hall for refreshments
below. In 1828, through the interest of the noble chairman,
the gracious donation of a gold cup, value 100 guineas, was
granted by His Majesty, as Lord High Steward of Plymouth,
and has since been annually continued. In 1831, when His
Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex was chosen Lord High
Steward (on His Majesty's resigning that office,) he gave a
plate of 50 sovereigns, which also is annually contributed.
Resides these, a larger amount of public money is here ran for
than at any other meeting in the kingdom. Plymouth gives a
plate of 100 sovereigns, Devonport and Stonehouse lOOsover-

* The Plymouth "Herald" is, in fart, published on Friday
evening, though bearing Saturday's date.

SUPPLEMENT. 41

eigns, the ladies 50 sovereigns, the officers of the united service
50 sovereigns, amounting, with minor sums added to different
stakes, to between 400 and £500. The great attraction of the
meeting, however, is the Saltram stakes of 25 sovereigns each,
which have gradually increased from sixteen subscribers (with
which it commenced) to sixty-two, and its average value is from
300 to 500 guineas. Two stewards officiate annually, one of
whom is chosen from Cornwall, and theotherfrom Devonshire.
.Race Balls take place at Whiddon's Royal Hotel. In 1830
the races received important additional support from the
institution of "The Royal Plymouth, Devonport, and Corn-
wall Race Association" of which His Majesty is patron, the
Duke of Sussex, vice-patron, the Duke of Bedford, Earl of
Morley, Lord Valletort and Lord Eliot, vice-presidents,
C* Harris, Esq. treasurer, E. N. Gabriel, Esq. secretary, and
one hundred and seventy of the sporting characters of the two
counties are members, at the annual subscription of one
sovereign. This meeting is generally held the first week in
August, and continues three days. The Plymouth and
Devonport Spring Races were established in 1831, and are
principally for hunters ; the principal race is for the Lyneham
stakes, after which there is a hurdle race.

This information has been most obligingly afforded by
E. N. Gabriel, Esq. clerk of the course.

The inhabitants of the three towns also derive great amuse-
ment from the Regatta, which takes place annually on or
about the last Wednesday in July, and is most advantageously
viewed from the summit and declivities of the Hoe. It were
ungallant to question whether the yachts on the sea, or the
ladies on land, contribute most to the attractiveness of the day »
Certain it is, however, that the mere scene, independently of
its great nautical interest, proves highly entertaining.

The Royal Western Yacht Club (English division) consists
of subscribing and honorary members, elected by ballot, (one
black ball in seven to exclude.) Themanagementisvestedina
commodore, vice-ditto, twelve presidents, twenty-four vice-
ditto, and a committee of twenty-six. The members pay one
guinea annually. Officers of the army and navy in actual
service are admissable as honorary members, but no other
persons within ten miles of Plymouth are eligible. The mem-
bers of this club have the privilege of entering certain foreign
ports free of port charges.

To entitle members keeping yachts to all the privileges of the
club, they must hold a commission, signed by a president and
chairman of the council, and countersigned by the treasurer
and secretary, which may be had on payment of the following
fees, b 3

42 PLYMOUTH.

First Year. Annually.

Under 15 tons £2 2 £11

15 to 30 tons 3 3 2 2

Above 30 tons 4 4 3 3

Members of the yacht squadron, or of any royal yacht
club, having the privileges of the yacht squadron, may be
admitted members of the club and receive the commission, on
paying one guinea annually, but their yachts are not exempt
from entrance fees at the Plymouth Regatta.

The yachts of the Irish division are under the direction of the
English commodore, when on the coast of England, and yachts
of the English division under that of the Irish commodore,
when on the coast of Ireland. The signal flags in both
divisions are the same.

An annual general meeting of the members is held at the
Club-room on the second Tuesday in April, to elect the
council, and transact other business.

Stated meetings of the council are held at the club-room on
the last Tuesday in January, the last Tuesday in April, the
last Tuesday in June, and the last Tuesday in October. There
are also special meetings. The sailing at the regatta is
managed by a committee of nine. The members of the club
have dress and undress uniforms, andeach yacht has established
flags and signals. A club dinner takes place on the day after
the regatta, and a ball is annually held in aid of the funds.

The Royal Devon and Cornwall Botanical and
Horticultural Society was established in the year 1830,
for promoting the study and practice of botany and horticulture,
and for improving the condition of the humble cottager and
industrious labourer, by the distribution of prizes. Three
exhibitions take place in the year, viz. in May at the Royal
Hotel, Plymouth ; in July at the Town Hall, Devonport ; and
in September at Plymouth again.

The society consists of fellows, cottage subscribers, honorary
and corresponding members. The fellows are divided into two
classes, the first comprising subscribers of one guinea or more
per annum ; the second consisting of gentlemen's gardeners,
market or jobbing gardeners, and other persons whose annual
subscription amounts to the sum of ten shillings and sixpence.
Both these classes are eligible to sit on committees, to be
judges of prizes, and to have a voice in the affairs of the society.

The cottage subscribers consist exclusively of agricultural
and other labourers, whose wages do not exceed 15s. per
week, and who occupy houses, the rent of which does not
exceed £15 per annum. They pay 2s. 6d. per annum, and
are only admitted with the consent of the major part of the

SUPPLEMENT. 43

committee present. They are privileged to compete for all
prizes assigned to the fellows (who, however, are not suffered
to compete for prizes with them) ; but are not entitled to any
interest in the property of the society, nor are they eligible to
seats in the committee, nor to any other office.

Honorary members consist of such persons as the fellows
think proper to elect, whether for their rank in society, their
celebrity as botanists or horticulturists, or in any other
department of science,

Contributors of ten guineas and upwards, at one time, are
considered presidents and fellows for life of the first class,
enjoying all the advantages of annual subscribers of one guinea >
and for every additional ten guineas are entitled to an increased
number of tickets of admission to the exhibitions in an adequate
proportion to their donations. The presidents, vice-presidents,
secretaries, treasurer, and a committee of twenty -four, are
elected annually on the first Tuesday in February. The com-
mittee meet for the ordinary dispatch of business on the first
Tuesday in every month.

Any person desirous of becoming a member, must be pro-
posed and seconded by members of the society at any meeting
of the committee, and balloted for at a succeeding meeting,
provided there shall at that time be seven members present.
Should the requisite number not be present, the chairman is
empowered to call a special meeting for that particular object.
The judges are at least twelve in number, viz. : — three for
fruits ; three for flowers ; three for vegetables ; and three for
cottagers' prizes ; and are selected for their peculiar acquaintance
with the objects on which they are to decide. Their decision
is final.

Each subscriber of the first class is entitled to three trans-
ferable tickets for every guinea of annual subscription, (together
with a ticket for a cottage visitor, admitting the bearer at the
hours of the shilling admission, but not entitling him to be a
competitor for prizes); each subscriber of the second class to
two ; and each subscriber of the cottagers' class to one
transferable ticket.

Fellows of the first and second classes, with their friends,
are admitted to the exhibition one hour before the doors are
opened to the public generally.

Admittance by checks, at 2s. 6d. each, is allowed from one
to four o'clock in the afternoon ; and by checks at Is. each,
from that hour to the close of the exhibition at five. The
representatives of the counties of Devon and Cornwall in
Parliament are honorary members ; also the officers for the
time being of the Plymouth Institution -} and the officers for the

44 PLYMOUTH.

time being of the Devon and Exeter, North Devon, and Royal
Cornwall Botanical and Horticultural Societies.

HISTORIC SKETCH.

Whether Plymouth occupies the site of the ancient Tameor-
iverthe has not been yet positively determined. If, however,
it had attained any consequence before the conquest, it sub-
sequently lost it ; since, according to Lel.md, it was in the time
of Henry II. a "mean habitation for fishers." It was
formerly called Sutton, or South Town, and comprised the three
divisions of Sutton Ralph, Sutton Prior, and Sutton Valletort.
Ralph was the name of the first Prior of Plympton, appointed
1 121, and Walter de Valle-Torta was among the benefactors
of that priory, whence it would seem that this now important
place was, at that time, dependent on the once important
Abbey of Plympton. It appears from a record in the time of
Richard II. that it was occasionally called " Plymouth ;" and,
in the latter part of the reign of Henry IV. it is spoken of as
11 Sutton, otherwise Plymouth." In 1253, Henry III. granted
the Prior of Plympton a market and fair, with a right of
holding weekly courts, and assize of bread and beer, view of
frank pledge, and power to inflict the punishments of the
pillory and ducking-stool. Members were first sent to parlia-
ment in the time of Edward I. ; but this privilege seems to
have been suspended during the reign of Edward II. nor was
it resumed until after the accession of Henry VI. Plymouth
was, at an early period, a place of occasional rendezvous for
the British Navy. From hence the Black Prince sailed on his
expedition in 3355, and here he disembarked with his Royal
prisoner, the King of France.

The French effected a landing here in the course of this
reign, but were driven back to their ships by Courtenay, Earl
of Devonshire. After various other attempts, they landed in
the reign of Henry IV. and burnt 600 houses ; but, failing to
reduce the castle, they retreated, and proceeded to Dartmouth
where several hundred of them were made prisoners. In the
reign of Henry VI. the Prior of Plympton, by granting liberal
leases, induced a motive for building and residence greatly
eondusive to the improvement of the port.

A petition, dated 1411, urges the necessity of fortifications ;
but the measure was not acceded to till 1439, when, "among
other privileges, the inhabitants had the grant of a toll on all
merchandize'* to enable them to execute the work; and it is

SUPPLEMENT. 45

doubtless, to these fortifications Leland alludes, when he says,
M the mouth of the gulph where the ships of Plymouth lie,
is walled on each side and chained over in time of necessity.
On the S.W. side of the mouth is a blockhouse ; and, on a
rocky hill hard by it is a strong castle quadrate, having at each
corner a great round tower." A map in the British Museum,
taken in the reign of Henry VIII. exactly corresponds with
this description.

By the Act of 1439, in pursuance of which the town was
fortified, it was also incorporated under the name of Plymouth,
the manor of Sutton Prior with alt its rights, &c. being settled
on the corporation, with a reserved annual rent of £40 payable
to the Prior of Plympton, and an annuity of ten marks to the
Abbot of Bath. After the dissolution of monasteries, the
advowson and tithes of Plymouth church, which had hitherto
belonged to the monks of Plympton, were vested in the body
corporate. In 1512, an Act was passed for enlarging and
strengthening the fortifications; and to all who contributed to
this work.. Bishop Lacy granted a liberal indulgence. In 1531,
the tin miners were prohibited from working in the neighbour-
hood of any river communicating with the sea at Plymouth,
inasmuch as it had occasioned an accumulation of sand at the
mouth of the harbour, and had proved detrimental to the
fresh water used by the inhabitants. In the 27th of Queen
Elizabeth, the renowned Sir Francis Drake obtained an act for
bringing a stream of water from Dartmoor into t e town, as
more pa'ticularly alluded to in page 30 of this work. In 1579
and 1581 the plague raged in Plymouth with gieat violence.
In 1588 the British Fleet (to which Plymouth contributed
seven ships) rendezvoused in the Sound under the command of
Sir F. Drake, Lord Howard, and Sir John Hawkins. The
issue of the contest between the British and the Invincible
armadas is too well known to need further comment. As the
comic song has it,

"Our Admiral drake
He made them all duck,"

and the positive intentions of Don Whiskerandos Medina,
comfortably to possess himself of Mount Edgcumhe as his
"island home," were not quite so "positive" as the broadsides
of the British Commander.

In 1596, the British Fleet again assembled at Plymouth,
prior to its successful expedition against Cadiz, under the joint
command of the Earls of Essex and Nottingham, Lord
Howard being the vice, and Sir Walter Raleigh the rear
admiral. It was also from hence that the Earl of Essex
sailed on his unfortunate expedition to Ireland.

46 PLYMOUTH.

In 1625, Charles I. with his entire court, and 6000 troops
arrived here from Portsmouth, and the monarch and his suite
were sumptuously entertained by the mayor and commonalty.
But "change makes change;" and in 1643, Plymouth was
distinguished by its gallant resistance to the royalists com-
manded by Prince Maurice and Col. Digby, who where
compelled to withdraw their forces after a siege of more than
three months. In 1644, the royalists under Sir R. Grenville
again made several unsuccessful attacks, and Prince Maurice
only repeated his attempts to give additional proof to the
impregnability of the town. Grenville v/as subsequently left
to make the experiment of a blockade ; but in this he was
thwarted by the timely arrival of his opponent, the Earl of
Essex. Aided by the " King's name " — that " tow'r of
strength " the royalists were yet unable to effect the subjugation
of Plymouth, and Charles left Sir. R. Grenville to the direction
of a second blockade. This was continued from Sept. 14th,
1644, to January 10th, 1646, when, after several ineffectual
assaults, the spirited inhabitants were left in quiet possession
of the important post they had so bravely defended. Some of
the military works at this time erected are still perceptible
around the town. It appears that the town, however attached
to the parliamentary cause, was not without sympathy for the
unfortunate monarch whom they had opposed, as their new
church, the erection of which had been interrupted by the
civil wars, was, on its completion, dedicated to Charles.

After the restoration the present citadel was erected, and
surveyed by Charles II. who visited Plymouth in 1670 and
1676. In 1683, the corporation charter was surrendered to
the King on the requisition of Judge Jeffries, and a new one
obtained at a great expense, vesting the government of the town
in ten aldermen and twelve assistants. In 1697, the old
charter was re-obtained.

The first lighthouse on the Eddystone was erected in 1696,
by Mr. H. Winstanley, who perished with the building during
a furious tempest in November, 1703. A second lighthouse
constructed in 1706-1709 by Mr. Rudyerd, was destroyed by
accidental fire, December 2nd, 1755 ; and on June 1st, 1757,
the first stone of the present lighthouse was laid. It was
completed August 24th, 1759. In 1782, Lord Boringdon (now
Earl of Morley ) was honoured with the presence of George III.
at Saltram ; and in 1789, that monarch, with his queen and
several members of the royal family, visited the Dock-Yard.

Among the principal occurrences since the dawn of the 19th
century, as connected with the history of Plymouth, may be
mentioned the commencement of the Breakwater, August 12th,

SUPPLEMENT. 47

1812 ; and the erection of the Royal Hotel and Theatre in
1813. The year 1815 is rendered memorable in our annals by
the appearance of H.M.S. Bellerophon, having on board
the ex-Emperor of France, Napoleon le Grand ! His exile
being determined on, he was conveyed to the island of St.
Helena on board the Northumberland. An interesting picture of
Napoleon, as he then appeared gazing from the gangway on
the thousands of spectators who daily assembled round the
Bellerophon, was painted by C. L. Eastlake Esq. R.A. and
now hangs in the Hall of Heanton Satchville, in Devon, the
seat of Lord Clinton. In August, 1824, the foundation stone
of Lary Bridge was laid ; and in the November of the same
year occurred a furious hurricane, which greatly damaged the
Breakwater, and occasioned a frightful loss of life and property
in the Sound and Catwater harbour — many vessels were
wrecked, and the lower part of the town was flooded to a con-
siderable depth. In 1826, Chelson Meadow, (which had
been recovered from the sea by an embankment raised by the
Earl of Morley,) was established as the course for the
Plymouth and Devonport Races. The year 1828 was dis-
tinguished by a visit from his present Majesty William IV.
(then Duke of Clarence) who attended the Athenaeum, when
W. S. Harris, Esq. had the honour of delivering a paper
illustrating the advantages of his newly-invented lightning
conductors as applied to the preservation of ships. In the
same year the contemptible Miguel of Portugal darkened the
town with his presence ; and, in 1830, three thousand adherents
to the legitimate cause of his brother Don Pedro took refuge
here.

On the 16th of May, 1832, the Hoe became the scene of an
immense public assemblage, uniting the reformers of the three
towns, who met to petition the House of Commons "to with-
hold its confidence and the public supplies from any minister
who might not support unmutilated and unimpaired" the
measure of parliamentary reform. This meeting was occasioned
by the resignation of Earl Grey on the second defeat of his
measures in the House of Lords.

On the 27th of June following, the reformers of the three
towns again united, to celebrate by a triumphal procession the
passing of the Reform Bill.

In the autumn of 1832, Plymouth, with its neighbouring
towns, and the Kingdom in general, was severally visited by
the Cholera. The total number of cases reported within the
borough, was 1805 — number of deaths 702. On Wednesday,
10th October, (the pestilence having disappeared) the churches
and chapels were open for a public thanksgiving. In Stone-
house there were 286 cases, and 132 deaths ; in Devonport 408
cases, and 197 deaths,

48 PLYMOUTH.

On the lith of December, 1832, Messrs. Bewes and Collier
were elected the first members for the borough under the
Reform Act. The election was uncontested. Their prede-
cessors in parliament were Sir T. B. Martin and Sir George
Cockburn.

In August, 1833 Plymouth was honoured by the presence of
Her R.H. the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria,
who, after landing at the Dock Yard, Devonport, proceeded
to VVhiddon's Royal Hotel, where a loyal address was presented
to them by the mayor and commonalty. During the visit of
their Royal Highnesses, the 89th regiment was presented with
new colours by the Princess Victoria, and the troops were
inspected by Lord Hill, commander of H.M. forces.

During the month of January, 1835, the town was in a
considerable state of excitement, caused by the re-appearance
of Sir George Cockburn, (by proxy, in the person of his
brother Sir James) as the tory candidate, to represent the
borough of Plymouth. The contest was carried on with great
warmth, and concluded with the re-election of Thomas Bewes
and John Collier, Esqrs. staunch adherents to the reform
interest.

STONEIIOUSE.

STRANGER'S GUIDE.

Inns.

Hale's Brunswick Hotel, near the Bridge Gate, affords
excellent accommodation, both as to house and stabling.
The establishment is conducted in a most respectable
and satisfactory manner. The Prince George, Crown
Inn, on the Quay, and the Buckingham Arms, in Edg-
cumbe Street, afford accommodation for strangers.

Lodging Houses.

These are chiefly in Union Street, and on the east
side of Durnford Street. In the latter are also some re-
spectable Boarding-Houses.

The first object that may arrest the stranger's attention
in passing from Plymouth into Stonehouse is the estab-
lishment of the

United Gas Company,

at Mill-Bay, whence the three towns are supplied, and
by which a direct line of nearly four miles, from the
eastern turnpike-gate at Plymouth, to the gate of the
dock-yard at Devonport, is illumined. The gasometers,
three in number, are discernible to every passenger by
the new road from Plymouth over the marshes ; and per-
mission to view the works is readily granted.

The principal streets in Stonehouse are those forming
and a rectilinear continuation of Union Street, Plymouth,
the united thoroughfare of Chapel Street and Durnford

50 STOREHOUSE.

Street, extending at a right angle from the west end
of the former, towards the Sound on the south. The
shops will chiefly be found in Edgcumbe and Chapel
Streets. The older part of the town lies to the north,
which includes the Royal Naval Hospital. The southern
part is constantly increasing, particularly in the neigh-
bourhood of Durnford Street, Emma Place, &c. which
are almost entirely occupied by genteel families, chiefly
those of naval and military officers, and other persons
holding situations under the government.

St. George's Parochial Chapel,

In Chapel Street, is externally an unadorned stone build-
ing, with a disproportioned tower, and presents no
display of architectural taste. The interior is fitted up
in a neat style, with commodious galleries on three sides,
a singing gallery, and an organ. The incumbent, who is
a perpetual curate, is appointed by the vicar of St.
Andrew's Plymouth, which is the mother church. —
The present chapel was erected in 1789, and is sur-
rounded by the burying-ground.

At the south end of Durnford Street is

St. Paul's Chapel,

An edifice in the earliest Pointed Style, first opened
for divine service on the 5th July, 1831. It was erected
from designs by Mr. Foulston, (the tender for its execution
amounting to £2630,) and affords seats for nearly
1100 persons, of which the greater number are free.
The architect's means were limited as to internal
decoration ; but the building taken altogether, and
particularly as regards the exterior (in any point of
view), holds out a confident challenge to criticism. The
minister of St. Paul's is appointed by the incumbent of
the parish of Stonehouse. It will be observed that the
Chapel, and several handsome houses to the west, form
part of an extended scheme in progress, the realization

stranger's guide. 51

of which is in no mean degree dependent on ..the fasci-
nating character of the water scenery in the immediate
vicinity. To this we have already alluded in our intro-
ductory remarks, and shall again take occasion to do so
in describing the Victualling-Office.

The other places of worship are the Established Cha-
pel, in the Royal Naval Hospital; the Roman Catholic
Chapel, in Pearl Street ; the Independent Calvinist
Chapel, in Barrack Street; the Methodist Chapel, in
Edgcumbe Street; and the Ebenezer Baptist Chapel, in
Union Street.

The Royal Marine Barracks

are situated at the back of Durnford Street, on the
western shore of Mill-bay, where a convenient landing-
place is constructed. The buildings form an oblong
square ; in front, on entering, are the apartments for the
privates — those of the officers are on two of the sides.
On the west side are the entrance gates, and a newly-
erected guard-house. The barracks are regularly and
handsomely built, have a hospital, and will accommodate
nearly 1000 men. The mess apartments are spacious
and well furnished, and the officers have a very good
library.

The Marine Band is justly noted as of more than
common excellence, and forms a source of genuine
delight to the inhabitants of the vicinity, who daily
assemble within the parade to enjoy the performances
which take place at certain stated hours.

The Long Room Barracks, of which former guide-
books speak, have recently been dismantled, and the
materials sold. The mess room, with its offices, a
substantial building, remains. It was formerly (before
its purchase by government) an assembly room, and is
a spacious apartment with a painted ceiling.

We are now in the immediate neighbourhood of the
great lion of Stonehouse,

c 2

52 S10NEH0USE.

"The Royal William Victualling Yard,"

which lies at a short distance to the S.W. of St. Paul's
chapel. The visitor's attention will first be arrested by
the grand

Entrance Gate,

with its lofty central arch and lateral passage ways, its
emblematical sculptures and crowning pedestal, sur-
mounted by the statue of His Majesty William the
Fourth. The two opposing colonnades, extending in-
ward, will next command admiration ; nor can we but
anticipate the acknowledgment, that, as a piece of
sterling architecture, taken altogether, it forms a Pro-
pylceum worthy of the noble establishment to which it
leads. With the exception of the statue (which is of
Portland stone) the whole building is of beautiful
granite ; and as specimens of the extreme nicety to
which this material can be worked, the ox's heads over
the piers, and, more particularly, the cables and anchors
over the lateral doors may be mentioned. It will be
observed, that the shafts of the columns forming the
internal avenue, are each of one stone. The leading
dimensions are as follow: —

Feet Ins.

Height of central opening 25 2

Width of ditto 14 6

Height to top of blocking course over ? q« in

cornice 5

Height of pedestal 12 0

Height of figure 13 6

Total height to crown of statue 62 4

Entire extent of front 63 6

Entire depth from outer front of arch to ~)

outer angles of the two buildings at 5- 119 0

ends of colonnades J

Height of columns within 13 0

After passing the gateway, we see at a short distance
to the left, the neat granite-fronted residences of the two

E

3

Zzm^EEmE^--

_Ma^on' o/tJit (-ale JTa),

STOREHOUSE .

STRANGER S GUIDE. 53

principal resident officers. Immediately on the right is
the baking establishment, comprising a quadrangular
range of buildings 250 feet by 200 feet, inclosing an
architectural chimney shaft of granite 150 feet high.
Further on is the Melville quadrangle, 240 feet square,
with its rusticated granite archway, (27ft. 9ins. high and
15ft. 6ins. broad) and clock-chamber of the same material,
making altogether an elevation of 95ft. Gins, and forming
a magnificent centre piece 61 feet wide. Opposite this
is the bason 250 by 200, surrounded by quays of granite,
save where an iron swing bridge vaults over a 45 feet
opening into Stonehouse Pool. Answering the great
bakehouse, on the opposite side of the bason, is the brew-
house similar in dimensions and external character to the
former, and having a corresponding chimney shaft.
Passing onwards in a direct line from the entrance, we
find the irregular quadrangle of the cooperage on our
left ; and beyond this we arrive at the Clarence stores,
(340 feet long and 50 feet broad) in front of which is
the Clarence wharf, extending its spacious platform over
a length of 500 feet, and terminated by a water entrance,
distinguished by its double flight of steps and massive
piers, the latter exquisitely wrought, and the whole of
granite. Taking the Clarence, in conjunction with the
other line of wharfs, with which it forms an obtuse
angle, we have, as it were, a marine terrace of about
1500 feet ; nor will the spectator fail to comment on the
singularly interesting prospect commanded by the
Clarence wharf, whence a part of Mount Edgcumbe,
the entrance into Hamoaze, (with, most likely, the flag
ship in full view) a portion of the Dock Yard, and the
houses of the admiral and governor on Mount Wise.
To facilitate this general description of the leading
features and their localities, a small plan is subjoined.

A. Grand Entrance. — BB. Officer's Houses. — C.
Bakehouse. — D. Melville Stores. — E. Bason. — F.
Brewhouse. — G. Cooperage. — H. Clarence Stores. — I.
Water Entrance. — K. Clarence Wharf. — LL. other

c 3

54 STOREHOUSE.

wharfs. — M. opening into Tunnel. — N. Reservoir on the
top of the rock, exalted above the level of the excavated
Yard. — O. is the Slaughter-house. The entire premises
occupy an extent of about thirteen acres, of which per-
haps six acres have been recovered from the sea, the
materia] for that purpose being derived from the ex-
cavations made in preparing the remainder of the site.
The labour attendant on this operation may be the better
conceived, by knowing that the quantity of rock removed
is estimated at 300,000 tons!' The sea wall abounding
the 1500 feet of wharf, (as before described) was sup-
plied with its foundation, and built up to the water level
by means of diving bells. The wall is founded at from
8 to 9 feet under low water mark, springtides, and rises
a total height of about 30 feet. Its face is curved in-
wards at a radius of 71/ 6" to resist the internal pressure
of the ground. The lofty wall built against the residue
rock, on which the reservoir is situated, is also curved in
like manner. The latter is nearly 50 feet high. The
reservoir, (neatly finished with granite and lime stone,
and surrounded with an iron railing) measures nearly
200 by 150 feet square, and will contain nearly 7000
tons of water. This communicates by cast iron pipes
with another reservoir two miles distant, in Four Field
Lane, Plymouth, and which is supplied by a stream
from Dartmoor. The general facing of the several
quadrangles, &c. is of wrought lime stone ; but the
cornices, plinths, and various "dressings," with the more
decorative portions of the principal fronts, are of granite.
The Clarence, Melville stores, and Cooperage, have
iron roofs, and the latter has also fire-proof floors, laid
with 4-ins. York Paving, on iron girders. The cooper's
shops are built in the centre of the cooperage yard, to
prevent fire being communicated to the surrounding
buildings. The top of each roof is covered with copper :
the lateral inclinations with slate. The door and window-
frames are of cast iron, also the internal columns sup-
porting the girders, &c. of floors. To provide against

STRANGER S GUIDE. 55

the difficulty of getting vessels round the Point in certain
states of the wind or tide, a tunnel has been constructed
leading immediately from the sound to the back of the
yard, into which it opens through a handsome rusticated
archway near the two houses of the resident officers.

The Melville quadrangle includes the offices of the
establishment, and store-rooms for wet and dry provisions,
and slop clothing, &c. The Clock over the centre is a
noble machine by Vulliamy.

The Clarence stores are also for wet and dry pro-
visions.

The Brewhouse is furnished with a steam-engine of
40 horse power, by which the grinding of malt, mashing,
pumping, &c. is effected. A similar engine is also em-
ployed in the bakehouse, where there are twenty-five
pair of mill-stones, affording the means of grinding a
thousand bushels of meal in ten hours. The manner in
which the meal is sorted and sifted deserves particular
attention.

The baking department is also most interesting, and
in ten hours the whole process is effected of converting
simple flour into 2450 pounds weight of biscuit.

Having viewed the yard, the stranger will not fail to
visit the reservoir above, whence he will have a bird's-
eye view of this vast establishment. From the Point
lower down he will command that most choice prospect
of Mount Edgcumbe, to which allusion has been already
so particularly made.

The Royal Naval Hospital

is situated in the north-east portion of the town. This
important institution, for the reception of sick and
wounded seamen and marines, was first opened in 1762.
The government is intrusted to an officer holding the
rank of post-captain, who also discharges the duty of
resident-commissioner of the victualling-office, and re-
sides at the hospital.

56 STOREHOUSE.

The hospital occupies a rising ground overlooking
Stonehouse-creek, which forms its northern boundary.
The area of the whole is about twenty-four acres, thirteen
of which are occupied by a lawn, forming a delightful
place of exercise for the convalescent patients. The
entrance from the town is in Fore Street, where a
subaltern's guard is constantly stationed. An avenue
leads to the houses of the principal officers. Opposite
these is the entrance to the hospital, with the commis-
sioner's and other offices adjoining. The hospital
consists of ten buildings, surrounding an extensive
quadrangle, each containing six wards, calculated to
receive sixteen patients ; but in cases of emergency that
number can be extended to twenty. From this state-
ment it will be seen, that as many as twelve hundred
patients can be accommodated at one time. Every care
has been taken to prevent the spreading of contagious
diseases ; the several buildings having no other commu-
nication than is afforded by a piazza, which surrounds
three sides of the quadrangle, and affords a sheltered walk
for exercise in unfavourable weather. Between the
principal edifices are four pavilions ; one is used as a
store-room, in another is the operating-room, and the
small-pox ward adjoining. The remaining two are
occupied by the cooking and victualling-rooms. The
central building on the east contains the dispensary, and
dispenser's apartments ; over these is the chapel.
Divine service is performed every Sunday, when,
besides the persons connected with the establishment,
the chapel is resorted to by a portion of the inhabitants
of the town. Besides the governor, there are, to ad-
minister the duties of this noble establishment, two
lieutenants, a physician, surgeon, agent, steward, dis-
penser, four hospital mates, several extra ditto, a chaplain,
&c.

The patients on being admitted are examined by the
medical officer on duty, and if necessary, are washed
and clothed in the hospital dress, their own clothes

stranger's guide. 57

being taken from them, cleaned, and deposited in the
storehouse until they are discharged. Hot, cold, and
shower-baths, furnished with every necessary accommo-
dation, are kept in constant readiness. There are also
a convenient washhouse, and drying ground ; and at the
eastern extremity is the reservoir, from whence the whole
establishment is supplied with water. Atalittle distance,
in one of the " Five Fields," a small piece of land is
enclosed for the purpose of sepulture.

The vast national importance of this institution may
be gathered from the following authentic statement : —
From the 1st January, 1800, to the 21st December, 1815,
no fewer than 48,452 seamen and marines were received
into the hospital, a very great proportion of whom
returned to the service as effective men.

When the greatest philanthropist the world ever pro-
duced visited this hospital, he expressed, in the warmest
terms, his approbation of its various arrangements.
The commendation of a man, who was not only the
glory of his country, but the ornament of the age, well
deserves to be recorded as the highest eulogium upon
this institution ; and there is no room to believe that it
has degenerated since the time of Howard. Foreigners
view its excellent appointments and discipline with
admiration, and candidly regard it as a noble monument
of true national greatness.

SUPPLEMENTAL SUMMARY, &c.

Stonehouse was originally called Hippeston, the name of a
mansion first inhabited by Joel de Stonehouse, in the time of
Edward III. The original, or West Stonehouse, wasatCremill
on the opposite shore, under Mount Edgeumbe, and D urn ford
Street derives its name from the family through which the
manor has descended, by marriage, to its present noble
possessor the Earl of Mount Edgeumbe, who, by granting
leases on liberal terms, has caused the town rapidly to increase.
The leases are granted on lives, renewable for ever at a fixed
fine, and subject to an annual conveniionary rent.

The only commerce carried on in this town, is the coal and
timber trade ; the vessels thus employed discharging their
cargoes at the quays in Stonehouse Pool, where the watermen
who ply for hire also resort, and in the vicinity of which a
commodious yard, for the building and repairing of vessels,
has been a long time established.

Stonehouse was constituted a Township by the Reform Act,
and exerts the elective franchise in connexion with the borough
of Devonport. It is divided into two wards, east and west,
by the line of Brownlow Street. The town is under the jurisdic-
tion of a bench of magistrates, who sit every Tuesday at the
Town Halt, a small building, but suitably arranged for I he
dispatch of business, and situated in High Street adjoining
the Workhouse, a plain edifice, erected in 1801. The paupers
are under the management of a governor, visiting and other
guardians, two overseers, clerk, surgeon, matron, &c. A
prison is attached to the workhouse, for the confinement of
vagrants or petty offenders, where they are detained until they
can be removed by order of the magistrates.

The Market Place is a neat and convenient building,
situated in Edgeumbe Street: two fairs are held annually in
May and September, when the principal scene of bustle and
gaiety is on the quay.

The Commfrcial Rooms, in Edgeumbe Street, are a branch
of the united establishment already described in page 21 of our
Plymouth article.

Reading Room, &:c. This establishment is in East Emma
Place, where daily and weekly newspapers, the navy and army
lists, &c. are taken in. The members chiefly consist of naval
and military gentlemen, who are admitted by ballot.

SUPPLEMENT. 59

The Post Oifick is in Union Street, and the periods of
airivai and departure are regulated by those of the Devonport
and Plymouth post-offices.

The National School, in Market Street, is conducted on
Mr. Bell's plan of education. The hoys are instructed in the
usual elements of useful knowledge ; the girls are also taught
to knit and sew, under the direction of ladies, who devoie a
portion of their time to the management of this department of
the school. The institution is supported by annual sub-
scriptions.

The Benevolent Society was established for the relief of
the sick and lying-in poor, and is supported by donations and
subscriptions ; the funds are further augmented by the profits
arising from the sale of ladies' fancy-work. This praiseworthy
institution is under the patronage of Lady Emma _LMgcum.be.

The poor of Stonehou.se have also the advantage of a district
visiting Society, lately established by the Rev. S. Howe,
incumbent of the parish : a blanket society ; clothing ditto ;
a Sunday school in connexion with the church, a YYesleyan
Sunday school, and a Bethel school.

Adjoining the Victualling Yard is Mount Stone Almshouse
for eight widows, lately established by Mrs. Bint, of Mount
Stone House. The inmates are neatly clothed, and supplied
weekly with coals, candles, and bread. They are members of
the established church, and are furnished with bibles, prayer
books, &c.

The Bridge. — Previously to the erection of Stonehouse
Bridge, foot-passengers were conveyed across the creek in a
boat, drawn from side to side by a cable. When the increasing-
importance of Devonport caused the thoroughfare to become
more frequented, a stone bridge, of one arch, was constructed
by the proprietors of the adjoining lands, the Earl of Mount
Edgcumbe, and Sir John St. Aubyn, bart. The revenue
derived from the erection of this bridge is considerable, as
even foot-passengers pay a toll of one halfpenny.

Higher up the creek is a second bridge of rough masonry,
affording direct access from the northern part of Stonehouse to
the populous villages of Stoke.

One of the most remarkable features in the history of Stone-
house is its adherence to the cause of King Charles, when
Plymouth held out victoriously against it.

The remains of several batteries erected in Elizabeth's time
are still perceptible. Above one of them, which protected (in
common with another on the opposite shore,) the entrance into
Hamoaze, is a guardhouse, where the royal marine artillery
practise the firing of heavy shot, their mark being a small flag

60 STOREHOUSE.

attached to a buoy in the Sound. On Stonehouse hill, over-
looking Mill Bay from the north, is a modern fort, the site of
which is leased by the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe to the Govern-
ment, on the usual terms of the manor. The old manor office
in Emma-place, is about to be supplanted by a new and
substantial building, from designs by the author, to include
offices for the stewards, and apartments for a resident clerk.
Courts leet and baron are annually held by the stewards.

Stonehouse is supplied with water by the Devonport company,
incorporated by act of parliament in 1799, with power to collect
the waters of several springs on Dartmoor, and to bring the
same in an open course to the towns of Devonport and Stone-
house. The springs are not above fifteen miles distant, but
the leat traverses a winding course of more than 37 miles.
Considerable improvements have been lately effected by the
construction of new reservoirs, and by laying down extensive
lines of cast iron pipes, affording an abundant supply of water
to the towns generally, and also to the several government
establishments. The works are under the direction of J. M.
Rendel, Esq. engineer to the company.

Mill Bay between the Peninsula of Stonehouse and the
Continent of Plymouth, (if we may be so magnificently
geographical) has quays only on the Plymouth side, Stonehouse
Pool on the west side of the town being the harbour in com-
mercial use. From Admiral's Hard, in the latter, boats may
be hired. Here are several quays, ship -building yard, &c.
and moorings for steam-boats and merchantmen.

'r^sar5.

D EI/o/Vpox r Cot O/w/v ,

a.-noC
Mount Z'lotl ChucpeL .

BOROUGH OF DEVONPORT.

STRANGER'S GUIDE.

After passing Stonehouse toll bridge, a steep ascent
of about 1| furlongs conducts to a gate forming the S.E.
entrance into Devonport ; nor can we but allude to the
striking prospect seen from hence, including the Victual-
ling Office, Mount Edgcumbe, Plymouth, and a con-
siderable extent of country bounded on N.E. by the
lofty waving outline of Dartmoor. There are two other
entrances defended by draw-bridges, viz. one on the
N.E. leading to Stoke, and another on the N. leading
to New Passage and Morice Town. A fourth entrance
into the town is immediately from the water at North
Corner, which would be more strictly called North-west
Corner ; and there is a fifth entrance from the mouth of
Hamoaze at Mutton Cove. The fortifications had ad-
vanced to their present state in 1816, when the works
were suspended. The town, which was first fortified in
the reign of George II. is defended on the water side
by the battery of Mount Wise, on the south, in addition
to those of St. Nicholas Island, Mount Edgcumbe, and
Stonehouse.

The Principal Inns

are Elliofs Rpyal Hotel, near the Dock Yard gates,
west end of Fore Street; Weakley' 's Hotel; Townshend's
London Inn ; Franklin's George Inn, $c.

The Lodging Houses and Baths

of Mr. R. O. Backwell arc charmingly situated in
Richmond Walk, by the wafer side, south of the town

62 DEVONPORT.

and afford every accommodation for resident families
with every variety of baths.

Hackney Coaches

are generally in readiness at the several stands, viz. in
Fore Street, Catherine Street, Morice Square, and
George Street. Omnibuses are constantly plying to and
fro, between the western extremity of Devonport, and
the eastern ditto of Plymouth.

The Post Office

is on the east side of St. Aubyn Street. (See page 73.)
For fares, and information as to Coaches, Waggons,
Vans, &c. ; Steam Boats, Packets, &c. &c. {See
Appendix.)

The Fore Street has been before-mentioned as the
handsomest of the three towns, exhibiting a variety of
excellent shops, and a general aspect of gaiety and
respectability. At the western end is the Dock Yard
gateway and chapel. The other leading thoroughfares
are Catherine Street, Duke Street, and St. Aubyn Street ;
the Market Place being near the junction of the two
former. The market days are Tuesday, Thursday, and
Saturday.

The objects most worthy of notice in an architectural
sense, are Ker Street, and the several buildings at its
higher end. One side of the street presents a handsome
Ionic range designed by Mr. Foulston, who was also
architect of the Town Hall, Column, Mosque Chapel,
and Egyptian Library. Of these, the Town Hall and
Column will attract most earnest attention. The latter,
as more particularly connected with the history of the
town, shall be first mentioned.

The Column

was erected to commemorate the day when "Plymouth
Dock " was superseded by the more distinguishing name

Mm.

.Efcv&bwwefJFbrZice

.

I

———-—{

s

jffian; &{ TerZzce

rOTdTjTCO Of TJZ& Z>£V~0MPO&Z' TowzrJ&AZL

stranger's guide. 63

of " Devonport." To this end a petition was forwarded
to George IV. in 1823, praying either that. such alteration
should be made, or that such other name should be
given as his Majesty might deem proper. The name
desired was however graciously afforded ; and, on the
12th August, 1824, the foundation stone of the existing
structure was laid. Cost of erection about £2800.
This noble monument is of granite, fluted, and of Doric
proportions : not quite six diameters high : measuring
65ft. 4ins. from the bottom of the shaft to the top of the
capital ; and making, with its inferior and crowning
pedestals, a total altitude of 101ft. 4ins. Its height
above the street, including the rock on which it stands,
is 124 feet: diameter of the shaft at the base 11 feet:
ditto at the top 8ft. 6ins. : number of steps leading to
the gallery 140. The extraordinary view from the
gallery has been already alluded to in the Introductory
Sketch (page 3,) and should on no account remain
unseen by the visitor. A person is always in attendance
to admit visitors, on payment of one shilling.

The Town Hall

is distinguished, not merely by a classic portico, but
also in the fact of its not being (as such features mostly
are) a mere transcript of classic example. The critical
spectator will observe that it finishes with a horizontal
blocking course, and that it is essentially Doric, though
no triglyphs appear on its freize. The depth of the
Pronabs, and the elevation of the entrance door upon a
second internal landing, are peculiar features in this
building, and greatly conduce to its boldness of effect.
As a graphic memorandum of this arrangement a plan
and elevation of the Portico have been sketched. The
columns are 27ft. 6ins. high, and their lower diameters
5ft. 6ins. The hall is 75ft. long; 40ft. wide; and 31ft.
high. Within the building are cells for prisoners, offices
for parochial business, and apartments occupied by the
Mechanics' Institute. This structure, (which, with the

d 2

64 DEVON PORT.

column, is certainly a substantial testimony to the taste
and spirit of the inhabitants) was commenced in 1821,
and completed (exceptingits internal fittings) for £2902.*

The Library,

conspicuous from its Egyptian front, was erected 1823,
at an expense of about £1500. Mr. Rowe informs us
that the celebrated Denon, on seeing Mr. Foulston's
design for this facade, pronounced it the best attempt
to appropriate Egyptian architecture to domestic pur-
poses that had ever come under his notice. This
building was erected for the purposes of the " Devonport
and Stonehouse Classical and Mathematical Subscription
School/' but was subsequently purchased for application
to its present purpose.

The library, which is designated " Civil and Military ,"
was established 1827, by proprietary shares — about
eighty in number — of twenty guineas each : a contribu-
tion of that sum, with an annual subscription of two
guineas, constituting a proprietor.

The building-comprises a news-room, committee-room,
and spacious library, containing about four thousand
volumes.

The Institution is managed by a president, 2 vice-
presidents, a treasurer, secretary, and committee of
15 members, elected from the proprietors, at their
annual general meeting in September.

A union was formed in 1830, with the Garrison
library, upon which occasion the Institution adopted its
present designation, and admitted, as members, all
military officers belonging to the Garrison; retired

* The Column and Town Hall were executed by the late
Mr. J. L. Kickard, whose protracted life might have proved
surprisingly beneficial to the town. By no one (apart from his
nearest relatives) is his loss more deplored than by the author,
who had a large work proceeding under Mr. Rickard's masterly
execution, when a fall from his horse at once deprived archi-
tecture of a superior operator, and society of a valued man.

STRANGEll's GUIDE. 65

officers of the army, not permanently residing in the
three towns or neighbourhood ; and the General, in
command of the district, as an honorary member. ,

All proprietors — the General in command, the staff
officers, and military members of the book committee,
have the privilege of introducing strangers to the library,
and news room : the following are the terms of sub-
scription.

Per Annum,

Proprietors £3 3 0

Military members 3s. 6d. monthly, or . . 2 2 0

Subscribers to the library and news-room 3 3 0

Ditto to the library alone 2 2 0

Ditto to the news-room alone .... 1 1 0

The library possesses a comprehensive and valuable
collection of Minerals, lately the property of Sir John
St. Aubyn, which he most liberally presented to the
Institution.

Mount Zion Chapel

exhibits an ingenious adaptation of Mahomedan archi-
tecture to christian purposes. It was erected in 1 823 — 4,
at a cost of about £2000. The spectator will, no doubt,
remark upon the singular commixture of styles, as shewn
in the proximity of the several buildings just described,
and which seem as if they had here met in parliament,
to prefer the respective claims of their Greek, Egyptian,
and Oriental constituents. The assemblage, though
strange, is certainly picturesque ; and, if we hesitate to
recommend the repetition of such experiments, we are
far from regretting, that in this instance they have been
made.

St. Aubyn's Chapel,

distinguished by its stone spire, was erected by sub-
scription in 1771, under an act of parliament.

Besides the regular service on Sunday, this chapel is
also open for public worship on Wednesday and Friday.

d 3

66 DEV05P0RT.

St. John's Chapel

was erected by subscription, under an act of parliament,
in 1 779, and is said to have cost the sum of £7700.
The arrangement of the interior is curiously amphi-
theatrical. The roof embraces a clear span of 70 feet,
the length of the chapel being 90 feet. There are
sittings for 1500 persons.

Among the monuments is a pleasing bas-relief by
Lege, to the memory of the Rev. T. M. Hitchins, many
years minister of the chapel. Here is also a good organ.
Since the time of the first curate, Mr. Hitchins, who was
nominated by the subscribers, the presentation has been
vested in the rector of the parish, and the lord of the
manor of Stoke Damerell. Divine service is performed
thrice on Sunday; and there are also prayers and
lectures on Tuesdays and Thursdays.

The Dock Yard Chapel,

erected by government in 1821, will be admired as a
spacious and substantial structure, expensively fitted up,
and furnished with a good organ. It is, of course,
chiefly intended for the accommodation of the officers,
civil, naval, and military, together with the operatives
and soldiers belonging to the yard ; but it is also open
to the public, and is in general fully attended.

The Dissenting Meeting Houses are as follows : —
Mount Zion Calvin ist Chapel, in Ker Street, already
described : Calvinist Chapels in Princess Street, Mount
Street, and South Street: Baptist Chapels in Morice
Square and Pembroke Street : Methodist Chapels in
Morice and Column Streets : Moravian Chapel in James
Street, and Unitarian Chapel in Granby Street.

It will be observed, that the north and east sides of
Devonport are fortified with wall and fosse, the south
side and the west ditto (which last is almost entirely
occupied by the Dock Yard and Gunwharf ) being open
to the water. The three land entrances have guard-

stranger's guide. 67

houses contiguous, those on the north and north-east
having- gateways of massive masonry and draw-bridges.
Immediately north of the Plymouth entrance are the
offices and storehouses of the engineer department.
The eastern side of the town is flanked by the several
barracks for the artillery, engineers, cavalry, infantry,
&c. On Mount Wise, which bounds the southern
portion of the town, is

Government House,

delightfully situated on the Grand Parade, and com-
manding a southern view of great beauty. The house
contains every accommodation for carrying on the
military government, and for the household of the
governor. The front extends 200 feet. The brass
cannon near the principal entrance was taken from the
Turks in the engagement of the Dardanelles. North-
west of the governor's is the

Port Admiral's House,

including offices for the transaction of naval business,
courts martial being held on board the flag-ship in
Hamoaze. At a short distance south-west on the top
of the hill is the Semaphore, by which a constant com-
munication is maintained between the office and the
flag-ship, and which forms the first of a chain of tele-
graphs communicating with the Admiralty in London.
To illustrate the perfection of the telegraphic system, it
will be sufficient to state, that a message has been sent
to, and an answer received from London, in fifteen
minutes ! The Parade, with its martial pomp and music,
and Mount Wise, with its charming walks and prospects,
form a great source of pleasure to the inhabitants ; nor
must we omit to recommend to the visitor's notice,

Richmond Walk,

along the water's edge, at the foot of Mount Wise,
formed by the late Duke of Richmond, when master-

68 DEVONPORT.

general of the ordnance, to remedy the discontent occa-
sioned by his having built the boundary wall which
surrounds the town immediately above the sea shore. This
walk is approachable from the south-east or Plymouth
gateway, and conducts to the bathing establishment already
mentioned, (page 61) and to the King's stairs erected for
the use of the navy and army in 1820, at the joint expense
of the Admiralty and Ordnance boards. The baths are
also approachable on foot from Mount Wise, and by a
carriage way from Stonehouse bridge.

Boatmen ply for hire at North Corner, New Passage,
and Mutton Cove. A particular account of the Steam-
Boat Bridge, at New Passage, will be hereafter given.
The ferry between Mutton Cove and Mount Edgcumbe
is worked by two boats for foot passengers, and another
for carriages and horses.

SUPPLEMENTAL SUMMARY OF GENERAL
INFORMATION.

Devonport is in the hundred of Roborough, parish of Stoke-
Damerell, archdeaconry of Totnes, and diocese of Exeter —
218 miles from London, (see Stoke article.) The entire
manor, (including the town and villages of Stoke and Morice
Town) formerly belonged to the Wise family ; was transferred
by purchase to the family of Morice ; and is now, by inheri-
tance, the property of the St. Aubyn family, with the exception
of the estates t ord and Swilly, the glebe, and ground purchased
by Government. The first lease of land purchased by Govern-
ment was in 1718, and by an act of the sixth of George 111.
the ordnance board was empowered to purchase other lands,
which were granted on lease for 21 years, renewable every 7
years. Other additions were subsequently made to the Govern-
ment lands. The steward of the manor holds court-leet and
court-baron annually at Michaelmas, when a jury is sworn in
to prevent nuisances, and the parish constables are also sworn.
By the act of second William IV. Devonport was constituted
a borough, with the privilege of returning two members to
parliament, the right of voting extending to all ten pound
householders within the entire parish of Stoke Damerell, and
the township of Stonehouse Its first representatives, ( again
elected in 1834,) were Sir E. Codrington and Sir George Grey.
The town is governed by aboard of 150 commissioners, chiefly
elected from among the inhabitants, vacancies being filled up
once a year : among them are the lord and steward of the
manor, the commissioner of the Dock Yard, the port-admiral,
&e. The watching and lighting, paving and cleansing of the
town, the management of the poor, and the granting of licences
to porters, watermen, &c. are entrusted to them. The mayor,
aldermen, and recorder of Plymouth and Saltash, and the
manorial lords and stewards of Stonehouse, and East and West
Anthony are also qualified to act on the licensing commission.
A bench of resident magistrates hold petty sessions every
Wednesday at the Town Hall.

The Water Company was established by act 33rd of
George III. It had been previously attempted to obtain water
from the Plymouth leat, which, however, was not acceded to
by the corporation, under the idea that the stream might be
insufficient for so large a supply. The Devonport leat was

70 DEVON PORT.

consequently formed, and may be occasionally seen in close
companionship with that of Plymouth, as it follows its winding
course of thirty-seven miles from its source on Dartmoor.
The reseivoir is on the higher part of Stoke, near the block-
house, and an abundant supply of water is thence afforded,
by extensive lines of cast-iron pipes, to Devonport, Stonehouse,
the Dock Yard, Gun wharf, and other government works.
Great improvements have been lately made under the direction
of Mr. Hendel, engineer.

The Workhouse is under the immediate management of a
governor, permanent overseer, surgeon, matron, treasurer,
school master and mistress, appointed by the commissioners.
Besides the usual lodgings for the paupers, there is a convenient
infirmary, and the governor and matron are resident within the
walls. Schools are established for the instruction of the
children of both sexes, the master and mistress receiving an
annual salary from the parochial funds. The overseers ot the
poor are elected annually. The permanent overstev has a
salary. The weekly stipend allotted to the paupers is paid by
the officers, with the assistance of some of the commissioners.
Provisions for the consumption of the workhouse are supplied
by contract.

In 1815 was established the Devonport and Suokehouse
Public Dispensary, supported by voluntary subscription.
An annual subscriber of one guinea is entitled to recommend
four patients every year. The building is a neat stone-fronted
structure, situated in Chapel Street. The affairs of the insti-
tution are directed by a president, vice-president, treasurer,
and secretary ; with separate committees for Devonport and
Stonehouse.

The establishment of a Pauper Lunatic Asylum is highly
honourable to the town. It is managed by a keeper and
matron, subject to the governor of the workhouse, and a com-
mittee of commissioners who meet every Tuesday. A surgeon
attends daily. The charitable spirit of Devonport is also
manifested in its Lying-in Charity, Female Benevolent ditto,
Humane ditto, Dorcas ditto ; while the christ;an zeal of the
town is testified in its several societies for the promotion of
religious knowledge at home and abroad. Here are also
several Benefit Societies, one of them supported by an unusual
number of members, and having a large capital in the public
funds.

The Public School for Poor Boys is conducted on the
improved British system of education. The school-house
adjoins St. John's chapel, and was erected by subscription in
1809. The affairs are directed by a president, vice-president,

BUPPLEMENT. 71

treasurer, secretary, and visitors ; and an annual meeting is
held tor auditing the accounts and appointing- officers. The
apartment for the master adjoins the school-room, and strangers
are allowed to inspect the establishment daily.

The Public School, for the instruction of poor girls, was
instituted on the first of March, 1799, when St. John's chapel
was opened for public worship, and a subscription entered into
to promote this institution. About 100 female children are
educated in reading and working, and as a reward of industry,
in writing. They are all clothed ; regularly attend divine
worship ; and are instructed with the view of rendering them
good servants and eligible inmates of families, The school-
room is on the floor over the boys' school, where are also
apartments for the mistress, and the occasional use of the
ladies who superintend the charity. On Thursday mornings
the school is open for public inspection. Its affairs are directed
by a treasurer, secretary, and a committee of ladies and
gentlemen. Both schools are supported by voluntary contri-
bution. There is also a school belonging to the Baptist
dissenters, supported by subscription, and a Methodist
Sunday School, opened on Sunday, February 3rd, 1822.
There are also other Sunday schools, where a vast number of
children are instructed in reading, and the principles of religion,
on the plan usually adopted by the benevolent individuals who
devote their attention to those desirable objects.

Devonport United Mathematical and Commercial
School is a neat quadrangular structure, on the northern side
of the Town Hall, erected principally by the artisans of H.M.
Yard at this port, who in 1829 united themselves into a com-
pany for the establishment of this admirable institution. There
are 352 subscribers, each having the right to nominate two
children. The building comprises two rooms, measuring 63ft.
by 36ft. the lower being appropriated to the boys the upper
to the girls. The management of the institution is vested in
twenty -one trustees, and a committee of twenty-one, the latter
being changed half-yearly. The education is based on the
Borough-Road system, with certain modifications. The head-
master is assisted by 2nd and 3rd masters. The female
department is under the superintendence of 1st, 2nd, and 3rd
governesses. The boys are educated in reading, writing,
arithmetic, mathematics, geography, use of the globes,
grammar, &c. at different rates, from 2d. to 6|d. per week.
The females are educated in grammar, geography, use of the
globes, history, writing, ciphering, plain and fancy needle- work,
knitting, netting, &.c. at the rates of from 2d. to 5^d. per week.
Between 300 and 400 boys, and about 200 girls are educated in
this establishment.

72 DEVONPORT.

The Devonport Classical and Mathematical School,
at the head of Princess Street, was opened in August 1821, and
is supported by subscriptions of Proprietors. The selection of
the most eminent masters, and the judicious arrangements
throughout, cannot fail to ensure a continuance of that success
which has already exceeded the expectations of its founders.
The establishment is for 103 pupils. The Madras system of
education being rigidly adheied to. The school is managed
by a president, 3 vice-presidents, a treasurer, secretary, regis-
trar, librarian, building surveyor, head master, 2nd and 3rd
masters, a French master and assistant, writing and drawing
masters. The officers, and a committee of 12 proprietors, are
annually elected.

The Royal Naval Annuitant Society, in Ker-Street,
was established on the 9th of April, 1823, under the patronage
of His present Majesty, for the purpose of securing annuities
to the families of deceased naval officers — numbers unlimited.
Its success has been unparalleled. It has a capital of £90,000
vested under the provisions of the 10 Geo. 4. c. 56, and a
handsome building was erected in 1832, by a subscription of
only 4s. per share, where the society holds its meetings.
Besides the patron, there are a vice-patron and actuary,
presidents and vice-presidents, selected from distinguished
admirals, generals, captains, and colonels of the navy and
marines, trustees, treasurers, secretaries, and stewards, and
a managing committee of fifty, elected from the members at
large,

The Banking Houses are as follows : — Devonport Bank
(established 1807), in Fore-Street — Hodge and Norman,
General Bank (established 1813), in Fore-Street — T. and
H. J. Husband.

The Union Savings Bank (established 1818), is situated
in Chapel Street, trie present building having been erected
1829. The affairs of the institution are under the direction of
a patron, president, a body of trustees, and a committee of not
less than 21 managers. The officers consist of a treasurer,
secretary, and actuary. A meeting of the managing committee
is held quarterly, and a statement of the accounts, funds, &c.
is published annually, pursuant to a general meeting of the
trustees and managers. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur-
days, the office is open for public business. The advantages
of the institution extend beyond these towns, by means of
local receivers of deposits. The amount of deposits received
from individuals, friendly societies, and charitable institutions ;
the rate of interest allowed ; and the investment of the funds
in the Bank of England, on Government security, fyc, are all

SUPPLEMENT. 73

in conformity to the provisions of the Acts of Parliament for
the regulation of these institutions.

Three Newspapers are published weekly, viz.— The
Devonport Telegraph and Plymouth Chronicle, on
Saturday morning, published by G. J. Soper and W. Richards,
70, St. Aubyn-Street. The Devonport Independent and
Plymouth and Stonehouse Gazette, on Saturday morning,
by W. Byers, 32, Fore- Street. The West Devon Standard,
on Wednesday, by G. W. Hearle, 111, Fore-Street.

The Devonport Mechanics' Institution was established
in 1825, when a fitting, inaugural discourse was delivered by
the late George Harvey, Esq. of Plymouth. Its affairs are
managed by a president, 4 vice-presidents, secretary, treasurer
and librarian, elected annually ; and a committee of 24 (two-
thirds of whom are chosen from the operatives,) elected half-
yearly. The body of the society includes members for life,
honorary members, senior and junior members (the latter
being under 21 years of age), amounting at present to 110
members, the senior class paying 3s. 3d. and the junior 2s. 2d.
per quarter. Lectures are delivered on Monday evenings
during the winter months. There are classes for the study of
French, drawing, and chemistry . The library consists of about
2800 volumes, viz. 1400 on science ; 300 literature; 500 his-
tory ; 400 travels ; 176 periodicals.

POST OFFICE.

MAILS. ARRIVE. DEPART.

London 7. 30 p.m. 6. 45 a.m.

Bath 10. 45 p.m. 5. 0 a.m.

Cornish and North Devon, > 6# ^ 6# ^

via Calhngton >

Falmouth via Torpoint 4. 30 p.m. 7. 0 a.m.

penny-post messengers.

Stoke delivers twice a >8# Q- 8. 5 p.m.

day S

Torpoint 7. 0 a.m.

Cawsand & Milbrook 8. 0 a.m.
Plymouth,dispatched? 6# 45 A#M# n 0 A#M# & 5# 45 p#M#

3 times )

Plymouth received ... 6. 45 a.m. 3. 0 p.m. & 7. 30 p.m.

e

DEVOKFORT.

The Dock Yard.

This public establishment, in a local sense alone, is a
place of great importance ; the extent, wealth and popu-
lation of the neighbourhood, being greatly dependent on
it.

It gives employment to upwards of 4000 persons in
time of war, and to not less than 1500 during peace.
The money paid weekly, in wages alone, cannot fall
short of £5000 in war, and £1500 in peace. We believe
we are within bounds in saying, that even in a period
of profound tranquillity, at least seven thousand persons
are wholly maintained by the dock-yard.

But, however interesting these local considerations
may be, reflections of a higher character suggest them-
selves to most who visit a royal dock-yard. Englishmen
are accustomed to look upon the navy as the main prop
of British power ; and they regard our naval arsenals
with associations which far surpass mere idle curiosity.

Plymouth dock-yard was established during the reign
of William and Mary (1691,) and is therefore of sub-
sequent date to all other royal dock-yards, excepting
that at Pembroke, which is of very recent formation,
(1810). The first Government yards were founded at
Deptford, Woolwich, and Portsmouth, by Henry VIII.
in 1513 ; the next was at Chatham, in Queen Elizabeth's
time, 1558 ; and then Sheerness, in the reign of Charles
II. 1660. Thus it appears, that notwithstanding the
advantages to this country, of possessing a dock-yard in
so desirable a situation as Plymouth, it is only since
1691 that this valuable arsenal has been instituted.

Among the first considerations in determining the
position of a dock-yard, it will naturally be asked
whether there is a good harbour and sufficient depth of
water for our largest men-of-war. In these respects,
Plymouth is particularly adapted to the wants of a naval

SUPPLEMENT. (J

port. In IIamoaze, on the eastside of which Plymouth
dock-yard is situated, 150 sail of the line may moor in
safety ; and such is the depth of water, that the largest
ship in the navy may come into harbour at any time of
tide, with all her stores and guns on board, which is not
the case at any other dock-yard in the kingdom.
There is also a rise and fall of tide (amounting to about
1 9 feet on the average spring tides), which is of great
service in docking and undocking ships. These natural
advantages, combined with the geographical position of
the port, in relation to foreign powers, attach immense
importance to the Plymouth yard.

It has already been remarked that the dock-yard is
situate on the east side of Hamoaze. Its extent is 75
acres, 36 poles, of which, a small part only is the pro-
perty of the crown; 65 acres, 2 roods, 23 poles, being
held of Sir John St. Aubyn, on a lease of 21 years,
subject to an annual rent of 30s. per acre, and a fine of
£534. 4s. 6d. (or three years' value), on each renewal,
which must be made every seven years, under a penalty
of an entire forfeiture of the lease. The first lease
granted by Sir William Maurice, in the year, 1 728, was
for 40 acres only ; the remaining part was enclosed in
1768.

On entering the yard there is an official residence
occupied by the director of police, a police force having
been formed as a civil guard to the dock-yard, in May
1834. The police force consists of 1 director, 3 inspec-
tors, 3 sergeants, and 40 constables. An inspector, a
sergeant, and 2 policemen, are always stationed at the
gate, by whom every attention is paid to visitors.

Application must be made in writing to the Captain
Superintendent for permission to see the yard, which is
never denied, except to foreigners, who cannot be
allowed admission without an express order from the
Admiralty.

Permission having been obtained, strangers are re-
quired to insert their names, residences, and professions,
in a book kept for that purpose. e 2

76 DEVONPORT.

The first objects on entering the yard, are the chapel
on the right hand, contiguous to the residence of the
director of police, and the bell-post on the left.

The chapel is a handsome, substantial building, of
hewn stone, with a tower and set of bells. It is 100
feet long, and 75 feet broad, and the extreme height of
the tower 86 feet. The foundation was laid in 1814,
and it was first opened for Divine service in November,
1817. The interior is commodiously and elegantly
fitted up for the officers and people belonging to the
yard; also for the accommodation of the navy, in com-
mission and in ordinary, as well as for the military in
the garrison.

The chapel was built at the expense of government,
and is said to have cost £24,000. It occupies the site
of the old chapel, built in the year 1700, under the
interesting circumstances narrated in the following
inscription which was over its southern entrance, and
deserves to be recorded :—

IN THE ELEVENTH YEAR

OF THE REIGN OF KING WILLIAM THE THIRD

ANNO DOMINI 1700

THE CHAPEL WAS FOUNDED AND BUILT

BY THE

GENEROUS AND PIOUS CONTRIBUTIONS OF OFFICERS

AND SEAMEN BELONGING

TO A SQUADRON OF MEN-OF-WAR PAID OFF IN THIS YARD

(AFTER TEN YEARS EXPENSIVE WAR WITH FRANCE)

BEING PROPAGATED AND CARRIED ON

BY THE INDUSTRY

AND RELIGIOUS ENDEAVOURS OF

GEORGE ST. LEO, ESQ.

COMMISSIONER OF THE SAID YARD AND COMPTROLLER

OF THE NAYV.

In front of the police-director's residence is the bell,
which announces the hours of commencing and termi-
nating the periods of labour during the day, and strikes
the quarters during the night, commencing after the
hours of labour. This bell was taken from the Tonnant,
an 84 gun-ship, captured at the battle of the Nile. It

SUPPLEMENT. 77

is said that this bell had been previously stolen from the
famed church of St. John, in the island of Malta. The
post upon which the bell stands is 60 feet high ; and of
teak wood.*

Between the police-director's house and the chapel
is a small door leading into the master-shipwright's
garden, where there is a large reservoir, to supply the
dock-yard with water for ordinary purposes, and in
case of fire. The reservoir (built in 1812), is elliptical,
70 feet long, 60 feet broad, and 8 feet deep. Water
was first brought into the yard in 1 797, but was not
conveyed over the yard before 1812. As a precaution
against fire, a most methodical arrangement has been
made, which assigns to every individual belonging to
the dock-yard his particular post and duty.

In going down the yard the stranger will first pass
along an avenue of trees, planted in 1816, on the left-
hand side of which is a plot of ground tastefully laid out.

To the right, on the north side of the main road, is
the military guard-house, over which is the navy pay-
office. Near the end of the path, on the left hand, is
the surgery, where the workmen hurt in the perform-
ance of their labours have the benefit of professional
assistance ; and should they be prevented attending duty
in consequence of injuries received, the surgeon, or
assistant-surgeon, visits them at their homes, while they
are humanely allowed a portion of their wages, until
they are either recovered or placed on the superannu-
ation list.

The surgery communicates with the surgeon's resi-
dence, which is in the row of houses appropriated to
the principal affairs of the dock-yard.

* The bell-post is a single stick of teak, once formipg the
main-mast of an Indiaman.

e 3

78

DEVONPORT.

The following .are the residences of the officers,
beginning at the north end of the terrace : —

Surgeon
Cashier

Builder's Assistant
Store Receiver
Master Attendant
Master Shipwright
Capt. Superintendent
(centre)

Storekeeper
Assistant Surgeon
Captain Superintendent's

Chief Clerks
A ssistant to Master Attend ant
Builder's Assistant
Boatswain in the Yard

The terrace has a paved promenade in front, shaded
by trees. It is flanked by two wings ; one end of the
south wing being used as the office of the Captain Super-
intendent, the end of the other employed as a model-
room, in connnexion with the London United Service
Museum,

The works of the yard are not visible from this spot,
and every thing seems as tranquil as if little or nothing
were going on ; and yet a dock-yard is a little busy
world of manufactures, upon the skilful co-operation of
which, the efficiency of the British marine depends.
Here we see the noble art of ship-building in all its
stages, the making of anchors, manufacturing of cables,
construction of masts and yards, the making of sails,
rigging of ships, building of boats, and making of pumps,
capstans, &c. &c. All these branches are proceeding
with admirable system, in exact proportion to the
exigencies of the service, and to an extent dependent on
the magnitude of the establishment.

Plymouth yard has five slips for the purposes of
building ; three single docks, and one double ditto, for
carrying on repairs ; and spacious storehouses, with
efficient workshops, for the purposes of equipment, &c.
We wish the reader to understand the general capa-
bilities of the department, that he may attach due
importance to its details, brought under his notice in
walking round it. From the end of the terrace, in front
of the officer's residences, are two roads, one on the left,
leading towards the central part of the yard, and one

SUPPLEMENT. 79

(a little to the right) by a flight of steps, to the north
end of the yard. The latter is the preferable path, as it
takes a direction which renders it unnecessary to walk
over much of the same ground twice.

Descending this flight of steps, the stranger finds
himself at the north end of the dock-yard, which is
almost wholly set apart to the service of ships in dock. If
he turn to the right, at the bottom of the steps, he will pass
a new steam-engine house in progress of building,
when we went to press. We understood there were to
be two engines of 20-horse power each, one for pumping
the docks, the receding of the tide not being sufficient
to leave them dry when ships are grounded upon the
blocks ; and the other engine for driving a turning lathe,
circular saws, grinding-stones, trenail and screw-cutting
machines, till-hammer in the adjoining smithery, and
for drawing timber up the inclined plane adjoining.

In front of the engine-house are two kilns for boiling
timber, a process commonly employed to render the
plank supple, so that it may be made to coincide with
the curved form of the body of a ship.

A little beyond the engine-house is the North Smithery,
and at a short distance is the north boundary wall of the
yard, against which, from the bottom of the brow to the
water's edge, are the locksmiths' and plumbers' shops ;
also the stonemasons' yard, carvers' shop, and a sale-room
where old stores are sold by Dutch auction.

The docks will be best seen by walking round the
jetties. It has been already remarked that there are
three single docks, and a double dock. The first is
called the " North New Dock,'7 constructed in an
excavation of solid rock. Water was first let in in 1 789 ;
His Majesty George III. was present. The following
are the dimensions of the dock : —

Feet Jne.
Length from the gate to the top of the slope. • 254 9

Ditto bottom 214 8

Breadth at the piers 56 7

Ditto in the clear at the gates...... «., 56 4

80 DEVONPORT.

Feet Ins.

Breadth in the extreme . 97 0

Depth 27 8

Declivity 1 11

Bottom of the dock below low water mark . . 2 0

Depth of water in it at ordinary spring tides 19 6

Ditto extraordinary ditto 22 6

The second is the " Union Dock," the next the
"Double Dock," and lastly, the "South Dock," the
entrance to which is from a basin 190 feet by 250 feet,
occupied by boats employed on services afloat. The
channel into the basin is 50 feet wide, situate between
two jetties. At these, as at every other jetty, there is
sufficient depth of water, at low tide, for the largest ship
of war.

In passing from the " Union" to the " Double Dock,"
there is a landing place called " North Stairs," for the
accommodation of the Captain Superintendent of the
Yard, and commissioned officers. Here is also a small
waiting room, for the convenience of officers who are
liable to be occasionally detained there. The north
dock is the only one open, all the others are covered
with enormous roofs, to protect the ships from the
weather, and to shelter the workmen employed upon
them.

Having passed the South Dock on the left hand,
leaving the basin on the right, a splendid quadrangular
series of storehouses present themselves. They stand
on a piece of ground measuring 480 feet from east to
west, 300 feet from north to south, and are three stories
high. On the northern side are the entrances to the
" rigging house" and a sail loft" and the store for
"fitted rigging and blocks." The appropriation of every
department is legibly written over each door. The
storehouses bear distinguishing numbers, and are en-
tirely under the charge of a storekeeper ; but the other
parts of the building are under the superintendence of
distinct officers.

SUPPLEMENT. 81

The visitor had better take a general survey of the
yard before he goes into the storehouses. On the
eastern side of the quadrangle is another entrance to the
store for "fitted rigging and blocks," also a storehouse
for " boatswains' " " carpenters' " and " gunners' stores."
There are likewise on this side of the building, an
entrance to a court containing "iron ballast, and coal for
steam-vessels" and an entrance to a " lot yard, and junk
sheds." In front of the gateway to the lot yard is a
weigh bridge, used to determine the weight of heavy
articles from one to ten tons. The spacious jetty
between the storehouses and the water side is occupied
by the anchor-wharf, excepting the south part, where
there is a "graving slip" used for vessels requiring only
such casual work as may be performed in the interval
between two tides. Some idea may be formed of the
demand for anchors for the navy, when it is stated that
a first rate is supplied with eight anchors, namely, five,
each weighing 95 cwt. one of 21 cwt. one of 10 cwt,
and one of 5 cwt.

On the south side of the quadrangle are the entrances
to two other stores; one for " cordage and ships returned
stores" the other for " cables, worn rope, lead, and
miscellaneous stores" and lastly, on the eastern side of
the quadrangle, is the "present use store for the yard
services."

On the road-way, which passes north and soutli
through the centre of the quadrangle, is a storehouse set
apart for sets of sails, appropriated to different classes
of ships. This building has one story more than those
by which it is surrounded, although the extreme height
is the same. Every part is composed of iron and stone ;
the girders, joists, doors, sashes and frames, are of cast
iron, executed in a style of peculiar neatness. The roof,
also of cast iron, is worthy of notice, from the lightness
of its construction. The floors are of Yorkshire stone,
and the geometrical staircase of moor-stone, projecting
6 feet clear from the wall, is much to be admired. The

82 DEV0NP0HT.

hand-rail is 1 70 feet in length, and so neatly manufactured
as not to exhibit any trace whatever of a joint. The
expense of this storehouse has been estimated at £l 5,000.

The communication between the storehouses is pre-
served by neat stone bridges, with balconies, which cross
the road at each end. Immediately in front of the
entrance to the depository for " cordage and ships9 returned
stoics" is a wooden swing bridge, crossing a canal,
nearly sixty feet wide, and 820 feet long, at the end of
which are the boat-house pond, (about 80 feet wide, and
360 feet long), slips, and sheds. On the south side of
the canal is the " New Ground" principally devoted to
the building department; and it is here that the five
building slips are situated. There are three within a
very few yards of each other, each suited to the building
of a first-rate ; and all of them are roofed. The lower
part of a wooden building, near the canal entrance, is
kept for a chain-cable store. Chain cables are not
manufactured by Government, but supplied by contract.
They are officially received at Woolwich dock-yard,
where their strength is tested by a machine.

Pursuing a direct line from the swing bridge, we pass
three building slips on the right hand, covered with
immense roofs. Housing No. 1, is 263 feet long, 126
feet broad, and 67 feet high; there are 10,245 panes of
glass in it ; and the estimated value of the whole is
£13,000. There are here also two supplying kilns in
front of the slips for boiling plank. Behind the kilns
are the saw pits.

We now recommend the stranger to continue his route
in front of the building slips, until he arrives at the mast-
house, which stands upon a slope, descending into a
large basin 230 yards long (of irregular breadth), com-
municating with the harbour, for the purpose of floating
masts and yards between this department and ships
afloat. In walking through the mast-house it will be
seen that there is another slope and basin, on the eastern
side. The masts and yards launched into this basin,

SUPPLEMENT. 83

arc, for the most pent, those not wanted for immediate
service. These spais are kept wholly under water, it
having been found from experience that immersion is
favourable to their preservation. The inner pond is
about 200 yards long, and 63 yards broad.

The scientific enquirer and lover of mechanics, may
here find much to speculate upon and delight in. The
various kinds of foreign fir timber vary greatly in value,
strength, durability, and dimensions ; and the modes of
p reservation, before they are applied to the purposes of
mast-making, are questions of the first importance. A
complete set of masts and yards for a first-rate, has been
estimated at not less than £4,000. Again, the principles
of proportioning the forms of spars to their respective
lengths, and of combining the several lengths together,
so as to form a whole, are considerations of great moment.
A little beyond the mast-house, are two more building
slips, which complete the total number (five) in this
dock-yard. We are now at the southern boundary wall,
contiguous to a part of Devonport, known by the name
" Mutton Cove." The visitor will be repaid for the
trouble of walking to the water side, where he will find
a small terrace, kept in very neat order, and much
frequented, as a quiet retreat, by the families residing
in the yard. There is a delightful view from this spot,
of the Sound, Mount Edgcumbe, the Royal William
Victualling-Yard, Mount Wise, and the Harbour.

On leaving this terrace, we return towards the head
of the last building slip, whence a rocky mount, covered
with plants and vegetation, attracts notice. Strangers,
accompanied by a policeman, are indulgently permitted
to ascend to the top, where there is a small gold and.
silver fish pond, a fountain, and summer-house. This
place is called " King's Hill," from the circumstance of
George III. having once visited that spot during the
excavating (or levelling) of the yard ; when he was
heard to lament the possible removal of a spot com-
manding so fine a prospect of the harbour and neigh-
bourhood.

84 DEVONPORT.

Near King's Hill, in a north-east direction, are the
rope-houses. The buildings are 1,200 feet long, built
of stone and iron, to render them fire-proof, the former
ropery having been destroyed by fire.

Near the ropery is the boat-house, where boats are
being built and repaired, and where they are stored to
meet the demands of the service.*

At the end of the boat-house slip is a stone bridge
over the canal, with the south smithery, capstan house,
and mould loft, near at hand.

The smithery is worth visiting if heavy work happen
to be going forward, such as manufacturing a large
anchor. The largest size anchors weigh about 96 cwt.
and it will take 20 men 36 days, working 10 hours a
day, to make an anchor of that size. It is a curious
sight to strangers to see the operation of what is called
the* Hercules, which is a weight of 8 cwt. made to
descend with a force supposed to be equivalent to a
blow of nearly 8 tons. There is a great deal of heavy
work required for ship service, as may be easily supposed,
when it is stated that the iron knees alone of one of our
first-rates (Hibemia's), are said to have weighed 59 ton
8 cwt. !

The capstan house is a work-shed in which capstans,
windlasses, and tops, are made, and chain-pump gear
fitted. There are single and double capstans ; the
former for small vessels, the latter for ships from the
size of a frigate, upwards. A double capstan, made in
the simplest manner, for a first-rate, is worth about £100.
The mould loft is not accessible without express
permission. It is set apart for preparing the moulds,
and furnishing such information for the " timber-con-
verter/7 as will enable him to provide every piece of

* Some years ago, Mr. Johns, one of the foremen of the yard,
introduced a new principle of boat-building, making the bottoms
of two thicknesses of planking, instead of constructing them with
timbers and planking. The planks take a diagonal direction, both
externally and internally, those on the outside being placed in
contrary direction to those which form the inside lining.

SUPPLEMENT. 85

timber used for a ship, according to the required form
and dimensions — one of the most difficult and important
duties connected with practical ship-building. The
drawings of ships ordered to be built are furnished to
the officer superintending the " New Works." The
designs are usually drawn upon a scale of J of an inch
to a foot, which is 1-48 part of the actual size of the ship.
It is necessary, therefore, to transfer the lines of the
drawings upon a floor, in order to make moulds which
will correspond with the actual form and dimensions of
the ship which is to be built. In viewing the mould loft,
little more is to be seen than a spacious floor, covered
with curved lines, which intersect each other in various
directions ; and to any but a technical eye, presenting
an appearance of great confusion.

Opposite the entrance to the mould loft, are sheds
stored with timber, laid apart for seasoning. From the
roadway, between the mould loft -and timber sheds, may
be seen, in a southern direction, the stone bridge, which
crosses the mast-house back shop. In the opposite
direction is the other stone bridge which we crossed on
leaving the boat house.

Should the stranger contemplate visiting the store-
houses, rigging loft, &c. he must retrace his path over
this latter bridge, and turn to the left as soon as he gets
to the north side of the canal.

The storehouses are all numbered : —

No. 1 — on the eastern side of the quadrangle, is set
apart as a "present use store for yard service.7' The
different stores used in building and repairing ships,
(most of which are supplied by contract) are here
arranged in admirable order, and dealt out to the work-
men on their producing demand — notes signed by the
proper officers.

No. 2 — storehouse is for " cables, worn rope, lead,
and miscellaneous articles."

No. 3 — for " cordage and ships' returned stores" is
generally a busy scene, as ships are continually returning

F

86 DEV0NP0RT.

some description of stores, none of which can be received
by the storekeeper without being previously surveyed by
a professional officer, in order to ascertain whether they
are decayed, repairable, or serviceable.

No. 4 — is for the issue of "carpenters ', boatswains',
and gunners' stores/7 in fact, it is a present size store for
the fleet.

No. 5 — is for sails, and for "feted rigging and blocks."

No. 6 — is inclusively for "feted rigging."

In the sail loft at the west end of the north side of
the quadrangle are sails of every description, (made in
the dock-yard) from the smallest boat-sail to the largest
for a man-of-war. Colours and signal flags of all kinds
are likewise made in the dock-yard; but neither the
canvass (for sails), nor the buntin (for colours), is of
government manufacture. Both are supplied by contract.
Canvass, articles of ironmongery in general, bar iron,
iron bolt-staves, paper, oil, pitch, tar, glue, &c. &c. are
supplied by contract.

Blocks, copper and mixed metal articles, are manu-
factured at Portsmouth, and sent to this yard.

In the rigging loft, at the east end of the north side
of the quadrangle, rigging for the various classes of ships
is cut to its proper length and prepared to meet the
demands of the service. The cordage made use of is
supplied from the dock-yard ropery.

On leaving the storehouses, we may take the route
along the south side of the south dock, adjoining the
basin. A flight of steps will be seen from the head of
this dock, and just above them the house occupied by
the Captain Superintendent. The buildings to the
north of the steps are the house carpenters and joiners7
shops, hand-pump and block shops, turnery and " loan
tool store." The building, on the south side of the
steps, includes the public offices, noticed before we
descended the steep flight of steps which led us, on
first coming into the yard, to the docking district. At
the top of these steps is a road of gentle declivity, leading
towards the £atet

SUPPLEMENT. 87

The Gun- Wharf

is an important department of the naval establishment,
situated on the margin of Hamoaze, north of the Dock
Yard, from which it is divided by the street leading to
North Corner landing place. The area of ground with-
in the walls is nearly five acres, held by government
on a tenure similar to that of the Dock Yard. This
depot was formed above a century since, and the buildings
which were planned by Sir John Vanburg,* who was
attached to the ordnance department, are constructed in
the substantial style which distinguished the works of that
artist. The entrance from the town is in Ordnance Street,
from which an avenue of trees is continued to the front of
the officer's houses. Opposite to those is the capacious
reservoir, from which the establishment is supplied with
water, and immediately adjoining a flight of steps leads to
the armoury, and other buildings in the lower part.
These steps and a large portion of the site of the gun-
wharf, are hewn out of schistos rock, which in some places
is excavated to the depth of thirty feet. The storehouses,
which contain the armoury, are lofty buildings, filled
with various instruments of destruction ; vast quantities
of muskets, pistols, and cutlasses, are deposited in chests,
or arranged in racks, and along the walls, in the form of
stars, circles, and crescents. Near these storehouses is
the blacksmith's shop and other buildings, used as deposi-
tories for gun-carriages and the implements of the field-

* Who is not acquainted with the humourous distich written
as an epitaph on Vanburgh 1

1 Lie heavy on him earth, for he
Laid many a heavy load on thee 1"

F 2

88 DEVONPORT,

train. The intervals between the different edifices are
occupied by piles of ordnance, belonging to the ships in
Hamoaze harbour, with their respective names painted
on the cannon. There are also large quantities of shot,
arrayed in pyramidical heaps, marked with the number
contained in each pile. The immense quantity of stores
seen here, together with the armoury, form a sight worthy
attention. Like the Dock-Yard, the Gun-Wharf is
inclosed by a high wall. Persons desirous of viewing it
must make application to the storekeeper.

89

STOKE.

STRANGER'S GUIDE.

Leaving Devonport, by its north eastern gate, the
stranger may proceed Plymouth-ward to Stoke Church
and the Military Hospital, on the bank of Stonehouse
creek ; he may pass up the ascending meadow on his
left to Tajnar Terrace, a respectable row of houses,
commanding a superb view of Hamoaze and England's
" wooden walls :" or he may take a mid-way course
into the body of Stoke village.

The inclosed Ionic range, on the high ground facing
the south is Cornwall 'Terrace : the descending line of
detached residences below, is known as the Albemarle
Villas.

Taking a northerly direction we pass along Trafalgar-
row, and shortly arrive at Upper Stoke, through which
proceeds the turnpike-road to Tavistock.

In approaching Higher Stoke,

Belmont House,

the residence of John Norman, Esq. will arrest the
stranger's attention. Its Doric tetrastyle, and lateral
portico in ant is, give external dignity ; while an interior
of corresponding classicality receives additional richness
from a choice collection of pictures. The house is from
the designs of Mr. Foulston, who was the architect also
of another select example of domestic architecture in the
neighbourhood, viz. Travers House, builtfor R. Bromley,
Esq. The usual nursery toy of Cockney origin, deno-
minated a " Villa/' is brought into wholesome ridicule
by the two residences just alluded to, which really are
" Villas," in a sense that Meca?nas himself would have
admitted. The eastern part of this extensive suburb is
also distinguished by the architectural pretensions of
numerous residences, lately built, or now erecting. At
the back of Higher Stoke is the f 3

90 STOKE.

Block House,

of which note was taken in the introductory survey.—-
It is important as a redoubt, defended by fosse and
drawbridge, equally calculated for defence and annoy-
ance, and valuable as a land mark to ships entering
the Sound. But its chief recommendation to the lover
of the picturesque is the perfect and extensive panorama
of which it forms the centre. The circular reservoir at
a short distance east, is that of the Devonport Water
Company, supplied by a stream whicli traverses a
winding course of 37 miles, from the springs on Dart-
moor, and supplying, by means of iron pipes, the towns
of Devonport and Stonehouse, together with the Dock-
Yard, Gun wharf, and other government establishments.

Stoke Church.

Regarding Stoke Church, as the Cathedral Metro-
politan of Stoke Damerel; having in its diocese an
important borough, two great villages, several sub-
chapels episcopal, and a population of 40,000, the
stranger may be excused for giving that wonder to the
meanness of this building that he has previously bestowed
upon the splendours of Canterbury and York !

The living is a Rectory in the archdeaconry of Totnes,
diocese of Exeter, and in the patronage of Sir John
St. Aubyn, who inherits the manor from Sir William
Morice, to whom the advowson of the rectory was
granted by Charles II.

The burying-ground, though very extensive, has not
been found adequate to the mortality of the increased
population of the parish ; in consequence of which, a
piece of ground adjoining the old church-yard has been
enclosed and consecrated as a cemetery.

Close to the church is the

Military Hospital,

erected 1797, on the northern side of Stonehouse creek,
immediately opposite the Royal Naval Hospital. The

stranger's guide. 91

situation is salubrious and airy, declining with a gentle
slope to the water's edge. The buildings and ground
attached are surrounded by a lofty wall, through which
there is a land entrance on the north. There are also
a commodious landing-place and receiving-house, on
the creek. The south front of the edifice (which is
built of grey marble,) is imposing from its arcade of
forty-one arches which support a terrace in front of the
upper windows, and afford shelter to the promenade
below. The wards are spacious, lofty, and well ven-
tilated ; and the greatest precautions have been taken to
render the establishment complete in every respect.
500 patients have been accommodated at one time.

92

STOKE.

SU PPLEMENT.

Dissenting Chapels :— Wesleyan Methodist Chapel,
Tavistock Street ; Providence Chapel, (Independents) Home-
Park Buildings.

Stoke Public School for Poor Boys, established about 14
years since by voluntary subscription, for educating 100 Boys.

This establishment is greatly indebted to the zeal and
liberality of the late Colonel Littlejohn, who gave a donation
of £150, for the purpose of building a new School House
capable of containing the same number of girls in addition.
Here is a Provident Society, the great object of which is to
promote economy among the Poor, who are encouraged to make
weekly deposits for their own relief, either towards rent or
clothing, which is laid out for them in the winter months. —
A portion of the free subscriptions is appointed to the supply
of clothing to the aged and infirm, whose circumstances will
not admit of their subscribing.

03

MORICE TOWN.
STRANGER'S GUIDE.

Leaving Devonport by its north gate, or descending
westward from Stoke towards Hamoaze, we find our-
selves in the third division of Stoke Damerel parish,
called Morice Town, or New Passage, the latter name
being derived from the comparatively recent establish-
ment of the ferry across Hamoaze to Torpoint on the
Cornish shore opposite. The town includes several
regular streets of small houses, and two or three
dissenting chapels ; but contains nothing worthy the
stranger's notice unless it be a remarkably fine Slate
Quarry, and one or two neat cottage residences in the
vicinity. Here are several wharfs, warehouses, coal-
yards, lime kilns, &c. and extensive brewing establish-
ments, one of them entitled the Artillery Brewery, and
belonging to Messrs. Williams and Co. of London.

The Powder Magazine,

at Keyham Point, a short distance north of Morice
Town, was erected in 1784, and is, of course, provided
with every possible guard against lire and lightning.

The buildings cover a space of about 5 acres. There
are houses for the officers belonging to the establishment,
and a neat row of cottages appropriated to the use of
the foreman and senior workmen. During the last war
these magazines were found inadequate to the wants of
the service, and 5 line of battle ships were fitted as
floating magazines. II. M. ships which rendezvous or
touch at the port receive their ammunition from this
depot, as do the king's land forces ; together with the
several yeomanry corps stationed in the four western

94 MORICE TOWN.

counties ; also the coast guard stations from Dorsetshire
to the Land's end, and in many parts of Wales. Since
the abolition of the Laboratory on Mount Wise, the
whole of the flannel cartridges issued to his majesty's
ships have been filled and prepared at these magazines.
The Royal Powder Works at St. Budeaux, situate about
1 \ miles further up Hamoaze, on the same side, are
connected with this establishment, and receive all
damaged powder from it for the purpose of being
restored and made serviceable, when it is again returned
to Keyham Point for issue to his majesty's ships. The
extreme westerly position of these magazines renders
them of great importance.

95

TOR POINT BRIDGE.

STRANGER'S GUIDE.

Cuunttes, like players, "have their exits and their
entrances ;" and Morice Town on the one side of
Ilamoaze, and Torpoint on the other, are the beginning
or the end of Devon and Cornwall, as the traveller
happens to be proceeding east or west. A common
boat-ferry was established according to act in 1791, by
the manorial lords of Stoke Damerel and Antony, and
the passage became so frequented in 1828, that an
association was formed of the neighbouring nobility and
gentry, to effect some improved mode of communication
between the shores. A steam boat of peculiar con-
struction, but guided by a rudder, was first put upon
trial, and failed. Application was then made to
J. M. Rendel, Esq. engineer, who has left nothing to
be desired on the part of his employers. Mr. Rendel
is now justly celebrated as the inventor of the steam and
chain boat bridge, which has been so successfully applied
at the Torpoint, Saltash, Dartmouth, and other ferries
in distant parts of the kingdom. The Torpoint bridge-
boat resembles in general outline a flat-bottomed barge
55 feet long and 50 feet wide. It is divided lengthways
into three compartments, the two side ones being for the
accommodation of the passengers, horses, carriages, and,
of course, every description of cattle and vehicle. The
central division is occupied by the steam engines and
machinery. Lifting and falling platforms, 25 feet long
and 10 feet broad, are hung at each end of both the side
divisions, to effect every facility of egress and ingress,
so that horsemen and the passengers, and drivers of
coaches, may with perfect safety drive on and off, and
retain their seats during the passage, which is made in 8

96 TORPOINT BRIDGE.

minutes, the width of the river being here 3500 feet.
The bridge is impelled by two small steam engines,
operating on two fixed chains, which extend across the
river from shore to shore. The principle of motion
therefore, is much the same as that of an ordinary wheeled
vehicle, the ground below in the one instance being
answered by the chains above in the other. These chains
also serve (as must be obvious) to steady the vessel,
and to effect the safe and unerring passage of the boat,
notwithstanding exposure to strong winds and a current
of 4 miles an hour. The chains sink so precipitately at
each end of the boat as to prevent any interruption to
the passage of the largest ships over them. The bridge
is neither affected by weather nor darkness, and is
capable of conveying, at one time,- 4 carriages with 4
horses to each, and a great number of foot passengers.
The principle has proved most economical as regards
power, superintendence, and repairs ; and as an instance
of the good effected, suffice it to say, that, during the
first twelve months of operation the travelling was more
than doubled. The Cornish mail coach which before
commenced its morning and completed its evening
journey at Torpoint, now conducts its passengers
undisturbed from or to Elliott's Hotel in Devonport.
The managing officers are appointed annually by the
company, who are lessees of the old ferry, and whose
liberality and public spirit have been additionally testified
by the building of a second bridge, which either now is;
or shortly will be, in operation.

97

TORPOINT BRIDGE.

SUPPLEMENT.

In connexion with the Torpoint Boat-E ridge may be
mentioned Mr. Rendel's plan for a new Turnpike Road, from
Devonport to St. Austle through JLooe and Fowey, a printed
report upon which, to the subscribers for the survey, illustrated
by apian (on the scale of 3 inches to a mile) was issued in
January, 1835. Besides the great comparative avoidance of
hills, the saving in distance compared with the present road
through Liskeard and Lostwithiel would exceed 8 miles.
These and many other advantages detailed in the report
are such as to make us hope that the spirit and means of the
public may second the skill of the engineer, and bring (to
use the reporter's words) "the two most improtant public
harbours of Plymouth and Falmouth nearly two hours nearer
to each other, while a coast proverbially exposed to an enemy
will be immediately opened to the military depots of Devonport
and Plymouth."

A bridge similar to that of Torpoint was established at
Saltash by a company of proprietors, under act of parliament
in 1832, there having been previously a common boat ferry.
The river here is 1200 feet wide and 90 feet deep, with a current
of 5 miles an hour. A new road is now making by the
Turnpike Trustees to the Saltash Bridge, by which many
laborious hills are avoided, the distance from Devonport
reduced 2 miles, and from Plymouth nearly one mile. The
new road will be not less remarkable for the beautiful prospects
unfolded than for its advancement of the agricultural and
commercial interests of the vicinity. To the liberality of J . T.
Coryton, Esq. of Pentillie Castle and *J. H. Rodd, Esq, of
Trebartha Hall, this useful work is chiefly attributable.

99

VISITOR'S GUIDE

TO PLYMOUTH SOUND, BREAKWATER,
EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE, &c.

Plymouth Sound has been already generally described
in pages 2, 4, and 8. Boats may be hired at the
Barbican, or Sandy-cove at the foot of the Hoe, and
watermen are usually in waiting at the Royal Hotel.
During the summer months, a steam-boat makes frequent
excursions to the Eddystone rocks, and for further
instructions concerning a visitto the Lighthouse strangers
should apply at the Custom House, where they will
meet with the master of the Eddystone boat.

St. Nicholas, or, as it is sometimes called "Drake s
Island, about a mile from the main land, is guarding, as
it were, the mouth of the Tamar . It isstrongly fortified and
garrisoned by a detachment of troops from the Plymouth
Citadel. The landing-place is on the north side, and the
rock is ascended by a flight of steps through a vaulted
passage. The area of the island is not more than three
acres, a large proportion of which is occupied by the
fortifications, and buildings necessary for the accommo-
dation of the troops. Leaving this place, and proceeding
in a southerly direction through the Sound, our attention
is vociferously demanded to the

Breakwater.

We say " vociferously," for the rolling billows of the
English Channel are not less audibly than visibly mani-
fest, as they exhibit their continuous mile of foamy anger
at the effective daring of human power, which seems,
at length, to have substantiated Canute's command to
the ocean, " Thus far shalt thou come, and no further !"
The pride of the old world is now constantly receiving

g 2

100 BREAKWATER.

check in the mare extraordinary works of the new, —
not, as regards the poetry of art, — but, unquestionably,
as respects the practice of constructive science. The
abstract demands of mere colossal magnitude are to be
answered by means which no country, under a liberal
and christian government, would desire to see available.
It is the quantity of mind employed in the Plymouth
Breakwater and Eddystone Lighthouse, which renders
them far more astonishing, and as much more truly
estimable, than the great Egyptian Pyramid, or the
Alexandrian Pharos.

Nothing had been done to improve the Sound and
render it a secure anchorage-place for ships of war until
the winds and tides were suitable either for going into
Hamoaze, or proceeding to sea, before the year 1806, when
Messrs. Rennie and Whidby were directed to make the
necessary surveys. On their reports his Majesty's order
in council was issued, bearing date the 22nd day of
June, 1811, for commencing the work on the plan pro-
posed by the aforesaid gentlemen, and on the 12th of
August, 1812, the first stone was laid with great pomp
and ceremony. The whole length of the Breakwater is
eight hundred and fifty fathoms, its eastern end extending
about sixty fathoms from the St. Carlos Rocks, and its
western about three hundred from the Shovel. The
centre has a straight direction ; the ends inclining to the
middle part in an angle of about one hundred and
twenty degrees. Breadth at the base 120 yards — at the
top 16; length at the base 1760 yards— at the top
(including the two arms) 1700; average height 14 yards ;
slope of the work towards the sea, three horizontal to
one perpendicular ; towards the land, one and a half
horizontal to one perpendicular. The marble of which
it is formed is obtained from the quarries in Catwater,
thrown in promiscuously, in blocks of several tons each.
The estimate of its probable expense, at the commence-
ment, was £1,171,100, and, it is calculated to shelter
with facility 50 sail of the line.

S 1 It A N C E B 's GUIDE. 1 0 I

Fhe summit is paved with square blocks of stone,
rendering it a fine promenade, 48 feet in width ; and
near the centre of the side towards the land a square
projection is made, on the three sides of which are
convenient landing-steps, facing east, west, and north,
offering a sheltered debarkation at any wind. On this
projection stands a flag-staff, from which the British
ensign is displayed on public days ; and whence floated
the royal standard in the summer of 1824, in honour of
a visit from his present Majesty when Duke of Clarence.
The initials of the royal visitor, with the date, &c. are
engraven on a stone of the Breakwater, as a memorial
of the event. Another stone is engraven in honour of
Lord Melville and the board of admiralty, who visited
the Breakwater shortly after.

The utility of the Breakwater has been long apparent,
and its effects have answered the most sanguine expec-
tations. Indeed, so early as the end of the second year
from its commencement, when about 800 yards only of
the central part were visible at low-water, there was a
striking alteration experienced in the state of the Sound ;
for the swell at the head of it was so much broken down,
that the fishermen were no longer able, as before, to form
a correct opinion of the state of the sea on the outside
of the port. On one occasion 200 sail of vessels, driven
in by tempest, found protection within its extended arms.

The strength of the work was put to a severe test in a
tremendous hurricane on the night of the 9th January,
1817, when the water rose six feet beyond what is usual
at spring-tides, and his majesty's ships Jaspar and
Telegraph were driven on shore in the sound and lost.
On examining the Breakwater after the storm had sub-
sided, it was found that about 200 yards in length, and
30 in width, of the upper stratum of the finished part,
had been displaced by the violence of the sea.

The severest trial, however, took place on the 22nd and
23rd of November, 1824, when the whole southern coast
of England was bestrewed with wreck and desolation.

g 3

102 BREAKWATER.

The tide rose to the frightful height of 26 feet 2 inches,
while the mean height of its rise at spring-tides is
usually only 18 feet. The greater part of the surface
of the Breakwater was on that occasion completely over-
turned, and huge stones of from two to five tons each
were carried from the outer and deposited on the inner
slope. The centre and western end suffered most, and
the landing place was destroyed. It is, however, con-
sidered that the advantage gained to the work by the
shock, causing the blocks to be more firmly settled down,
will more than compensate for the derangement of the
surface. On the whole, therefore, this occurrence may
be considered as a most satisfactory proof of the utility
and durability of this great national barrier. It need
hardly be remarked, that those liabilities to injury, to
which such a work as the Breakwater is subject while
in progress, will not exist to anything like an equal
extent when the work is completed. In the hurricane
of January, 1828, not a single stone of the finished part
of the work was moved from its position.

The fears entertained by some, that the erection might
ultimately be detrimental to the Sound and Devonport
harbour, by causing an increased deposit of mud and
silt, are satisfactorily proved to be groundless, no per-
ceptible alteration having taken place in the depth of
water at either of those places, or in the strength or set
of the tides.

To insure a correct general idea of the form and
substance of the Breakwater a small plan, fig. 1, and
a section to a larger scale, fig. 2, are adjoined.

At Staddon Point, opposite the eastern end of the
Breakwater, a quay is erected as a landing-place, for
the accommodation of boats taking in water for vessels
in the sound. At a short distance from this point, is
Bovisand Reservoir, constructed in a hollow between
two hills. It is supplied from an excellent stream ; and
is capable of containing from ten to twelve thousand
tuns of water, a sufficient quantity to furnish fifty sail of

Fxgl

P L AN .

&tc£j-c'o£t

One -Mite in -Zettgtck

H

en
i

Hi •

stranger's guide. 103

the line. The water is conveyed in iron pipes to the
landing-place, and thence on board the ships. The
expense of its construction was £l 6,000. The establish-
ment is under the direction of the Victualling-Board.
Near the reservoir resides the superintendent of the
Breakwater establishment, in a neat modern house,
delightfully situated, sheltered by hills, and commanding
a full view of the Breakwater, Sound, Cawsand-bay, and
the opposite shore. The public works in the vicinity
have given attractiveness to a spot heretofore scarcely
known by name ; and Bovisand-bay has consequently
become a favourite resort for aquatic parties. A group
of cottages on the cliff furnishes the usual accommo-
dation for tea and other refreshments.

On the western side of the Sound, opposite Bovisand,
is Cawsand Bay, the united villages of Cawsand and
Kingsand appearing at its inner extremity. At some
distance S.E. of the Breakwater is the Shag Stone, an
isolated rock of some magnitude ; and, further on to the
S.E. is the Mew Stone rearing its pyramidal mass out of
the surrounding waters, and standing, as it were, sentry in
the great portal of Plymouth Sound. This curious rock-
island appertains to C. Calmady, Esq. and swarms with
rabbits. Mr. Prideaux, alluding to its geology, speaks
of it as " composed of red sand stone, and a rather gritty
slate, full in some places of pale greenish nodules; per-
haps organic reliques. The strata are laid open by the
sea and weather, in such an extraordinary way, that
they look as if displayed by art in tables for exhibition."
— ( See transactions of the Plymouth Institution.) — A
reef of subject rocks called the Little Mew~sto7ie is seen
near the rock dominant, and in his befitting castle on
the latter lives the feudal " Lord of the Isles," Sam
Wakeham, of whom a full account was published some
time back in No. 21, of the South Devon Museum,
from which we take the liberty to quote the following
description of the view commanded from the summit of
the Mewstone. — "Dim in the eastern distance is

104 EDDYSTOJSfE LICIITHOUSE.

shadowed the Bolt-Head, south -westward of it may be
observed the mouth of the Avon, and the long line of
Bigbury bay, receiving the waters of the Erme, but the
mouth of this river is hidden behind the promontory
called Stoke Point. The river Yealm is seen winding
its way between headlands into the Sound, nearly
opposite the Mewstone ; and a little southward of its
mouth stands the lonely church of Wembury ; thence
the eye is carried to Bovisand bay and pier ; Staddon
Heights ; Mount Batten ; the Hoe; Mount Edgcumbe ;
Maker Heights, with Kingsand and Cawsand nestling
below them ; Penlee point, the Obelisk, and Adelaide
chapel ; Rame head, and its crowning chapel ; Whitsand
bay, and the rugged line of Cornish coast, stretching
away to the Lizard point. "

The Eddystonc Lighthouse.

While the Breakwater is admired as a work of mere
utility and magnitude, the Eddystone Lighthouse pos-
sesses a triple charm, as a brilliant gem of constructive
science, as an object fascinating in form and situation,
and as characterized by a noble purpose of humanity.
Elevated on a head-land, or isolated within a short
distance from the shore, it would claim, (and, indeed
merit) little comparative interest : but, rising, as it does,
amid the swelling billows of the open sea, apart from all
but an occasional and brief communion with the social
world, either shrouded in the black horrors of the ocean
storm, or gleaming in unparticipated sunshine, it acts
upon our senses with a spell of magic and finely typi-
fies the quality of truth — " immutable, immaculate, and
immortal, — firm alike in weal and woe — unaffected by
the ever floating change of surrounding existence, and
serene amid the vainly threatening surge of worldly
scorn!"

stranger's guide. IOo

This interesting structure is built on one* of a large
cluster of rocks stretching across the channel in a north
and south direction, to the length of about one hundred
fathoms, it is distant from the pier at Plymouth fourteen
miles, and wholly exposed to heavy swells from the Bay of
Biscay and the Atlantic ocean. The particular form
and position of these rocks tend greatly to augment the
force of the sea, and previously to the erection of the
lighthouse, many fatal accidents happened upon them.
Though most important to the port of Plymouth,
the Eddystone Lighthouse is beneficial to all vessels
going up the channel. In 1696, notwithstanding the
insuperable difficulties that seemed to attend the erection
of an edifice on a rock so situated, Mr. H. Winstanley,
succeeded in accomplishing that desirable object. His
fabric, however, was so fantastically constructed that it
bore no unapt resemblance to a Chinese pagoda, and
the general opinion was that it would prove as frail
in substance, as it was fanciful in taste. Mr. Winstanley,
however, "was so well assured of the strength of his
building, that he only wished to be there in the greatest
storm that ever blew under the face of the heavens, that
he might have an opportunity of witnessing what effect it
would have upon the lighthouse/7 This desire was
fatally accomplished in November 1703. Mr. Winstanley
went out to superintend some repairs of the building,
and that very night a tempest arose, which so increased,
that next day the Lighthouse, with its inmates, was swept
into the deep. It had not been long destroyed before
the Winchelsea, Virginiaman, laden with tobacco for
Plymouth, went to pieces on the rocks, and all on board
were lost.

The next light-house erected by Mr. John Rudyerd,
was constructed of stone and timber. The building
formed the frustrum of a cone, free from any projection

* Mr. Prideaux describes this one rock— and that only — as
of gneiss; the only rock of its kind that he is aware of in
England.

106 EDD*STONE LIGHTHOUSE.

which might endager its security. It was commenced
1706, completed 1709, and sustained the attacks of the
sea, upwards of forty-six years, when it was destroyed
by fire against which no precautions had been taken,
because no idea of such danger had been entertained.
On the 22nd of August, 1755, the workmen had returned
on shore, having finished all necessary repairs for the
season; between which time, and the 2nd of December
following, the attending-boat had been several times to
the lighthouse, and on the first of December, landed
some stores, when the light- keepers made no complaint.
On the morning, however, of the 2nd of December,
about two o'clock the light-keeper went into the lantern,
and found the whole in smoke. On opening the door into
the balcony, a flame instantly burst from the inside of
the lantern : he endeavoured to alarm his companions ;
but they being asleep, were not so ready in coming to
his assistance as the occasion required. As there was
always a tub of water, in the lantern, he attempted to
extinguish the fire in the cupola, by throwing the water
from the balcony, upon the outside cover of lead : by this
time his comrades approaching, proceeded to fetch up
water with the leathern buckets from the sea ; but the
labour of earring it from below to a height of 70 feet was too
tardy in operation, and the flames continued to gather
strength until the fire was discovered by some Cawsand
fishermen, who pushed off their boat and reached the
rocks at 10 o'clock, after the fire had been burning for
8 hours. By this time the light-keepers, driven from the
rooms and staircase, to avoid the falling of the timber,
and red-hot bolts, had taken refuge in a hole, on the
east side of the rock, and were found almost in a state
of stupefaction. The wind at this time was sufficient to
render the landing most hazardous. It was with mucli
difficulty, therefore, that the men could be taken in ;
but this being accomplished, the boat hastened to Ply-
mouth. No sooner, however, were they set on shore,
than one of them made ofT, and no tidings were

stranger's guide. 107

afterwards obtained of him. This circumstance created a
suspicion of the fire having originated in design; but,
as the peculiar situation of the lighthouse " seemed to
preclude the possibility of its being burnt wilfully, n
Mr. Smeaton attributed his flight to that panic which
sometimes seizes weak minds, and irresistibly prompts
them to commit actions the tendency of which is pre-
cisely inverse to the effect intended. Admiral West,
who than lay with a fleet in Piy mouth Sound, sent a
launch, with several hands and an engine; but the
agitation of the waves was so great, that nothing could
be done in stopping the progress of the flames ; and
after some ineffectual attempts to play upon the building,
the engine-pipe was broken by accident. The fire was
in consequence left to its own course. A curious practi-
cal comment is afforded in the fact that the interposed
beds of timber were sufficient to heat the moor stone red-
hot. Not till the seventh of the month did the joint action
of the wind, the fire, and the sea totally complete the
catastrophe ; and Rudyerd's admirable building, faulty
only in its materials, then exhibited no other evidence of
its late existence than was afforded by the iron cramps
and branches left standing upright upon the rock. The
most remarkable circumstance connected with the des-
truction of Rudyerd's Lighthouse, is recorded in the fate
of Henry Hall, one of the light-keepers, 94 years of age.
While looking upwards to observe the progress of the
flames, a shower of melted lead fell from the roof, and
a quantity of the liquid metal passed down his throat.
The man having disclosed this fact, was not believed ; but
on his death, which took place about twelve days after
the accident, his body being opened, a solid piece of
lead, weighing seven ounces and five dramns, was found
in his stomach.

The present building, erected by the justly celebrated
Smeaton, exhibits a striking instance of art and ingenuity,
and has hitherto remained a monument of great original
power and acquired skill. The first stone was laid on

108 EDDY STONE LIGHTHOETSE.

the first of June, 1757. "Mr. Smeaton conceived the
idea of his edifice from the waist or bole of a large
spreading oak. Considering the figure of a tree as
connected with its roots, which lie hid below the ground,
Mr S. observed that it rose from the surface with a large
swelling base which, at the height of one diameter, is
generally reduced by an elegant concave curve to a
diameter less by at least one third, and sometimes to
half its original base. Hence he deduced what the shape
of a column of the greatest stability ought to be to resist
the action of external violence, when the quantity of
matter of which it is to be composed is given." To
expedite the erection of the building the stones were
hewn and fitted to each other on shore, and after every
precaution to ensure security had been taken, the work
was completed in October, 1759.

Thefollowing occurence is related as havingtaken place
during its construction. " Louis the XIV. being at war
with England while the work was proceeding with, a
French privateer took the men at work on the Eddystone
rocks, together with their tools, and carried them to
France, the captain expecting a reward for the achieve-
ment. While the captives lay in prison, the transaction
came to the knowledge of the French monarch, who
immediately ordered the prisoners to be released and
the captors to be confined in their stead, declaring that
though he was at war with England he was not so with
mankind. He therefore directed the men to be sent back
to their work with presents."

With the exception of the lantern, which is of cast
iron and copper, the Lighthouse is entirely of stone, the
outside being of granite, and the several floors vaulted.

The body of the building is circular in plan, the
diameter of the base being 26 feet, and that of the top
immediately below the gallery 15 feet. The height,
from the bottom of the lowest course of stone-work to
the gallery level is 70 feet. Above the gallery rises the
octagonal lantern, 24 feet high, making a total altitude

o s /o to .jo 40 fojb

IP L AN" AND S ECTIOK

OF

THE EDDYS TONE LIGHT HOUSE

SI RANGER S GUIDE. 109

of 94 feet. An elevation and section are given, by
which a correct knowledge of the external form and
internal construction and arrangement may be obtained.
By the etched portion of the section, it will be seen
that the building is perfectly solid up to the level A,
where is the entrance passage. The verticle opening B
is occupied by a spiral stair-flight leading to the lower
store-room C. The upper store-room D, the kitchen
E, and the bed-room F, are successively approached by
step ladders. G is the gallery, and H the lantern.

The great body of the Eddystone Lighthouse, as
before observed, is constructed of granite and Portland
stone, the latter being employed only to fill up the
solid parts of the interior. There are in the height from
the rock to the gallery 40 entire courses of masonry,
and several incomplete ditto, necessary to connect the
building with the slanting surface of its foundation.
The stones average a ton weight each. Those on the
same level are all dovetailed together, something after
the mode of a dissected toy map ; and the successive
courses are attached to each other by means of square
marble blocks, (called joggles, or dowels) which project
one half of their solidity into the course below, and the
other half into the course above. By this, and other
assistant means, so firm a bond is maintained both
horizontally and vertically, that the building may be
regarded as " one entire and perfect " substance. To
resist the lateral pressure two iron binding chains encircle
the building at the springing ef each floor vault, and
every additional precaution has been taken to render the
structure not less proof against the slow workings of
ordinary decay, than against the sudden attacks of
of tempestuous fury. The curvelinear outlines of its
vertical section, as well as the circular form of its plan,
contribute much to dissipate the force of wave and wind,,
nor is it, finally, unreasonable to suppose, that, with
slight occasional repair, the Eddystone Lighthouse will
exist, as long as the rock on which it stands shall continue

H

110 EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE.

to form an unshaken foundation. Such of our readers
as desire a more perfect acquaintance with this extra-
ordinary building should consult the noble folio volume
published by Mr. Smeaton in 1813. Mr. Smeaton's
narrative is therein "set down with as much mode-ty as
cunning;" and the pious humility of the architect is
evinced in the following inscription on a course of granite
round the upper store room : —

" EXCEPT THE LORD BUILD THE HOUSE
"THEY LABOUR IN VAIN THAT BUILD IT

" Psalm cxxvii. "

Over the easrside of the lantern are the words

" 24th Augt. 1759.

" Laus Deo."

At first there were only two light-keepers ; but an
incident of a very distressing nature shewed the necessity
of an additional hand. One of the two keepers died ;
the dilemma in which this occurence left the survivor
was singularly painful ; apprehensive that if he threw
the body into the sea, (the only way in his power to
dispose of it) he might be charged with murder, he was
induced for some time to retain the corpse in hopes that
the attending-boat might relieve him from the distress he
was in. It was near a -month before the boat could
effect a landing. To such a degree was the whole
building infected with the putridity of the corpse, that
it was immediately on the entrance of the witnesses
thrown into the sea.

Three men are now stationed here, each of whom has,
in the summer, a month's leave to visit his friends..
They are provided with food and all other necessaries by
a boat appointed for that purpose ; but they are always
stocked with salt provisions, to guard against the
possibility of want, as in winter it sometimes happens
that the boat cannot approach the rock for many weeks
together.

stranger's guide. Ill

Gilpin observes, "in high winds so briny an atmos-
phere surrounds this gloomy solitude, from the dashing
of the waves, that a person exposed to it could hardly
draw his breath. At these dreadful intervals the forlorn
inhabitants keep close quarters, and are obliged to live
in darkness listening to the howling storm, excluded in
every emergency from the hope of human assistance,
and without any earthly comfort but that which results
from their confidence in the strength of the building in
which they are immured. In fine weather they just
scramble about the edge of the rock when the tide ebbs,
and amuse themselves with fishing ; and this is the only
employment they have, except that of trimming their
nightly fires. " Smeaton, in speaking of one of these
light-keepers, says, "In the fourteen years that he had
been here he was grown so attached to the place, that
for the two summers preceding he had given up his
turn on shore to his companions, and declared his
intention of doing the same the third; but was over-
persuaded to go on shore and take his month's turn.
He bad always in this service proved himself a decent,
sober, well-behaved man ; but he no sooner got on shore
than he gave himself up to intoxication. In this state
he was carried on board the Eddystone boat, and
delivered in the light-house, where he was expected to
grow sober. He lingered a few days and expired ! n
Among other of Mr. Smeaton's anecdotes is the following.
" A shoemaker was engaged to be the light-keeper.
When in the boat, the skipper said, " How happens it,
friend Jacob, that you should choose to be cooped up
here as a light-keeper, when you can on shore earn half-
a-crowm and three shillings a day in making leathern
hose (leathern pipes so called) ; whereas the light-keeper's
salary is but 25/. a year, which is scarce ten shillings a
week?" "Every one to his taste," replied Jacob
promptly, " I go to be a light-keeper, because I don't
like confinement"

The duties paid by ships passing the Lighthouse are
collected at all the neighbouring ports, and are as follow :

112 EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE.

upon all British ships outward or homeward bound, on
or from foreign voyages, one penny per ton ; one shilling
per vessel from all coasters ; and double these sums on
foreign ships when they come into British ports : the
king's ships are all exempt,

113

MOUNT EDGCUMBE

Will, of course, be one of the first objects claiming the
particular attention of the stranger, to whom the grounds
are kindly open, under certain restrictions. The gate-
keepers have strict orders to refuse admission to any
party bringing baskets or bundles, containing provisions
of any sort; nor will bands of music, nor a numerous
attendance of servants, be permitted to enter the grounds.

No person on horseback or in a carriage can be
admitted at the lower gate, but those who wish to drive
or ride round the park must go up the turnpike road,
and enter at the higher lodge, after putting down their
names in a book at the lower lodge.

The Plymouth sojourner has the option of proceeding
to Mount Edgcumbe by water from the foot of the Hoe;
or of merely crossing the ferry from Stonehouse. If he
proceed from Devonport, he will embark at the foot of
Mount Wise. In choosing either of the two latter means,
he will have a tine water view of the new Victualling
Establishment on his left.

On arriving at the lodge, the visitor will observe the
House terminating the perspective of a noble avenue,
formed by two double rows of elm trees.

Near the lodge, on the left, is the Italian Garden,
characterised by all the peculiarities of the style whence
its name is derived, viz. the central fountain with its
caryatidal vase of marble; regular walks, diverging
therefrom ; an orangery of Palladian design, opposed
by a balustered terrace ; and a select party of the
Heathen family occupying their uniformly arranged
pedestals.

The statues of Apollo, Venus, and Bacchus, will be
recognised in their elevated position on the terrace.
Others of Flora, Ceres, the Discobolus, and Antinous, -
h 3

114 stranger's guide.

decorate the lower ground. In a niche under the
central figure is placed a bust of Ariosto, and beneath
it are inscribed the following lines from that poet : —

" Vicino al lido, donde a poco a poco
Si vasalendo in verso il colle araeno,
Cedri, e naranci, e lauri, e mirti il loco
E mille altri soavi arbori han pieno.
Serpillo, e persa, e rose, e gigli, e croco,
Spargon dalP odorifero terreno
Tanta soavita, che in mar sentire
La fa' ogni vento, che de terra spire."

A physical translation of which is afforded in the scene
around. The orange trees are among the finest in
England.

The visitor is next shewn the French Flower Garden,
a little square enclosure, bounded by a hedge of ever-
green oak and bay, and laid out in a parterre, with a
bason and^'e£ d'eau in the midst, issuing from rock-work
intermixed with shells, and surrounded by berceaux and
arches of trellis twined over by all sorts of creeping
plants. One side of the garden is occupied by an
octagonal room opening on each side into conservatories.
A picture at the back of the room, being removed,
discovers a beautiful little statue of Meleager, behind
which a glass is so placed as to reflect all the garden,
and create, from a little distance, a pleasing illusion.
This figure is answered by another of Mercury, placed
opposite to it, outside the enclosure, and only seen in
perspective under the arches, and through a circle of
trellis work. In the border, on one side, a singularly
fine magnolia should be remarked : opposite to it, on
the other, is erected a cenotaph to the memory of Sophia,
Countess of Mount Edgcumbe, who held this spot in
peculiar favour. The Countess died in 1806.

Sated with Italy and France, we next hail with
unusual welcome the unrestrained aspect of the English
Flower Garden, with its " happy accidents," and de-
ceptive boundaries, its beds of shrubs and flowers, and

MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 115

beautiful trees, amongst which some extraordinarily fine
magnolias, of unusual size, cedars both of Libanus and
Virginia, and several cork trees, ought particularly to be
remarked. A bench presents the following lines from
Cowper : —

" Prospects, however lovely, may be seen
Till half their beauties fade ; the wearied eye
Too well acquainted with their charms, slides off
Fastidious, seeking less familiar scenes.
Then snug enclosures in some shelter'd spot,
Where frequent hedges intercept the eye,
Delight us, happy to renounce awhile,
Not senseless of its charms, what still we love,
That such short absence may endear it more."

In this garden is a handsome pavilion, comprising a
vestibule, with a small room on each side, both very
tastefully fitted up, the one as a study, the other as a
boudoir. Behind these is a dressing-room, communi-
cating with a bath, in which hot and cold water are
poured from the mouths of two bronze dolphins into a
capacious marble basin.

A narrow and almost hidden path, winds down into
a small quarry or excavation, thickly overshadowed with
high evergreens, and overspread with ivy and other low
plants, through which the natural rock of the soil peeps
out on all sides : in this little obscure recess are placed
a number of antique cinerary urns and sarcophagi, dis-
posed irregularly about the ground, and on the various
points of rock, exhibiting the appearance of a Pcoman
cemetery. At the further end, amidst the confused heap
of stones, lies a fine capital of the Corinthian order,
brought from the ruins of Alexandria.

On a point of land, which with Cremill point, oppo-
site, forms as it wTere the portal into Hamoaze, stands
the Blockhouse. It was built with two or three others,
in the reign of queen Elizabeth, for the defence of the
port, and is now a picturesque ruin, partly covered with
ivy. Against one of its sides, a plain portico of two

11*5 stranger's guide.

moorstone columns has been erected for a seat, and m
front of it is a saluting battery of twenty-one guns. A
tablet in the wall gives the following description from
Carew's Survey of Cornwall, A.D. 1602 :— -

" Both sides of the narrow entrance are fenced with
blockhouses, and that next Mount Edgcumbe was wont
to be planted with ordnance, which, at coming and
parting, with their base voices greeted such guests as
visited the house.'7

The other blockhouse here spoken of is still standing
on the opposite rocks : a modern redoubt has been
erected on the hill above it. The Mount Edgcumbe
battery was restored in 1747, and was again entirely re-
mounted in 1800, with French eight-pounders, all
purchased from prizes. The view from this spot is most
delightful, comprehending all Barnpool and the Sound,
the Island, Mount Batten, and Mewstone, with the open
sea beyond. Hence, too, a large portion of the hill,
and woods of the place itself, are seen to the greatest
advantage, with the towers of the house rising above
the trees in which it appears embosomed.

Near this is Thomson's Seat, a Doric alcove, so called
from the following apposite quotation from his poems.

" On either hand
Like a long wint'ry forest, groves of masts
-hot up their spires ; the bellying sheet between
Possess'd the breezy void : the sooty hulk
Steer'd sluggish on : the splendid barge along
Ilow'd regular, to harmony : around,
The boat, light skimming, streatch'd its oary wings,
While deep the various voice of fervent toil
From bank to bank increas'd ; whence ribb'd with oak
To bear the British thunder, black and bold,
The roaring vessel rush'd into the main."

The visitor is now conducted to a gate of exit from
the Gardens, and left by the guide to pursue, alone, his
course through the grounds.

Following the margin of the water he crosses, what
may be termed the proscenium of a " woody threatre/'

MOUNT EDCCUMRE. 117

on the southern side of which is an Ionic monopteral
temple, inclosing a bust of Milton and the following
descriptive lines: —

" Over head up grew
Insuperable height of loftiest shade,
Cedar, and fir, and pine, and branching palm,
A sylvan scene : and as the ranks ascend
Shade above shade, a woody theatre
Of stateliest view,"

Amongst the fine trees which adorn this valley, several
tulip trees, oriental and occidental plants of a remarkable
size, a large cedar of Libanus, and a Carolina poplar of
extraordinary height, ought particularly to be noticed.

The visitor is now left unperplexed with gratuitous
description, to enjoy the varieties of rock, wood, declivity,
and ascent, which lead onwards to the Artificial Ruin,
loftily situated on his right, and which he should not, on
any slight account, fail to ascend. A few steps lead to
a secure and convenient landing, from which he will
overlook a panorama of singular extent, variety, and
beauty. Of its more proximate features, the darkly
embowered entrance into the cavernous grove on the
south, may possibly strike him as most remarkable.
Below this is the Cottage, notable as a specimen of its
style, and as romantically situated as a poetical wanderer
could desire. Anticipating fatigue, we may here inform
him that " a chair is at his service."

The visitor will next be directed how, by means of a
winding path cut round a precipice, he may ascend to
the Great Terruce through a rugged and " ivy-clad "
archway. A stone seat close by, on the edge of an
almost perpendicular precipice, commands a fine view
over the Sound immediately at his feet, with the open
sea to the right; St. Nicholas' Island, Plymouth, &c.
to the left. At this place are the principle ascent and
descent to the Zigzag Walks, which are cut in the side
of the hill both above and below7 the terrace, extending
upwards to Redding Point, where he enters the park,
and downwards as low as the cliff is practicable. Prom

118 STRANGER^ GUIDE.

the number and intricacy of these walks, it is not possible
to describe them accurately, or give directions what
paths to pursue : but every part of them is extremely
beautiful, and almost every turn discovers some fresh
view, from the variety of the rocks which form the coast,
and from the different openings caught through the
trees and shrubs. The new, or Upper Zigzags, are, if
possible, still more beautiful than the lower: the cliff in
parts being more abrupt, the shrubs more luxuriant, and
the views, from the height whence they are seen, more
magnificent and commanding. At the very summit, a
bench, placed on a prominent point of rock, overlooks
the whole side of the almost perpendicular precipice,
clothed with its rich covering of arbutus and other ever-
greens, which seem to dip their branches into the sea
beneath.

Following the terrace, the visitor winds onward
towards the right, and suddenly enters Picklecomhe, a
regularly formed valley receding from Cawsand Bay,
having, at the inner extremity of its curve, a small
artificial ruin, in which is a seat, from whence the eye
passes through the valley's length and rests upon the ma-
rine expanse beyond. Having made the circuit of this
little valley, the stranger comes in sight of Hoe-lake
Valley, at the bottom of which, amid a cluster of trees,
stands a cottage, picturesque in style and furnished with
deer skins, antlers, and other park emblems. Ascending
the hill northward, we arrive at Maker Church, by which
the visitor may proceed a short way homeward, if his
time be limited : otherwise he should enter the park,
round which the pleasure grounds extend, and follow the
grass drive, which is carried round the whole summit of
the hill, and conducts straight forward to Redding Point.
An expanse of open sea here bursts upon the sight,
confined by Staddon Heights and the Mewstone on the
left, and on the right by Penlee Point, under which lies
Cawsand Bay, with the little town from whence it takes
its name. The Breakwater appears immediately in front,

MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 119

and in clear weather the Eddystone light-house is visible,
at a great distance in the offing.

The path continues northward to an alcove on the
summit of the hill called the White Scat, from which
you overlook Ilamoaze, and the whole course of the
river Tamar as high as the town of Saltash; the ships
in the harbour ; the dock-yard, and town of Devonport;
the church and village of Stoke ; the Military Hospital;
Stonehouse, with the Naval Hospital and Marine
Dai racks ; the Citadel and churches of Plymouth ;
Saltram, the seat of the earl of Morley; Catwater, with
its shipping, enclosed by Mount Batten ; St. Nicholas'
Island, the Sound, and Staddon Heights beyond it : the
whole view is bounded by a range of lofty hills, among
which the round top of Hingston (or Hengist) Down,
the peaked head of Brent Tor, and the irregular summits
of Dartmoor, are conspicuous.

From the White Seat the visitor may proceed west-
ward towards the upper gate, observing the thickly
planted grove which nobly crowns Mount Edgcumbe,
and forms its most distinguishing feature wdien viewed as
a distant object from the country around. The Shrubbery
and Home Terrace are also well worthy of the visitor's
notice ; but as the beauties they disclose are not dis-
tinctively peculiar, we shall not dwell upon them. " The
grounds occupy an area of about three miles in cir-
cumference, including the whole peninsula between
Hamoaze and the Sound."

The house was erected about the year 1550, in the
castellated style, battlemented, with round towers at the
corners ; but these were pulled down in the middle of
the last century, and rebuilt in their present octangular
form. The hall, originally Gothic, has long been
modernized, and is now a handsome lofty room of two
stories, with galleries supported by columns of Devon-
shire marble. The chimney-pieces, tables, and terms,
bearing busts of Italian workmanship copied from the
antique, exhibit fine specimens of various Cornish
Granites.

120 stranger's guide.

An extensive addition has been made, at different
times, to the west end, containing, among other con-
venient apartments, a large library and a dining-room.

The paintings at Mount Edgcumbe chiefly consist of
portraits ; among which are those of the first earl of
Sandwich; his daughter, lady Anne, and her husband,
Sir Richard Edgcumbe ; all by Sir Peter Lely. A
curious portrait of Margaret Edgcumbe, maid-of-honour
to queen Elizabeth, represented in widow's weeds ; and
who was, when the picture was painted, in the sixty-
eighth year of her age, and the forty-eighth of her widow-
hood. Portraits of Charles I. the duke of Monmouth,
Charles II. James II. prince Rupert, and William III.
The following are by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Richard
the first baron Edgcumbe, Richard the second baron,
George, created earl of Mount Edgcumbe, and Emma
his countess.

" In the parliamentary wars," says Mr. Rowe, " Mount
Edgcumbe was distinguished for its loyal adherence to
the cause of Charles I. It was occupied as one of the
royal fortresses, and claims the honour of having held
out longer than any other in Devon, except Salcombe.
It was surrendered to Col. Hammond, 21st April, 1646."

Maker, Caws and, Rame, Bliilbrook, &c.

The vicinity west and south west of Mount Edgcumbe
is worthy the notice of residents and such visitors as can
afford the time. The following is, with certain curtail-
ments and a few additions, chiefly taken from a former
Guide Book published by Mr. Rowe.

We shall commence the present excursion from Cremill
ferry, and follow the turnpike through the demesne of
Mount Edgcumbe, to Maker church, the tower of which,
commanding a view of the open sea and harbour, from
its elevated situation has been used, during war, as a
station for making signals to the fort of Mount- Wise.
Although nature seems so distinctly to have marked the

MAKER, CAWS AND, ETC. 121

boundaries of the counties by the waters of the Tamar,
some unknown reason has assigned a large portion of
the parish of Maker to Devonshire. The church, a neat
fabric of some antiquity, consists of a nave, chancel,
and two side ailes. The principal monuments are those
of the Edgcumbe family, to which the presentation
of the church belongs. Leaving the church we follow a
path through the fields, and observe the neat vicarage,
pleasantly situated on a gentle declivity. From this,
passing to the small hamlet of Maker, noted only for its
tea-houses, we speedily arrive at Maker heights, where a
number of redoubts, mounted with heavy ordnance,
were constructed during the American war. These are
furnished with barracks; command Cawsand Bay, Mill-
brook Lake, and the adjacent country ; and are garri-
soned in time of war, with troops from the regiments at
Plymouth. By a steep and difficult road we descend to
the town formed by Cawsand, and Kingsand — the latter
in Devon, the former in Cornwall; a small brook form-
ing at the same time the boundary of the two towns, the
parishes of Rame and Maker, and the two counties,
This place has partaken largely in the prosperity which
the whole district owes to the naval establishments of the
neigbourhood. In Carew's time it consisted only of a
few fishermen's huts ; it now contains above three hun-
dred houses, many of them large and well built. Its
support, which in time of war was principally derived
from the number of ships that resorted to the Bay, is
chiefly dependent on the Pilchard Fisheries. On a rocky
eminence, which rises near the centre of Cawsand, are
the vestiges of a fortification, at present called the Bul-
warks: it was originally mounted with ordnance. Tra-
dition records, that Henry VII. when asserting his
claim to the English throne as earl of Ptichmond, landed
at Cawsand ; but being informed, while refreshing him-
self after his voyage, that a strict watch was kept at
Plymouth for his apprehension, he re-embarked to seek
a more favourable port.

i

122 stranger's guide.

The Plantations and carriage road, extending along
the eastern side of the hill above Kingsand and Cawsand
and around Penlee point, are the chief features of many
extensive improvements lately effected by Lord Valletort.
At some distance above the road is Penlee Beacon, a
lofty obelisk conspicuous as a land mark for mariners ;
and l* on the bold headland of Penlee, accessible by a
foot path which diverges from the carriage road above
mentioned," has been erected a picturesque little Gothic
building, called Adelaide Chapel, in honor of her
present Majesty, who, with King William — then Lord
High Admiral, visited the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe in
1827, and made frequent excursions to this her favo-
rite spot. We next reach Rame Head, well known as
one of the most prominent head-lands on the southern
coast of the kingdom. " On this exposed elevation
stands a ruined chapel, built of the same stone as that
which forms the cliffs, and probably the work of some
mariner, who dedicated it to a patron saint in gratitude
for his escape from the dangers of the ocean." From
this point we shall direct our course to Rame church
and village, situated on the declivity of the hill, whose
southern side opposes a precipitous cliff to the sea.
Leaving Rame by the public road that leads to Cawsand,
we proceed till we arrive at a lane that branches off to
the left, and which will conduct us to a path over some
high ground, commanding extensive views of the vicinity.
In our descent on the opposite side of the hill, towards
Maker, we gain a pleasing view of the town of Cawsand,
at the bottom of a fertile vale, with the blue waters of
the bay beyond. Having entered the Maker turnpike-
road in our progress towards Millbrook, we observe the
new feChapel-of-Ease, which was erected by voluntary
subscription, aided by a grant from the commissioners
for building churches and chapels. The site was given
by the earl of Mount Edgcumbe, and the chapel conse-
crated by the lord bishop of Exeter in October, 1827.
Millbrook, pleasantly situated in a sheltered bottom,

SB ARROW GROT. 123

at the head of a creek branching out of llamoaze,
contains above two hundred houses, many of them well
built, and agreeably situated, enjoying pleasing views
of the creek, Mount Edgcumbe, and the surrounding
country. Proceeding west of Millbrook towards the
sea, and having passed the estate of Freathy, we shall
arrive at

Sharrow Grot,

an artificial excavation in the cliffs at Whitsand Bay.
The cavern is fifteen feet deep and seven high, with an
arched roof and benches entirely hewn out of the solid
rock, by the Herculean labour of the uncle of the late
Joseph Lugger, esq. who, in consequence of adopting
this singular prescription, is said to have successfully
resisted the attacks of the gout. The sides of the grotto
are inscribed with verses descriptive of the surrounding
scenery; over the entrance is engraven these words from
the /Eneid — " vivo sedilia Saxo;" and the spot com-
mands a vast expanse of ocean, stretching beyond the
head-lands, which form the boundaries of the bay. On
the beach below Sharrow Grot are the remains of
Sharrow Palace, (as it was called) a house of refuge for
fishermen which once stood there. One of the corners
of this building may be still seen on a detached mass of
rock, and around it are numerous traces of walls
becoming gradually less distinct as they are washed by
the ocean-tempests of succeeding winters. In the per-
pendicular rock above these remains is aline of grooves
dug at regular distances, and which, most probably, were
occupied by the ends of the beams that originally
supported the roof of the building.

In returning we leave Millbrook on the left, and
pursue our tour towards the naval brewery, at South
Down, situated on the peninsula of Ince worth. This
manor originally formed part of the extensive domains
I of the earls of Cornwall. In Risdon's time it was aa
princely place, both for amenity and commodity ;" and

i 2

124 stranger's guide.

vestiges of the former importance of the manor-house
are still to be traced among the buildings at Inceworth
farm. The most perfect remains of the ancient structure
will be found in a Gothic chapel, at present used as a
granary.

The path from Millbrook to South Down is carried
along the margin of the creek, the which being crossed
we shall land at Anderton, and pursue a path through
rich pasture lands, and the skirts of Mount Edgcumbe
grounds. At high-water this walk will be found very
pleasing, for the various prospects on both sides of
Hamoaze, Devonport, Torpoint, &c. which it affords.
After passing numerous neat dwellings we reach Impa-
combe ; where having noticed the entrance to the
kitchen gardens of Mount Edgcumbe3 and crossed the
path-field in which the obelisk is placed on an eminence
above Ilamoaze, we once more arrive at Cremili-fcrry.

125

SALTRAM, LARY BRIDGE, &c.

Saltram, the seat of the Earl of Morley, has para-
mount claims upon the visitor's early notice, derived not
less from the internal riches of the mansion, than from
the external beauties by which it is surrounded. The
ready permission granted by the noble and liberal pro-
prietor to all who are desirous of viewing the house and
grounds, and the marked attention and courtesy with
which all respectable visitors are received, demand our
gratitude and admiration.

The mansion is situate at some distance from the new
London Road (which passes over the Lary Bridge), and
about 3 miles from the Royal Hotel, Plymouth. If the
visitor proceed by carriage, he will leave Plymouth by
its eastern exit, and continue along the high road till he
approaches the Elizabethan residence of J. Johnston,
Esq. distinguished by its barge-board gables and other
picturesque features of that style, which we rejoice to
see is once more gaining favour in its native land.
Here, instead of following the direct line, the visitor will
branch off towards the right, and, passing over Lary
Bridge, he will arrive, by a road turning short round
to the left, at the Lodge at Chelson Meadow. In the
event of going by water, wTe embark from the Barbican
at Sutton Pool, and proceed along the harbour of
Catwater, between the Quarries of Catdown on the
left, and Oreston, &c. on the right, passing under the
Lary Bridge, and landing at the water lodge, which
will be observed, embowered in foliage, at a considerable
distance up, on the right hand side of the Estuary.
Should walking be preferred, the pedestrian will cross
the mouth of Sutton Pool at the Barbican and inquire
his way towards Lary Bridge over Catdown, from the
elevation of which are pleasing prospects of Mount

i 3

126 stranger's guide.

Edgcumbe, Plymouth Citadel, the Sound, and the
country on the opposite side of Catwater, whose entrance,
it will be observed is distinguished by Mount Batten
and its circular watch tower, erected to defend the
harbour, and the scene of much bloodshed during the
civil wars. It is now used by the harbour-master as a
look-out station, and has a flag-staff erected for the
purpose of making signals to notify the appearance of
vessels in the offing. A path across the isthmus which
connects Mount Batten with the main land leads to
Turnchapel, the dock-yard at which place is the property
of the Earl of Morley, and is far superior to any in the
port, having been used for the construction and repair
of ships of war. The Armada, of 74 guns, was launched
from this yard in 1810, and the Clarence, 74, at a later
period.

Extending eastward from Mount ^Batten are the
villages of Turnchapel, Hooe, and Oreston, with the
several charming residences of Bellevue, (Mrs. Bulteel.)
— Radford, (J. Harris, Esq.) — Thorn Cottage, (C.
Harris, Esq.), and others, in the parish of Plymstock.
The village of Plymstock is in the unseen rear. In its
church are an elaborately carved screen of gold and
coloured tracery, and several monuments of the family
of Harris, of Radford, and others recording the names
of Bulteel, Bellamy, &c.

Oreston quarries supply the stone for the Breakwater.
The rock will bear a fine polish, and being beautifully
veined, is used for chimney-pieces, tables, and many
ornamental purposes. The ground, containing twenty-
five acres, was purchased from the Duke of Bedford,
the lord of the manor of Plymstock, for ten thousand
pounds. The quarries were opened on the 7th of
August, 1812 ; and in proceeding with the work an
extraordinary phenomenon was discovered in the very
body of the marble rock. "At the depth of sixty
feet from the summit, and twenty-five from the margin
of the sea, a cavity or rather a nodule of clay was

SALTRAM, LA11Y BRIDGE, ETC. 127

discovered, about twenty-five feet long, and twelve
square; in the midst of which were found numerous
bones and teeth of the rhinoceros, wolf, deer, cow, horse,
&c. in a more perfect state, and containing less animal
matter in them than any fossil bones that had yet been
dug out of rock or earth. It should seem from the very
considerable quantity that has been collected, as if they
had been brought here at different times since the first
formation of the rock, by the beasts of prey which
occasionally took possession of the cavern. This con-
jecture is much strengthened by the shattered appearance
of the ends of many of the bones, which seem as if they
had been gnawed and broken by the teeth of some
animal. But as to their being antediluvian or not, or to
what period of the world they might be assigned, must
be left to those who are better informed to determine."

The Lary Bridge

will now claim the earnest attention of every person of
taste or science. On a block of granite, at the northern
extremity, is the following inscription : —

HUNC PONTEM

SENATUS AUCTORITATE SUSCEPTUM

NOVAS ET COMMODAS VIAS

RECLUDENTUM

JOHANNES COMES DE MORLEY

SUIS SUMPT1BLTS

STRUENDUM CURAVIT.

OPUS INCHOATUM A.D. 1824.

ABSOLUTUM A.D. 1827.

J. M. RENDEL, ARCHITECTO.

The Bridge is 500 feet in length between the abut-
ments, and the curve of the road is formed by a radius of
4670 feet. Its elevation exhibits five arches of cast-iron
— the central 100 feet span, rising 14 feet 6 inches above
high- water mark. Those next on either side are 95 feet
each, and rise 1 3 feet 3 inches. The extreme arches are 8 1

128 stranger's guide.

feet, and rise 10, giving the road-way, which is 25 feet
in width, a gentle curve. Owing to the great depth of
the loose sandy bed of the Lary, and the rapidity of the
tide, much care was necessary in preparing and preser-
ving the foundations, which were laid from 5 to 6 feet
below the level of the river. As a protection against
land-floods, &c. an artificial bottoming, composed of
materials which had been proved by experiment to con-
solidate under water into a mass as indestructible as
many indurated rocks, was laid quite across the river at the
site of the bridge. Care was taken to keep this bottom-
ing, which was placed at a late period of the work, below
the natural bed of the river, and complete success has
attended all the operations, as is proved by the fact, that
not the least settlement has taken place.

The more peculiar features of this Bridge are as
follow : viz. — The elliptical form of the arches, which
is continuous with the curve of the abutments, instead
of the usual angular union between segmental arches
and upright piers : — Secondly, the termination of the
stone piers, at the springing of the arches, whereby the
connexion of the iron superstructure is uninterruptedly
preserved.

For further particulars connected with this elegant
structure, which does equal honour to the taste and
science of its architect, Mr. Rendel, see " Transactions
of the Plymouth Institution :v vol. 1. art. 3.

Crossing the Bridge, we turn immediately to the left
and enter Chelson Meadow through a lodge gate. The
rectilinear embaukment stretching across to the second
gate is 2910 feet in length. The flat meadow on the
right (comprising 175 acres of rich land) was recovered,
by means of this embankment, from the waters which
formerly constituted Chelson Bay. This important
measure was effected by the present Earl of Morley,
who received, in consequence, a gold medal from the
Society of Arts.

On this meadow the Plymouth Races are held. The
Stand is seen at some distance on the right.

SALTRAM, LARY BRIDGE, ETC. 129

Leaving the race ground, the visitor will enter through
a second gate the Saltram grounds. The road directly
on by the water's side communicates with the old
London road at Long Bridge : the branch road on the
right conducts to the house.

Saltram House,

erected early in th^last century by Lady Catherine
Parker, is a spacious edifice in the Palladian style of
architecture, and has been much improved by the pre-
sent Earl of Morley, aided by the professional taste of
Mr. Foulstone. It contains a noble range of apartments,
among which the Great Saloon, conspicuous for scale
and splendour, exhibits a ceiling painted by Zucchi.
The dining-room ceiling and walls are also painted by
the same artist, and the drawing-room, library, and
staircase are of a truly palatial character. A catalogue
of the pictures which enrich these several apartments is
published, and may be had at the house, or from
Mr. Nettleton, the publisher of this work. We there-
fore deem it unnecessary to make little more than a
general allusion to the fact, that many of the first masters
of ancient and modern times are here represented. The
leading feature of the grand Saloon, is a large Baccha-
nalian subject by Titian ; and in the same apartment are
choice pictures by Guerchino, Rubens, Vandyke, Paul
Veronese, and two views by Canaletti, (one representing
part of the Doge's Palace, and the other the entrance
into the arsenal of Venice) which have more than the
usual great merit of their celebrated author. There is a
mellow grandeur in their colouring, which gives them
a charm apart from that of their architectural character,
and renders them worthy of a visit on their own distinct
merits. The staircase is distinguished by a noble picture
of "The Assumption" by Sabbatini, and with several
paintings by Angelica Kauffman. The library is en-
riched with an interesting series of portraits by Reynolds ;

130 stranger's guide.

and the drawing-room manifests the artistical accomplish-
ments of the Countess of Morley, whose copies from
the Flemish and other masters are remarkable for their
feeling and fidelity. In addition to the names already
mentioned, the catalogue exhibits those of M. A. Cam-
pidoglio, Bassano, Guido, Lingelback, Domenichino,
Sassoferrato, Karel du Jardin, Vandervelde, Poussin,
Salvator, Borgognone, Jordaens, Orizonti, Teniers,
Palamedes, Caravaggio, (whose picture of the " Tribute
Money " will claim especial regard) Mile, Dalens, Both,
Weenix, Albano, Wouverman, Hoet, Caracci, Breughel,
Fyt, Elsheimer, Lutherbourgh, Scalkin, Polidore, Bril,
Mengs, Baroccio, Jansen, Meulen, Carlo Dolce,
Coreggio, A. Del Sarto, Berghem, Cyp, Artois,
Ricchardelli, Vanuden, Panini, Swanevelt, Beek, Mor-
land, Roos, Sneyders, Kneller, Northcote, Tomkins,
Phillips, Stuart, Johns, Barker, Rogers, Garvey, &c.
&c. &c. If another picture may be particularised, we
would most pointedly refer to the " Methodist Meeting,'*
by Egbert Hemskerk, and worthy of Hogarth himself.
The busts and sculpture of the collection greatly add to
its value.

The pleasure gardens are suited to the house ; and,
as one of the more remarkable objects in the surrounding
grounds, we may mention the picturesque skreen of
three lofty arches, which forms so singular and pleasing
a picture when viewed from the high road on the
opposite side of the estuary.

A road behind the house leads to the lodge at New
Bridge, whence the old London road passes onward to
Ridgway. New Bridge is at this time being re-edified,
the old bridge having been not less remarkable for its
inconvenience than for its picturesque character. Here
the river Plym joins the salt waters of the Lary estuary.
Nearer Plymouth are the fir-clad rocks of Crabtree,
bearing on their summit the remains of a fort. At the
base of the rock is the cottage retreat of D. Derry,
Esq. A short distance nearer Plymouth we enter a

SALTRAM, LARl BRIDGE, ETC. 131

new road, occupying part of the land recovered from
the Lary waters by the lofty mole which extends from
gate to gate, and which, ha\ingbeen constructed by the
Plymouth Embankment Company, was opened to the
public on the 25th October, 1809. Here will be
noticed the neat cottage dwellings of Lara Green.
Further inland are the residences of E. Clarke, Esq.
and G. Soltau, Esq. and the village of Lipson, through
which passes the old Plymouth road. Still nearer
Plymouth, above and below the old road, are Woodside ;
Tothill ; Beaumont House, the residence of T. Bewes.
Esq. M.P. ; and Green Bank, belonging to C. Tolcher,
Esq. a zealous patron of the Arts, and the possessor,
among other riches, of two remarkably fine pictures
by Claude.

A few additional notes are subjoined, descriptive of
the country beyond Sal tram. Boringdon is situate at
some distance north of the old London road. The house
was the family mansion of the Earl of Morley's ancestors,
before the building of Saltram, and though now occupied
as a farm-house, still retains indication of its ancient
importance.

Near Boringdon Park are Elfordleigh, (the mansion
of W. Langmead, Esq.) and Newnham Park, an ancient
seat of the Strode family. The other leading residences
of the vicinity, are Hemerdon, (G. Woollcombe, Esq.)
— Goodamoor, (P. T. Treby, Esq.)— Beechwood, (R.
Rosdew, Esq.) — Chaddlewood, (W. H. Symons, Esq.)
&c.

The most prominent object on the London road, after
leaving Saltram at New Bridge, is the church of
Plympton St. Mary, distinguished by a fair degree of
architectural beauty, aud not less by the condition of
cleanliness and good repair, for which it is indebted to
the zealous curatorship of its present minister, the
Rev. W. J. Coppard. It was originally the conventual

132 straxNGer's glide.

church of Plympton Priory,* founded in the year 1100,
and acknowledged as the richest monastery in Devonshire.
Its architectural style is the perpendicular Gothic, which
prevailed from 1350 to 1450. This church in its widest
part exhibits the unusual number of five aisles, making
a transverse extent of 90 feet. The building wants
altitude; but otherwise there is much to admire, par-
ricularly the tower, which contains six fine bells. The
most beautiful feature of the interior is the monument
of Richard Stode, Esq. comprising an effigy, recumbent
upon a richly sculptured base, and beneath a triple-
arched canopy of bold design. " About 25 years ago,
an ancient stone pulpit, panelled and carved, stood in
the nave ; it was affixed to the second pier from the
chancel, on the north side. Spiral stone steps led up
to it, and it stood upon a stone pedestal. At that time
the church was new seated, and it was thought necessary
to alter the position of the pulpit, which was taken
down broken to pieces and put under the sleepers of the
flooring of the new pews ! A plain painted deal one
now stands in the nave, somewhat nearer the chancel. "
" So much," says Mr. Coppard, "for leaving the
repairs of churches to the management of church-
wardens, whose irreparable mischief among some of the
most interesting features of our sacred edifices, we have
daily reason to deplore ! I have much satisfaction in
stating, that owing to the judicious exertions of the
respected archdeacon of Totnes (Mr. Froude), a con-
siderable improvement is manifest in most of the
churches of this district ; and it is to be hoped that a
different tone of feeling has been given to some of those
who may be intrusted with future repairs. Yet it is to
be feared, that in the annual changes of these officers,
very few of them are capable of the undertaking ; there-
fore might it not be advisable to appoint some person of

* Some vestiges of Plympton Priory may still be traced
adjoining the church-yard, where a dwelling-house and a mill
are now called Priory,

SALTRAM, LART bridge, etc. 133

experience and judgment to superintend a certain num-
ber of churches in a district, for the purpose of better
carrying into effect the orders of the rural Dean, (where
one is nominated) or to direct the repairs and alterations
to be done in a proper manner?"

Here are monuments recording the names of Symons,
Ilayne, Woollcombe, &c. and an elegant piece of
sculpture by De Laistre, a Parisian artist, to the memory
of Henry Villiers Parker, Viscount Boringdon, the
eldest son of Lord Morley by his first lady.

Beyond Plympton Mary Church is the village of
Ridge way ; to the north, the village of Colebrook ; and
to the south, the village of Underwood.

Adjoining Plympton Mary is the ancient Borough of
Plympton, a stannary town, distinguished by its artificial
mount, the remains of a castle, and the pride of having
given birth to Sir Joshua Reynolds, whose father was
master of Plympton grammar school. The school-
building, with its gothic gables and sub-piazza will
attract attention. In the Guildhall ^inscribed with the
date of 1696), is a portrait of Reynolds by himself, and
several ancestral portraits of the Treby family.

The large square mansion east of the town, was
built in 1718 by the Right Honourable George Treby,
secretary at war. It still belongs to the family. There
is nothiug worthy of observation in the church.

134

HAIL ROAD, BICKLEIGH VALE, AND
DEWERSTONE.

It is only on horseback, or on foot, that the scenes
hereafter mentioned can be comfortably seen in continuous
succession. The several principal objects may be sepa-
rately visited in a carriage, or rail-road waggon ; but to
all horsemen the author recommends as follows : —

Proceed to Crabtree. Follow the rail-road (see page
32) till you arrive at the arched entrance into the

Tunnel,

through which the eye pierces a subterranean length of
1860 feet. Take the road to the left of the opening,
and follow the ascent and descent of the hill, till you
again reach the rail-road at the other extremity of the
Tunnel. Follow on through the woods, which will
shortly open on your right and discover a pleasing
prospect, including glimpses of the river Plym far below,
and the tree-clad hill of Saltram, &c. in the distance.
Having here paused awhile, make reasonable use of
whip or spur, until your natural admiration for scenic
splendour shall instantly prompt you to draw in your
reins : —

Cann Quarry
is before you !

With what justice this scene is deemed magnificent,
the spectator is left to say. The Plym is seen in the
profound below, and the fall of its salmon-weir distinctly
heard. Broad masses of precipitous slate-rock are
mingled with richly wooded acclivities ; and folding hills
of green, backed by the barren heights of Dartmoor,
complete the distant prospect.

The rail-road should then be followed until you reach
Fancy at the most recessed point of a " woody theatre/7

RAIL ROAD, RICKLEIGII VALE, ETC. 135

the opening perspective of which is finely commanded
from the house, seen a short distance up the hill on the
left. Instead of proceeding further along the rail-road,
the stranger is recommended to descend through the
gate, immediately opposite Fancy, and follow the road
to the bed of the valley ; then turning to the left, he
will thread the leafy mazes of the Plym, flowing past
him on his right, until he arrive at Bickleigh Bridge,
where he will quit, for a time, the river, and proceed
along a rough and hilly road towards Shaugh. Close
to Bickleigh Bridge he will find a road on the left,
leading to Bickleigh Village and Church. The latter
contains the monument and martial paraphernalia of
Sir Nicholas Slanning, a royalist warrior. Here also
are monuments recording the names of Heywood, Hunt,
and Lopes.

The traveller will at length descend into an open flat
distinguished by venerable trees, and large masses
of granite, scattered, as by some vast deluge, over its
surface. Crossing this, he will put up his horse at the
cottage and pause awhile upon Shaugh Bridge, where

" The Cad o'er rocks white flashing roars
To meet the lucid Plym."

The union of the rivers is seen close to the bridge, from
which the pyramidal Dewerstone rises, clothed in foliage.
This is unquestionably a choice specimen of that rock
and torrent scenery, for which Devonshire is so highly
celebrated. Having crossed the bridge, the visitor
should follow the road for about a quarter of a mile up
the steep hill towards Shaugh church, and then turning
off to the left, he will "plod his way" through bushes
and granite blocks till, on reaching the brow of the
descent, his admiring eye suddenly alights on the
perpendicular mass of

Dewerstone,

raising its crest of granite to a noble altitude above the
rushing torrent of the Cad, and exhibiting the most

136 stranger's guide.

striking contrasts of rocky baldness and richest verdure.
At no great distance is Shaugh church, with a tower of
hewn granite, surmounted with pinnacles. From the
hill on which the church is situated the view is varied,
extensive, and interesting, bounded by Plymouth Sound
to the south.

Having remounted his horse, the traveller proceeds
homewards on the eastern side of the river Plym,
ascending Shaugh hill, and passing along the brow of
Bickleigh vale into Shaugh wood, through which he
descends again to the river level. From hence, passing
through Cann Quarry,* which formed so striking an
object as he traversed the opposite heights on his out-
ward journey, he soon after reaches the yet unexplored
quarter of

Fiym-bridge,

where the vale suddenly expands from extreme narrow-
ness into an open amphitheatre of wood and meadow.
Jn this charming vicinity are the mansions of Leighum
and Estover. A road through the meadows, on the
eastern side of the Plym, conducts to a wood, and our
traveller ultimately emerges from these regions of
pastoral romance at New Bridge, on the high road,
about 3 miles from Plymouth.

* This noted Slate Quarry is now being worked upon an
extended scale. The material it affords is of a most approved
quality, and worthy of that increasing favour which it is so
generally obtaining.

K 2

13?

KITLEY, THE YEALM, &c.

On the peninsular tract between the mouth of the
Ply in and the estuary of the Yealm, and south of the
new line of road from the Lary Bridge to Totnes, are
Langdon Hall, the seat of C. Calmady, Esq. ; Wembury
House, belonging to Sir E. Thornton ; the cottage
residence of Thomas Lockyer, Esq. occupying an
enchanting situation on the western acclivity of the
Yealm ; and Coffleet, (the mansion of the Rev. R. Lane,)
also situated on the bank of this beautiful river.

Kitley,

however, is the great "Lion" of the neighbourhood;
important from the architectural character of the house,
and from the extreme beauty of the grounds. The latter
extend to a considerable distance north and south of the
new London road, under which there is a tunnel to
preserve the thoroughfare. The southern portion of the
grounds project into the here expanded waters of the
Yealm estuary, which has all the appearance of an
inland lake. The northern division furnishes a delightful
drive, extending nearly two miles from the house. The
latter has been for the most part rebuilt by the present
tasteful proprietor, E. P. Bastard, Esq. who has thus
afforded a choice opportunity for the display of Mr.
G. S. Repton's architectural talents. The exterior
exhibits four, differing, but self-uniform fronts, in the true
Elizabethan style. The hall, staircase, drawing-room, and
library, are the more distinguished apartments ; and, in
the saloon are some exquisite family portraits by
Reynolds. The old masters are also represented by
several choice examples.

k 3

138 stranger's guide.

South of Kitley, separated from it by an arm of the
river, is Puslinch, the residence of the Rev. J. Yonge,
participating in the scenic beauties of the spot last
mentioned ; and in the more southern vicinity is the
secluded water-village of Newton Ferrers, the hamlet of
Noss, and Membland House, the seat of J. Robertson,
Esq.

Before reaching Kitley, the high road passes through
the truly rustic village of Brixton, in the church of which
are several monuments to the Lanes, Woods, &c.
Near the church is the neat and commodious residence
of Henry Collins-Splatt, Esq. On the same road,
beyond Kitley, is the village of Yealmpton looking
down upon its church, to the south of which, is a
quarried lime-stone rock, enclosing a " cavern of extra-
ordinary extent." Tradition speaks of Ethelwold's
palace at Yealmpton. The church contains monuments
to the families of Crocker, Pollexfen, Copplestone, and
Bastard. Yealm Bridge, (with its paper-mill) further
east, will not fail to attract the notice of an artist's eye,
at least. North of the road between this and Brixton,
are Hareston and Lyneham, (belonging respectively to
the families of Winter and Bulteel,) whose opposing
woods line a secluded valley, watered by a branch
stream of the Yealm. On the river between Yealmpton
and Yealm Bridge is Torr, the residence of W. Holbe-
ton, Esq. ; and, following the course of the river, we
successively pass Lee-mill Bridge, on the upper Exeter
road, Slade, Delamore, the village of Cornwood, and
Blatchford, the seat of Sir J. L. Rogers, Bart.

139

THE ERME, IVY-BRIDGE, FLEET, cVc.

Our remarks upon the Yealm have brought us the
major part of the way between the Lary Bridge and
Ermington, where the visitor's attention will be imme-
diately drawn to the neat and cheerful appearance of
the Fawn Inn. Independently of the good accommo-
dation it affords, the main reason for recommending it,
is its very eligible situation as being central amid the
beauties of the Yealm. Ivy-bridge is unquestionably
the more striking position of the two ; and, for a sojourn
of any duration, it is more fitly to be recommended :
but, desiring the satisfaction of those whose time is
limited, we mention Ermington, as being mid-way
between two extremities on the river's course that
should be visited.

Ermington church, conspicuously situated at a short
distance north of the Hotel and Bridge, is the more
remarkable from its leaning spire. Within is a hand-
some recessed monument elaborately sculptured, with a
brass effigy of one of the Stretchleigh family. Here are
also memorials of the Sweetes, Geach, &c.

Following the river (along its western bank) towards
the sea, we pass through several pleasing meadows,
until we pause to contemplate the scenic beauties of
Sequels Bridge, over which passes the road to Mod-
bury,* about 2 miles to the east. South-west of the
Bridge, on a richly wooded eminence, is the mansion
of Fleet, the principal seat of the Bulteel family, and
pre-eminently distinguished by the charm of its situation,

* A small market town, with a spacious church. Its spire
is 134 feet high. Within is an interesting monument to one
of the Champernowne family. Adjoining the church is an
ancient chapel or chantry, which is now appropriated to the
use of the grammar-school.

140 STRANGER'S GUIDE.

and the tasteful character of its pleasure grounds. The
front seen from the Bridge, is a simple specimen of the
Adam-school of architecture, now, happily, no more :
but the entrance front, concealed from distant view by
a charmingly disposed shrubbery, may be justly quoted
as a fascinating example of the Tudoric style. From
the eastern front the grounds decline to the river, which
flows on in vallied seclusion, and is at length crossed by
a wooden bridge. Here is an entrance into the woods
on the east side of the Erme, along which (with Mr.
Bulteel's kind permission) we will make a temporary
retreat, following the embowered path until it bring us to
the Hermitage, which, taken in conjunction with the
poetic gloom of its situation close to the river below, is
a " bit " not to be overlooked. Returning to the wooden
bridge, we proceed onwards by a pleasant path, till the
river expands into an estuary, and subsequently dis-
charges its collected waters through Mothecombe harbour
into Bigbury Bay, about 5 miles S.S.W. of Ermington.
About a mile S.W. of Fleet house is Holbeton, in the
church of which are monuments, recording the names
of Perring and Bulteel; also an old monument with
the hgure of an armed knight, and numerous effigies.
South of Holbeton is Mothecombe house and hamlet.
From a clifT on the western side of Mothecombe harbour
projects a peninsula of many acres, called Mothecombe-
back, consisting of an accumulation of sand and gravel,
which has resisted the force of the waters from time
immemorial, and has a fair annually held on it.

The walk by the river from Ermington to Ivy-bridge,
(about three miles), may be regarded as a portfolio of
charming sketches, illustrating the genuine beauties of
our river scenery, premising, that, until we arrive at
Ivy-bridge, the merely " beautiful," apart from grandeur,
is to be expected.

I HE ERME, IVY-BRIDGE, FLEET, ETC. 141

Ivy-bridge,

on the upper London road, is distant from Plymouth 12
miles. The village is of more than common size
and respectability, owing to the convenience of its situa-
tion, the salubrity of its air, and the attractive character
of the rocks, woods, and torrent, which distinguish its
immediate and north-extending vicinity. Here are an
excellent Hotel, and numerous lodging-houses. A new
bridge has lately been erected for the convenience of the
stage coach ; but the veritable Ivy-bridge is still preserved
for the lovers of the picturesque. It is the province of
this work rather to direct the attention, than to rouse by
verbal stimulus the enthusiasm of the tourist; and, if
the powerful flood of old Erme's eloquence, graced with
all the poetry of rock and foliage,

' can't move the heart,

Tongues surely may be dumb.'3

It need hardly be said, that the grandeur of the scene
is much enhanced by preceding heavy rains ; though
the place is unquestionably well worth seeing at ail
times. The visitor is particularly urged to follow the
northern course of the river, through the woods of its
western bank. New combinations of the same romantic
features will successively arise to induce him onward.
Harford Bridge crosses the torrent about 2§ miles above
Ivy-bridge, whence a road conducts over a common to
Three Barrow Tor ; " a lofty elevation," says Mr. Rowe,
u so named from three huge barrows, or karns, on its
summit — supposed, from their vast size, to mark the
tomb of some eminent warrior. Having inspected these
tumuli with the attention they will not fail to excite as
mementos of remote antiquity, we shall have leisure to
enjoy the boundless landscape which this eminence
commands : from Portland in Dorsetshire to the Lizard
in Cornwall, and from the Blackdown hills in Somerset-
shire to the skirts of Dartmoor on which we stand, we

142 stranger's guide.

behold a diversified scene, displaying in its extensive
scope "the pomp of nature and the pride of man/'
Behind, the lofty peaks, the rugged tors, and purple
heaths of Dartmoor — in front, the whole South Hams,
from the Teign to the Tamar, spreading like a map at
our feet. The local beauties of the prospect are rich
tracts of cultivated land, with verdent hedge-rows,
villages, and " heaven-directed spires ; the winding
estuary of the Yealm — the more capacious harbour of
Plymouth Sound — the grove-crowned hill of Mount
Edgcumbe — Plymouth indistinctly seen through its hazy
atmosphere — and the azure expanse of the Channel
majestically bounding the whole view to the south."
The stranger will now return to Harford church, in
which is an old altar tomb with a brass effigy, to
T. Williams, Esq. 1564.; also a wooden memorial to
Bishop Prideaux. Following the eastern bank of the
river, he passes the parsonage at Lukesland Grove, and
returns by Stowford to Ivy-bridge,

143

EXCURSION TO TREMATON CASTLE,

.\ N D

PORT ELIOT.

Take a boat at North-corner, Devoiiport. In pro-
ceeding up Hamoaze, the naval power of Great Britain
will be palpably illustrated, by the vast assemblage of
ships of war lying up " iu ordinary." Opposite Morice-
town is Thanckes, the residence of Lord Graves, looking
over a lawn which declines to the water's edge. Above
Morice-town are the government Powder Magazines ;
and, beyond, the estuary of Keyham lake. Above
Thanckes is the marine village of Wilcove, situate at
the head of an inlet, and "a favourite retreat of naval
officers." In "doubling the cape" north of Wilcove,
we catch a glimpse of Saltash and the Tamar's inland
course, and pass by Beggar's Island, (a presumed retreat
of the notorious Bampfylde Moore Carew, king of the
beggars) into the mouth of the river Lynher.

Ward-house commands, from its lofty site above the
confluence of the two rivers, a prospect of vast variety.
On the opposite bank of the Tamar, below Kinterbury,
are the government gunpowder works. The town of
Saltash is about a mile up the river, built on the steep
acclivity rising therefrom. It possesses no object worthy
of particular notice except its steam ferry or floating
bridge, lately constructed by J. M. Rendel, Esq.
engineer, (see page 95) A little beyond on the left is
Anthony-house, belonging to the Rt. Hon. R. P. Carew,
and much eulogised as it regards both mansion and
grounds ; and the pictures contained in the former.
An inlet opposite to Anthony-house leads up to

144 stranger's guide.

Trematon Castle,

a conspicuous object not less interesting as an historical
monument, than as the leading feature in a scene
of extraordinary beauty. The views both of and
from the castle keep and mound aro alike exquisite.
The erection of the fortress is by some ascribed to
Robert, Earl of Morton and Cornwall, who lived
A.D. 1440. The area of the site includes rather more
than an acre, surrounded by embattled walls six feet
thick, of a circular form, and covered with ivy. The
keep is at the north-west corner, on the summit of a
conical mount. The walls of the keep are about ten
feet thick, and rather more than thirty in height. This
detached part of the fortress was anciently divided into
apartments, and appears to have had a second floor, yet
there is no appearance of windows ; so that the whole
must have been lighted from the top, or by a small
cavity in the centre. The entrance is at an arched door
on the west, whence a winding path leads to a small
sally-port. The most entire part of the buildings is the
gateway, which consists of three strong arches, between
which are grooves for the port-cullises. These arches
support a square tower, containing an apartment, now
converted into a museum for natural curiosities. The
walls are covered with tapestry, of the most exquisite
workmanship and beauty, and supposed to be the most
valuable, and in the best preservation, of any in the

kingdom. In the house, the residence of Tucker,

Esq. are some valuable paintings, a curious organ, and
a variety of curiosities. Pursuing the course of the
Lynher, the groves of Shillingham form a pleasing feature
on its banks. Ince castle, the seat of Edward Smith,
Esq. is a square edifice with embattled walls and
towers, romantically situated on a peninsula projecting
from the northern bank. Having passed Ince, we con-
tinue our voyage through the widest part of the Lynher,

PORT ELIOT. 145

till we reach the promontory of Earth. After doubling
this point the channel is considerably narrowed, and
shortly after leaving what is properly denominated the
course of the Lynher, we proceed along the western
branch of the estuary to St. Germans, and disembark
at a picturesque landing-place beneath the finely-
wooded cliffs of

Fort Eliot.

In addition to the scenic charms of this justly noted
spot, are those of its two contiguous buddings, the
church and mansion- The former derives great
interest from having been once the Cathedral of the
Western Diocese. It is said to have been built by
Athelstan, who dedicated it to St. Germain, bishop of
Auxerre, in France, which prelate, with Lupus, bishop
of Troy, came into Britain in the year 429, for the pur-
pose of extirpating the Pelagian heresy. On the re-
moval of the episcopal dignity to Exeter, the manor
was divided between the bishop and the prior of the
convent at St. Germans ; and at the dissolution of the
monasteries the church became parochial. The external
appearance of the church is singular; but the visitor
will observe, that both towers were once octagonal.
The entrance door-way, as among the very choicest
specimens of existing Norman architecture, merits
particular attention. Within the church is a costly altar
tomb, by Rysbrack, to the memory of Edward Eliot,
Esq. who died 1722. The deceased is represented on
a couch, in the Roman costume ; in front, his lady is
seated in the attitude of contemplative sorrow ; and the
whole is adorned with figures of cherubims and sur-
mounted by the family arms. Here are also monuments
of the Glanvill, Trevanion, and Movie families. In the
south aisle is a low ornamented recess, supposed to
have contained the effigy of an abbot. Another recess
is called 'the bishop's throne ;' and among other rem-
nants of antiquity preserved in the old tower, is a
L

146 stranger's guide.

curious oak chair. The altar, formed of oak, and of
fine workmanship, was the splendid donation of the
Eliots ; as was also the marble font. An inscription
on the gallery at the west end, records the names of the
bishops of the see. The original burial ground, no
longer used for a cemetery, is converted into a lawn,
separating the church from Port Eliot 'house ; and
being in a mild and sheltered situation, the vegetation
of the shrubbery and gardens attains a great degree of
luxuriance. Port Eliot house is partly modern, and
partly formed by the remains of the old Priory. The
dining-room was formerly the monk's refectory. In the
various apartments are select pictures by the best masters,
old and modern. The recent additions to the house
have been made by the present noble proprietor the
Earl St. Germans.

The scenery at Notter Bridge, N.E. of St. Germans,
is accounted romantic. As an object for observation on
the voyager's return, we may particularize the woods of
Sheviock opposite Earth farm, through which there is a
direct way to Sheviock church, built in the 14th century
by the Dawnay family. The monuments are unusually
interesting. Among them are the effigies of Sir Edward
Dawnay, and his Lady ; the figure of an armed knight
with a lion at his feet, &c.

As a postscript to this excursion, we may mention,
that St. Germans may betaken in the way from Devon-
port to Liskeard, diverging from the high road at
Trebow mill. Much of the Liskeard road is beautiful,
varied as it is with numerous views of the Lynher river
and its branches. Liskeard, about i 7 miles from Tor-
point, is a small town with an excellent inn, a good
market and respectable neighbourhood. The Eliza-
bethan residence, north of the town, has been recently
erected by W. Glencross, Esq , from designs by the
author.

South of Liskeard is the small sea port of Looe,
which, according to Hitchins and Drew " taken in con-

ST. neot's, etc. 147

nection with its river, bridge, and town, on each side of
the creek, its steep acclivities, winding vales, towering
hills, and pendant gardens, its island rising from the
sea, and the waves that break upon its shores, exhibits,
perhaps, within a narrow compass, one of the most
picturesque and captivating scenes that the shores of
Cornwall can present."

St. Neots, a few miles N.W. of Liskeard, is said
to derive its name from Neotus, the brother of Alfred
the great, who died here at the latter part of the 8th
century, and was removed to St. Neots, in Huntingdon,
where he also left his name. The church was formerly
dedicated to St. Guerir, and it is said, that Alfred being
sick, prostrated himself in prayer before the altar of the
saint, and was restored. It is an interesting structure,
more particularly remarkable for its painted windows,
which have lately been perfectly restored, and are
accurately delineated in a quarto volume recently
published.

One window exhibits the history of the creation, with
a label, in gothic letters, to each representation ; another
describes the deluge ; a third the legend of St. George ;
a fourth a series of representations from the legendary
history of St. Neot. The others appear to have been
embellished with figures of the saints.

L 2

148

EXCURSION TO TAVISTOCK, &c.

Tavistock, by the high road, is only 15 miles north of
Plymouth : but the stranger is recommended to proceed
by the irregular and circuitous route hereafter laid down,
and which will occupy him the whole day. He will
then sleep at Tavistock, either one, two, or three nights,
as time will allow ; understanding that this town is the
centre of a neighbourhood particularly distinguished by
objects of pictorial beauty or historic interest.

Whether from Plymouth or Devonport, the traveller
should proceed along the Saltash road (which will open
to him several views of the Tamar, and town of Saltash)
until he descend to the turnpike at Weston Mill, a rural
seclusion of too genuine character to escape his notice.
Asceiiding thence, he will journey onward through the
cottage settlement of King's Tamerton, whence he
catches a glimpse of the river Lynher branching west-
ward from the distant Tamar. While this is writing
a new line of road from Plymouth and Devonport to
Saltash is in progress. (See page 97.)

The loftily situated village of St. Budeaux claims parti-
cular remark. From the high ground, east and west of the
Church, is seen a prospect of singular extent and mag-
nificence, including a broad expanse of the Tamar, which
here assumes the character of a noble lake. At
St. Budeaux, the traveller will inquire his readiest way
to Tamerton Foliot. This village contains a number of
very excellent houses, inhabited by genteel families, who
have displayed their taste in selecting, as a place of
residence, one of the most beautiful villages in Devonshire.
The church is a neat edifice. In the north aisle is a
monument to the memory of John Copleston, Esq. and
Susanna his wife, with their effigies in rich attire. Near
the above is a sumptuous monument, of various kinds of
marble, to Copleston Bampfylde, who died at an early

ST. BUDEAUX, BUCKLaND ABBEY, ETC. 149

age : he is represented as engaged in study, and below are
elaborate inscriptions, in Latin and Greek, perpetuating
his talents and virtues. An elegant monument of white
marble, surmounted by a sepulchral lamp, is inscribed
to the Radcliffes, ancestors of the Rev. Walter Radcliffe,
of Warleigh. Maristow, the charming seat of Sir Ralph
Lopes, Bart, is situate at the inner extremity of the
Tavy estuary — at the mouth of this estuary is Warleigh
House. Further up the estuary is the church of
Beer Ferrers, containing several interesting monumen-
tal effigies. This neighbourhood is celebrated for its
lead mines, its strawberry gardens and cherry orchards.
It were gratuitous to call attention to the beauties of
Maristow. The house is observed on the right, in an
extensive lawn declining gently to the banks of the river :
the principal entrance, between two wings, commands
the estuary and the lofty ridges on the Beer side of the
Tavy, finely clothed in thick wood. The house is
spacious and elegant. A domestic chapel, neatly fitted
up, is attached, where service is occasionally per-
formed by the officiating minister of Bickleigh. The
walks through the grounds extend to a considerable
distance, affording at many different points interesting
prospects over a bold and woody tract : the tide has
been driven back from a considerable portion ofland at
the foot of the lawn, by means of an embankment.

Close to Maristow is the small village of Lophill,
with its mill, and other rustic accompaniments.
Beyond is the romantic village of Milton, and
further on Buckland Abbey, one of the seats of the
Drake family. The manor was originally dedicated to
the emolument of the church by the Countess of Baldwin
de Rivers, Earl of Devon; and in the year 1298, a
fraternity of Cistercian monks was transplanted from the
Isle of Wight to the convent at this spot; the revenues
of which were large. This valuable domain was pur-
chased in the reign of Elizabeth, by the great Sir Francis
Drake, and has remained in the possession of his

150 stranger's guide.

descendants to the present time. The house has under-
gone various alterations, but sufficient remnants of
antiquity exist to make it an object of interest. The
principal front towards the north is surmounted by a
square massive-looking tower. The hall, now used as a
billiard-room, has a handsome mosaic floor ; the pannels
and ceiling are sculptured with a variety of devices.
Here are preserved a number of family portraits, and the
sword and buckler of Sir Francis Drake ; in the other
apartments are the drum used by that commander in his
warlike expeditions, and the folio black-letter bible,
which proved his best companion in the voyage round the
world. Extensive vestiges of former buildings attest the
ancient magnificence of the abbey , but the most perfect
remnant of the former edifice is a turret in the court-yard,
battlemented, but now roofed in and used as a pigeon-
house. A pleasing walk through the grounds conducts
to the salmon weir on the Tavy, amidst wood and river
prospects of the most picturesque and imposing character.
A narrow road leads from the Abbey to the village of
Buckland Monachorum, pleasantly situated amidst
orchards, hedges, and trees. The church is a handsome
structure, with a lofty tower, turrets, and pinnacles.
The interior contains several monuments, particularly of
the Heathfields and Drakes ; but our attention will be
chiefly directed to one beautifully executed in marble, by
Bacon, to the memory of George Augustus Eliot, Baron
Heathfield of Gibraltar, general of his majesty's forces,
and governor of Gibraltar. He died in 1790, aged
seventy-two. The history of his heroic defence of the
important fortress which he commanded is known to
the whole world, and some of the circumstances are
detailed in four bas reliefs on the monument. The
other embellishments are Britannia, with the gate of a
fortress, inscribed, plus ultra ; a child, with a key, a
palm branch, and a shield ; and above, a medallion
portrait of the deceased general. Half-a-mile west of
Buckland, the traveller will wind round a steep descent

MORWELL ROCKS, ETC. 151

to Denham Bridge, which here crosses the Tavy in,
perhaps, its most romantic passage. Both above and
below the Bridge the scenery is, for a considerable,
distance, singularly beautiful Hatch Mill and the
" Virtuous Lady n Mine are noted objects on its course,
north of the bridge. Ascending the western steep, the
traveller will proceed onwards, bearing always to the
right until he reach Morwell Down. This he will cross
in a N.VV. direction, and reach Morwell House, now a
farm, but originally the hunting seat of the monks of
Tavistock. Here he may put up his horse and walk
on foot throngh the field to a small wood, whence he
will suddenly emerge upon the dizzy platform of a
perpendicular crag, and, if we mistake not, at the same
moment rapturously exclaim,

"Sublime and beautiful !"
Far below winds the Tamar, encircling the domain of
Harewood, (the seat of SirSalisburyTrelawny, Bart. M. P.)
beyond which is Calstock church. In the front distance
is Hingston Down. Above, below, around, and extend-
ing far onwards, are the fearful rocks of Morwell,
intermingled with underwood, and impressing with
admiration even those who may have traversed the
Alpine pass.

At the base of the rocks is Morwellham New Quay,
where there is a small but respectable inn, affording
good accommodation of every kind. Vessels of some
burden navigate the Tamar thus far, and, together with
the rail waggons, water wheels and mining machinery,
give much interest and animation to the scene. Behind
is an excavated way leading to the foot of an inclined
plane, 240 feet high, by which a communication is
effected between the river below and the Tavistock
canal above. The latter is carried through a tunnel
extending near two miles under Morwell Down !* At

* This great undertaking was commenced in 1803, and after
the incessant labour of fourteen years, was completed in 1817.

152 stranger's guide.

some distance beyond the Quay, is Weir Head, where
a fall of the river impedes further navigation, and gives
added beauty to a scene, otherwise most beautiful.
Still further up is " New Bridge," clad in the ivied
garb of age, highly picturesque as an object, and
serviceable as part of the high road between Tavistock
and Callington, in Cornwall. It may here be stated,
that the prospect of Morwell rocks from the Cornish
side of the Tamar is singularly fine.

Tavistock lies about five miles N.E. of Morwellham ;
and, anticipating the fatigue of the traveller, we leave
him to find his way there as best he may, and to gain by
a night's repose, fresh strength for the morrow. Should
it be agreeable to remain at Morwellham, a favourable
opportunity is thereby afforded of seeing that beautiful
portion of the Tamar between the Weir head and
Pentilly, including Cotehele woods and house, (see
page 168 J

Tavistock,

(situated on the Tavy, 15 miles from Plymouth, the
property of the Duke of Bedford, to whose eldest son it
gives the title of Marquis,) is attractive to the tourist
on account of its beautiful and interesting vicinity, and
as containing the remains of a celebrated abbey, founded
in 961. The gate house is still extant, and several
complete buildings near it. At the back of the Bedford
Hotel are also many interesting fragments, testifying the
original beauty and extent of the Abbey. Of the con-
ventual church nothing remains, except an arched
fragment in the church yard. The church, dedicated to
St. Eustachius, contains a handsome orgau, and monu-
ments to Sir J. Fitz, and Judge Glanville : also some
human bones of extraordinary size, which were found
in a stone coffin dug out of the ruins of the abbey,
supposed to be the remains of Adulph, who was
described by William of Malmsbury as being of such
gigantic stature that he could stride over rivers ten feet

TAVISTOCK, ETC, 153

wide ; arguing that the " rivers " in his time were
small and the men large. Here are two picturesque
bridges : the more eastern one forms part of a most
beautiful picture when viewed from the walk below the
Weir, or fall of the Tavy, at the back of the hotel.
This river presents a truly imposing aspect, when,
swollen by heavy rains, it rushes with savage fury over
its bed of granite rocks.

The Bedford Motel presents an exterior of modern
gothic example rarely to be met with in the smaller
provincial towns. The ball room within is worthy of
notice : nor must we omit stating, that Mr. Foulston
has in Tavistock, as well as at Plymouth, given sterling
proof of his professional accomplishments. The lecture
room and library, occupying parts of the old abbey
buildings, have been also renovated and fitted up by
Mr. Foulston. The literary institution is zealously and
liberally supported by the talents and subscriptions of
the inhabitants, and is on the most friendly footing with
the Athenaeum of Plymouth.*

* " Tavystoke," says Pvisdon, " is the chief place upon
Tavye's banks, where, in the dayes of Edgar, the first un-
resisted monarch of this lande, Orgarius, Earl of Devon, kept
his court ; the echo of whose faire daugdter Elfleda's heauty
sounded so loude in the king's ears, that it caused him to
employ Ethelwald, his minion, to woo her in his behalfe, to be
dignified with the title of a queene ; but, as sometyme it
falleth out, there is falsehoode in fellowshipp, this Earle sued
unto her for himselfe, and that with good liking of her father,
so as the king would consent, unto whom he returned this
answer, that ' the lady came farr short of such perfection as
fame gave out, and in noe wise for feature fitt for a king ;'
whereupon Edgar, mistrusting noe double dealing, soone con-
sented, and Orgarius gave his daughter to Ethelwald in
marriage ; after which her beauty was more liberally spoken
of than before ; whereof king Edgar taking notice, came into
Devonshire under colour of hunting to visit Duke Orgarius ;
which being apprehended by Ethelwald, he discovered the
truth to his lady, and earnestly besought her to save his life
from the king's danger j but she, shewing herself a true

154 stranger's guide.

The principal " lions" in this neighbourhood are
Endsleigh, and Lydford : but it must be understood,
that the Dartmoor scenery diverging N.N.E. and S.E.
of Tavistock, is replete with every variety between
verdant luxuriance and stony barrenness. The course
of the Tavy towards its source is particularly noted.
Lydford is distant from Tavistock about five miles. Its
distinguishing features are its torrent scenery and castle.
Formerly important as a great tin mart, and as the place
where the Stannary courts were held, its present
insignificance becomes interesting as a curiosity.
Ethelred II. had a mint at Lydford, some coins of
which are still preserved. In the reign of the con-
queror it sent members to parliament — it is now a
miserable village of cottages, with a small church, and
of its former state retaining only the ruins of its
castle keep.

Proceeding from Tavistock over Heathfleld Down,
the tourist arrives at the foot of Brent Tor, a conoidai
rock of granite, crowned with its miniature church, and
conspicuous as a land mark from all parts of the sur-
rounding country. The church is said to have been
erected as a grateful offering by some mariners, who,
having escaped shipwreck, vowed to build a church
upon this, the land mark, by which they were enabled
safely to steer into Plymouth sound. The church
(St. Michael's) is 37 feet long by 14 feet wide. On a
tablet opposite the door is inscribed " Upon this rock
will I build my church." A panoramic view from the
summit will well repay the toil of ascent.

woman, desired nothing more than the thing forbidden, dressing
herself with costlie ornaments to attend the coming of the
king, whom, with an amiable grace, she entertained ; which
so enflamed his desires that, palliating his affection for the
present, he went forth an hunting, where, at a place called
YVillverley, since Warlewood, the earle was found slaine with
an arrow (as some will, others with a javelin), and shortly
after king Edgar tooke fayre Elfleda for his queene."

LIDFORD, ETC. 155

Proceeding onwards, about 2 miles, the traveller
arrives in the vicinity of a cascade, not so remarkable
from its body of water, as from the depth of its fall,
and the secluded and beautiful character of the scenery
around. A guide will be necessary to conduct the
visitor to the best point of observation, which is approach-
able by a circuitous descent.

Regaining the road, he will proceed towards Lydford
until he arrives within about a quarter of a mile S. of
the village. A hollow murmuring, as of a caverned
torrent awakens his attention, and increases in loudness
until he arrives upon a small bridge of rough masonry,
which, being hedged in on either side, would seem to
span the superficial stream of a common brook, but for
the mysterious noise beneath. He looks over the
parapet, and indistinctly perceives through the thickly
entwining foliage, the torrent of Lyd furiously rushing
over the rugged bed of a narrow chasm eighty feet
below ! Risdon, in describing the bridge, observes,
" the river is here gathered into such a streight by the
fretting of the earth between the rocks, that it seemeth
to cavern itself as loath to see the desolation of the
place. It maketh such an hideous noise, that being
only heard and not seen, it causeth a kind of fear to the
passengers, seeming to them that look down to it a deep
abyss, and may be uumbered among the wonders of this
kingdom."

This spot has been the scene of more than one suicide.
Perhaps the most distressing instance is that of a poor man
of the neighbouring village, who, being visited with tem-
porary fits of insanity, contrived to elude the vigilance
of his attendants, and leaping naked out of his chamber
window, ran yelling down to the bridge, over the parapet
of which he threw himself into the roaring abyss beneath.
Another story exists of a gentleman, Captain Williams,
of Exeter, who, being involved in pecuniary embarrass-
ments, resolved on self-destruction, and fixed on Lydford
bridge for the completion of his horrible purpose. On

156 stranger's guide.

his arrival at the bridge he endeavoured to make his
horse leap over the parapet, which not being able to
effect, he dismounted, threw his saddle into the yawning
gulf, and then himself. An anecdote is also related of
a London traveller, who, in passing the village during a
very dark and inclement night, was much surprised by
an unaccountable bound which his horse made in the
middle of his career. At Tavistock he was informed
that Lydford bridge had given way the night preceding,
and then he recollected, with a shudder, that the strange
leap which his horse had taken must have been across
the bridgeless chasm.

Ascending from the bridge, the church is passed on
the left, and the stranger, entering the once important
borough of Lydford, proceeds to inspect all that is left
of a castle, the history of which includes some anecdotes
of cruelty, parallel with those of the " Bridge of Sighs "
and dungeons of Venice. On a mound, at the end of
an area formerly surrounded by a wall and fosse, stands
the shell of the " donjon keep," 50 feet square, and
40 feet high. In the centre of the thick walls are stone
staircases, leading to rooms whose floors are gone. In
this castle used to be held the Stannary Courts, which
had the power of trying and punishing persons who
offended against the laws of the Stannaries. The
dungeons of the castle were so bad as to give rise to the
adage — "Lydford law punishes first and tries after."
Criminals were detained here a month, year, or longer,
a goal delivery taking place only once in ten years ;
which circumstance was complained of by petition in
the reign of Edward III. who issued a commission to
redress this grievance. In 1512, Richard Strode, Esq.
member of parliament for the borough of Plympton
Earle, having exerted himself to procure an act to
prevent the blocking up of harbours by the operations
of stream works, was prosecuted by the tinners at their
court held at Crockern-tor, and sentenced to pay a
severe fine. On his refusal to comply with the penalty,

LIDFORD, ETC. 157

he was confined in the loathsome dungeons of Lydford
castle for more than three weeks, heavily ironed, and
fed on bread and water.

Considerable traces of ancient buildings were to be
seen at Lydford when Risdon wrote his Survey of
Devon, (about the year 1630). This author says " they
can shew you where the gates stood, and also the
foundation of the walls that encircled it, (the town)
compacted of moorstone and lime, which they lighted
on as they digged their fields. v

About a mile from the castle, on the common, is
Kate's fall, where the Lyd rushes in its full body over a
rocky descent of 30 feet. It is said to have derived its
name from the melancholy fate of a poor market woman,
who, attempting to urge her horse across the river,
above the fall, wTas carried down the stream, and hurled
into death by the cascade. The horse also suffered the
same fate ; and " having paniers, remained for some
time pressed in the narrow channel " at the top of the
fall.

To vary his return, it is recommended that the
tourist proceed by a cross way to the high road, between
Oakhampton and Tavistock. Having reached it, he
need not be told his course homeward is southerly.
On his left is the rising ground of Dartmoor. As he
approaches Tavistock, the scenery becomes more varied
and interesting. Leaving Brent Tor distant on his right,
he will pass through the busy districts of Wheal Friend-
ship and other extensive mines, yielding tin, copper, &c.
Descending thence, he overlooks the progress of the
Tavy through the valley on his left, and, at length,
reaching the level of its stream, passes Hazeldon, the
residence of C. V. Bridgman, Esq. designed by the
author, and proceeds, between Park Wood House,
close on his left, and Mount Tavy, on the opposite side
of the river, into Tavistock.

The architectural character of Park WTood House will
not fail to attract notice. It is from Mr. Foulston's
M

158 stranger's guide.

designs, and belongs to the Rev. W. Evans, (Unitarian
minister) whose lady and daughter have here established
a boarding school. Mount Tavy, attractive by its tree-
clothed elevation and the neat mansion on its summit,
is the property of John Carpenter, Esq.

159

ENDSLEIGH.

Endsleigh, the cottage retreat of His Grace the Duke
of Bedford, is unequalled by any other example of the
kind that has come within the author's observation.
It is distant a pleasant drive of about seven miles from
Tavistock. Leaving the town in a N.W. direction we
follow the Launceston road (observing in our way the
neat residence of — Wilson, Esq. and others, as we
proceed) until our more decided attention is arrested
by the modern gothic elevation of the Milton Abbot
free school on the right, and two corresponding
examples of cottage design on the left. Beyond these
at a short distance, is seen the village and church of
Milton Abbot, which formerly appertained to the
manor of Tavistock Abbey, and is now the property
of the Duke of Bedford. The school building alluded
to, was erected by His Grace.

Passing between the two Lodges aforesaid, we enter
the rustic domain of Endsleigh, and follow an agreeable
drive to the cottage entrance at the back. The usual
permission having been obtained, we first survey the
interior of the Cottage, under the guidance of the house-
keeper. Of the various apartments, the dining room
claims most particular notice — not only as regards its
elegantly appropriate decorations, but also in respect
to the prospect from its " emblazoned window," which
overlooks the lengthened perspective of a noble terrace,
and a variety of charming objects, near and remote,
above and far below. The Cottage has been built from
designs by Sir J. Wyatville, and exhibits all the prouder
varieties of an humble style. The terrace is perfect in
beauty — enclosed on one side by a bank of shrubs and
flowers, and open on the other to a mead below,
shelving towards the Tamar, from the opposite side of
which the Cornish shores rise to a considerable elevation.
m 2

160 stranger's guide.

The view, looking down the river upon the woods on
the Endsleigh side, is enchanting. A walk through these
woods, as far as the Swiss Cottage, is a positively en-
joined duty of the day; nor must the Grotto at the end
of the Terrace escape observation. The principal
feature in the secluded walks at the back of the house,
is the Dairy, a bijou of its kind.

Should circumstances permit, the stranger may be
gratified by extending his journey to Launceston. At
some distance beyond Milton Abbot, he will diverge
from the old into a new line of road, which conducts,
by an easy descent, down the side of a valley to
Lowleigh Bridge, the first view of which, on winding
round the excavated road-way is of distinguished beauty.

About three miles beyond is the ancient borough of
Launceston, approached by a road of steep descent,
whence the lofty remains of its castle above, and ancient
gate below, present an appearance singularly picturesque.
Opposite the south gate, is another on the northern side
of the town, from which a fearfully steep road leads to
the bottom of the hill, on the brow of which the town
is situated. Till lately this was the thoroughfare : but
a new road has been constructed to the great accommoda-
tion of coach and cart trafic.

The castle, (taken from its Saxon possessor by
William I. and conferred upon the Conqueror's half-
brother), remained the strong hold of the Earls of
Cornwall until the time of Edward III. During the
civil wars it was successively assailed and defended by
Charles and the parliamentary forces. Such was the
acknowledged strength of the fortress in early times, that
the monastic clergy congregated' around it for safety.
This accounts for the number of chapels that existed
within the fortress. The chapel of St. Mary Magdelene
was made the parish church in 1520; nor is it often we
observe such a profusion of rich carved work as we
have to admire on the exterior of this building. The
visitor will, of course, not fail to see it. Within are

LAUNCESTON, ETC. 161

monuments, bearing the names of Lawrence, Pyper,
and Vyvyan.

The Castle ruins are extensive, and highly picturesque
in certain select points of view. If the mound be
wholly artificial, it is a gigantic work. The circular
Keep of concentric towers, the one within, and above
the other, is an interesting curiosity and striking object.
It is worthy of examination, and approachable without
much difficulty. According to Borlase, " the whole
keep is 93 feet in diameter ; it consisted of three wards :
the wall of the first ward was not quite three feet thick ;
and therefore, I think, could only be a parapet for
soldiers to fight from, and defend the brow of the hill.
Six feet within it stands the second wall, which is
twelve feet thick, and has a staircase three feet wide, at
the left hand of the entrance, running up to the top of
the rampart : the entrance of this stair-case has a round
arch of stone over it. Passing on to the left, you find
the entrance into the innermost ward, and on the left of
that entrance a winding stair-case conducts you to the
top of the innermost rampart; the wall of which is 10
feet thick, and 32 feet high from the floor ; the inner
room is 1 8 feet 6 inches diameter ; it was divided by a
planking into two rooms." Opposite the Launceston
hill is another equally steep, on which is situate the
church of St. Stephens. At the back of this is Werring-
ton Park, a seat of the Duke of Northumberland.

About 9 miles S.S.W. of Launceston, is the famous
Cheese Wring, a pile of granite stones, exhibiting a sin-
gular example of accidental construction. The stones,
seven or eight in number, increase in size as they mount
upwards, the superior blocks seeming to occupy a very
unstable position. The height of the pile is from 30 to
35 feet; and its strength is sufficiently proved by its
having, perhaps from the subsiding of the deluge, braved
the furious storms which range with singular violence
over the face of this barren moor-land. It should also
be stated that the Cheese Wring is accompanied by
m 3

162 stranger's guide.

several other piles of granite, scarcely less curious in
form and position ; while the general scene around may
be mentioned as a most fitting haunt for the Genius of
Desolation.

About a mile S. of the Cheeswring is a Druidical
remain, called the Hurlers, an assemblage of rude stone
pillars, formed into three circles, and believed by the
peasantry to have once been men, who were petrified for
hurling (a common Cornish sport) on the sabbath-day.

Rather more than a mile South of the Hurlers is the
church of St. Cleer, a very handsome building ; and at
a small distance from it is the celebrated well, to which
the power of effecting miraculous cures, was formerly
ascribed.

From hence we proceed to Tavistock, through Cal-
lington. The latter, though small, is an improving
town, and is distinguished by its weekly market.
An extensive market court, surrounded with slated sheds
on granite columns, together with a market inn, large
corn chamber, and weighing room, have been lately erect-
ed by Alexander Baring, Esq. (Lord of the Manor), from
designs by the author.

Passing over Hengeston Down, we leave on our left
Kitt hill, surmounted by a wind machine, employed in
working the pump of a tin mine. At the east end of
the down we come in view of Morwell rocks, before
noticed as a striking picture viewed from this quarter.
New Bridge will also please as a picturesque object
beautifully situated. Three miles further to the N.E.
we arrive at Tavistock.

163

EXCURSION— DARTMOOR.

A road, leading East from Tavistock, conducts into
the heart of Dartmoor. This dreary but interesting
waste comprises not less than 130,000 acres. The
legends of the moor speak of" winged serpents" in the
low, and wolves in the high lands : also of wild men
noted for their swiftness of foot. The surface of the
moor is undulating, and varies in height from 400 to
2,100 feet above the sea. Mean height 1,782 feet. It is
20 miles long; and in some parts 11 wide. In its
numerous furrows are collected the waters which supply
the rivers Dart, Teign, Tavy, Taw, Plym, Cad, Erme,
Yealm, and 48 minor streams. Though generally pre-
senting the severest expression of barrenness, it has its
vallies and skirting declivities of great beauty. The
scenery about Drewsteignton on the N.E., and Holne
Chase on the S.E., is romantic in the extreme ; and in
many other quarters of the forest, where verdure and
beauty are not, there is yet harvest for the antiquary.
In 1827-28 the Rev. S. Rowe, Mr. Woollcombe, Col.
C. II . Smith, and Mr. Prideaux, explored these com-
paratively "unknown regions;" and the issue of their
joint researches, drawn up by Mr. Rowe, forms a most
interesting paper in the Transactions of the Plymouth
Institution.

" On the moor," says Mr. Rowe, " and within its
precincts, are to be found examples of druidical
antiquity, including the sacred circle — avenues — the
cromlech — the kistvaen — the rock idol — rock basin —
monumental pillar — cairn or barrow dwellings and
trackways." The most perfect cromlech is at Drews-
teignton ; but, without exceeding the measure of a day's
excursion, several interesting remains may be seen.
Between 4 and 5 miles from Tavistock is Merivale
Bridge, where the remains of an ancient British village

164 stranger's guide.

claim the notice of the tourist. " Here is a pair of
druidical avenues, parallel to each other, 105 feet apart,
running East and West; the longest 1,143 feet, the
shortest 792. The stones of which they are formed are
scarcely two feet above the ground, placed at irregular
distances, but generally about 3^ feet apart. The short-
est terminates in a circle, and the longest has a circle at
midlength." Near these parallelitha are a fallen crom-
lech, tombstone, barrow, circle, maen or obelisk ; and,
nearer the road, the remains of a hut village, and other
fragments. Pursuing the road due east, we pass the
head of the Devonport leat, and arrive at Two Bridges,
from which, a mile distant, rises Crockern Tor, accounted
the centre of the moor, and celebrated as the seat of
Stannary justice, — Lydford Castle being that of Stannary
punishment. Even within the memory of the now pass-
ing generation courts have been held here ; and, till
some years back, the judge's seat, juror's bench and
court table, were to be seen distinctly hewn in the moor-
stone on the summit of the Tor. Near Crockern Tor,
on the N.W. is " the lonely wood of Wistman," the
solitary relic of Dartmoor forest, consisting of decrepit
oaks, battling as it were with granite rocks ; but so
stinted in nourishment as to attain a growth not higher
than seven feet.

Retreat we now to Prince Town — a town by no means
princely, at least in its present state, which is that of a
poor deserted village. The town simply originated
in the erection of the prison-of- war adjoining, but having
lost this attraction for persons in different branches of
trade, many of its dwellings are now deserted. The
prison consists of seven distinct buildings of two stories
in each, for the hammocks of the prisoners, and a large
loft over for the purpose of exercise in inclement weather.
Adjoining is the hospital, with spacious and airy wards,
dispensary, &c. and a very complete cooking-house and
laundry. The lofty wall which surrounds the buildings,
forms a circle nearly a mile in circumference, inclosing

PRINCE TOWN. 165

an area of thirty acres. The great gate on the western
side is arched over with immense blocks of granite, on
which is engraven the appropriate inscription — Parcere
Subjectis. Immediately opposite is the ample reser-
voir, from winch the whole establishment is supplied
with water. The prison has been known to contain
nine thousand six hundred men at one time ; and the
barracks adjoining are well adapted to the accommoda-
tion of a number of troops sufficient for the secure cus-
tody of the prisoners. A neat church has been erected
at Prince-town, where service is performed everySunday.
Tor Koyal, the occasional residence of the late Sir
Thomas Tyrwhitt, is situated south of the town. This
enterprising gentleman succeeded in rearing some planta-
tions, and in redeeming a portion of cultivated land from
the surrounding waste ; the further improvement of
which will be considerably facilitated by the completion
of the iron railway from Prince-town to Plymouth.

If, in returning to Tavistock, the traveller can contrive
to see the course of the river Walkham, between
Hockworthy bridge and Vixen Tor, he will find ample
opportunity for the employment of his pencil.

The course of the Mew or Meavy, is beyond the reach
of one day's excursion from Tavistock ; but it is a favor-
ite with all lovers of the picturesque. Its springs, a
short distance S.W. of Prince Town, and pursuing its
course through a wild valley, passes the weir head of the
Plymouth Leat ; half a mile below which is Sheepstor
bridge. The scenery is, hereabout, truly fine. At the
bottom of a ravine is the river : halfway up the northern
acclivity flows the Leat, rounding the base of a perpen-
dicular cliff of startling appearance, and said to have
been a rock idol. The southern acclivity is richly
wooded ; in one part of it, concealed from distant view
by foliage, is a cascade : behind rises the granite mass
of Sheepstor. Further down is the village of Meavy,
with its venerable oak, said to have been planted by
Sir Francis Drake ; and thence the river flows through

166 stranger's guide.

the charming vale of Meavy until it joins the Cad or
Plym, at Shaugh bridge.

The direct road from Tavistock to Plymouth has
its points of beauty. The scenery which presents
itself on descending from Greenofen to Bedford bridge,
will certainly be acknowledged as richly pictorial.
The small mine seen first is Poldice tin mine ; the
larger works at the bottom, near the bridge, are those
of Wheal Franco, a copper mine. Proceeding onwards
by a long ascent, we observe Grimstone Hall on the left,
the seat of J. Collier, Esq. M.P. and the village of
Horrabridge below. The moor scenery then opens
upon us as we enter upon Roborough down, which
is, as it were, the western vestibule of Dartmoor forest.
Here, to the right of the road, we observe a large
mass of rock, curious in its form and solitary insulation.
On the right below lies Yelverton, the village of
Meavy distantly appearing in the valley beyond.
The higher grounds of the Down command a fine pros-
pect of the distant Cornish hills, with the woods of
Bickham (the seat of J. H. Gill, Esq.) in the foreground.
A clump of fir trees and two gate lodges mark the en-
trance to Maristow, before mentioned as the beautiful
residence of Sir Ralph Lopes, Bart. Mount Edgcumbe
and Staddon, the boundaries of Plymouth Sound,
appear in the distant south. Passing through the vil-
lage of Jump, we proceed to that of Knackersknowle,
catching a brief glance at Hamoaze S.W. in the distance.
About J mile on, we descend by a truly scenic piece of
road, between the entrance lodges of Manadon on the
right, and Widey on the left— important country
residences belonging respectively to the Parlby and
Morshead families. Here the road has two divergences,
the one towards the right leading to Devonport, the
other to Plymouth. In following the latter we pass
Hartley, belonging to — Howard, Esq. on the left ; and,
shortly after, descend an excavated piece of road, by the
tasteful cottage residence of John Foulston, Esq. whose

NORTH HILL. 167

name, as the leading architect of Plymouth, has been so
often mentioned in these pages. Crossing Mutley
Plain, whence, in an easterly direction, is obtained a
passing glimpse of Saltram woods and lake, we ascend
North hill, on which several pleasing residences are
situated. That immediately on the west side of the road
belongs to A. B. Johns, Esq. whose high credentials as
a landscape painter may be found on the walls of every
picture fancier in the neighbourhood. On the right of
the descent is the Plymouth reservoir. The fragment
of old architecture in the central part of the wall, formed
the front of a conduit building, lately situated in the
area at the head of Old Town-street, by which we now
re-enter Plymouth.

168

TAVISTOCK EXCURSION.
SUPPLEMENTARY.

From Morwellham Quay to Pentillie, following the windings
of the river, is about six miles. Rounding the peninsular pro-
jection of Harewood, (which Mason, in his poem of Elfrida,
has made the scene of the love of Ethelwold, and of the mis-
fortunes consequent on his marriage with the fair daughter of
Ordgar, ) we leave Rumley on our left, and, making another
sweep, arrive at the quays of Calstock, the church of which,
situated on an eminence, commands a view of the course of
the Tamar at least twenty miles in extent. At the east end is
a small chapel, with several monuments of the families of
Cotehele and Edgcumbe. The whole building is of Cornish
granite. Further down is Ward-house on the left, and on the
right the venerable woods of Cotehele appear, richly clothing
the cliffs down to the water's edge. An avenue of chesnut
trees conducts from the river to the house. The-Gothic chapel,
partially concealed in the deep foliage, was built by Sir Richard
Edgcumbe, comptroller of the household to Henry the seventh ;
and an inscription on the northern wall of the interior, from
Carew's Survey, informs the reader of the cause of its erection.
" Sir Richard Edgcumbe was driven to hide himself in those
his thick woods, which overlook the river, what time being-
suspected of favouring the Earl of Richmond's party against
king Richard the third, he was hotely pursued and narrowly
searched for, which extremity taught him a sudden policy — to
put a stone in his cap, and tumble the same into the water,
while these rangers were fast at his heels, who looking down
after the noise, and seeing his cap swimming thereon, supposed
that he had desperately drowned himself, gave over their far-
ther hunting, and left him liberty to shift away, and ship over
into Brittaine ; — for a grateful remembrance of which delivery
he afterwards builded, in the place of his lurking, a chapel. "
Cotehele house appears to have been erected in the reign of
Henry the seventh. "It exhibits," saysMr.Rowe, "a proud
monument of feudal splendour, the unnumbered seasons that
have rolled over its battlements having added interest to its
appearance without affecting its stability. The entrance is
through a Gothic arch into a quadrangular court, surrounded

COTEHELE AND PENTILLIE, 169

by buildings composed of granite. The hall, which is pre-
served with all the characteristic appendages of feudal dignity,
presents an interesting specimen of the furniture and weapons
used by our ancestors. The walls are hung with coats of mail,
shields, helmets, gauntlets, arquebuses, bows, arrows, spears,
swords, and other instruments of offensive and defensive war-
fare. At the upper end of the hall, the figure of a warrior,
armed cap a -pie, appears to frown on the degenerate sons of
modern times. Immense antelopes' horns, and tusks, trophies
of the prowess of the Nimrods of the day, are suspended from
the walls. On the windows are emblazoned some armorial
bearings, much injured by time. From the hall we enter,
through a dining-room hung with tapestry, the chapel, where
the family were accustomed to perform their devotions, sepa-
rated from the domestics and vassals by an open screen. The
altar-cloth of rich crimson velvet, ornamented with figures of
the apostles and other devices, has been removed, for the pur-
pose of preservation, to the state bed-room. The stair-case
leading to the upper apartments is adorned with several por-
traits, whose lineaments time has nearly obliterated. One is
said to be the founder of the mansion. The state bed-room,
and the anti-chamber, are hung round with tapestry, an object
of general admiration. The contest of Romulus and Remus,
and the tale of the Sabine virgins, are depicted with accuracy,
freedom, and effect. An apartment in the north tower is fur-
nished with antique ebony chairs ; and at the fire-place are
immense brazen dogs. These will be remarked in all the other
apartments, which are entirely destitute of grates — the ample
hearths of the chieftain being always supplied with fuel from
his woods The tapestry of this room is devoted to the unfor-
tunate loves of Hero and Leander. The prospect from the
windows extends over rich woodland scenery. Another cham-
ber contains a variety of old china, a model of a canoe, and
a curious music-book dated 1556. Among the numerous
ancient curiosities, besides those already described, are some
elaborately-carved cabinets, embroidered couches, a mirror
richly ornamented with bead work, a variety of drinking-
vessels, candlesticks, and other earthenware and metal furniture
of grotesque forms and antique workmanship/'

Pentillie Castle, the residence of J. T. Coryton, Esq. is
noted as a select modern specimen of Tudor architecture, from
designs by W. Wilkins, Esq. R.A. The internal "finishings"
are spoken of as " superb," and as including "one of the most
beautifully painted windows in the Kingdom.*' The lands
around assume a variety of bold and picturesque forms, en-
inveloped dense masses of umbrageous woods, or partially

170 SUPPLEMENT.

shaded by scattered groups of flourishing trees, harmonizing
with the lordly appearance of the castle, which seems the chief
of the fine district that it commands, and forms one of the most
charming features in the scenery of the Tamar. A tower, on
a conspicuous eminence in the grounds, was built for the sepul-
ture of Sir James Tillie, a former owner of this domain, whose
interment in this romantic spot has given rise to many ridicu-
lous stories, to which an air of probability has been given by
the narrative of Gilpin. But nothing can be more false than
his account of the body having been placed in a chair, with a
table laid out before it with bottles, glasses, &c. On the con-
trary, the body was placed in a coffin and deposited in a vault ;
and the choice of situation will not appear strange when it is
considered that in the room above Sir James Tillie had, per-
haps, enjoyed the happiest hours of his life. His last will and
testament has lately been examined by his heirs at Doctors'
Commons, and in this document it is observable that, so far
from his principles being atheistical, they breathe throughout
a disposition fraught with the utmost submission to the will of
Divine Providence, and a perfect confidence in the wisdom and
mercies of the Creator.

m

CARRINGTON,

The Poet.

It has been customary with most topographers, in
describing the neighbourhood of Plymouth, to quote
largely from the author of " Dartmoor," " Banks of
Tamar," &c. but the writer of the present volume is
rather induced to regard CARRINGTON as a great
leading object of local interest, not to be partially
employed by the Tourist's Guide, but to be thoroughly
perused by the Tourist himself.

It were an insult to remind the literary and critical
world of the exalted character of the late Mr. Carring-
ton's poetry, descriptive of those portions of Devon and
Cornwall which have been noticed in the foregoing
pages : but the " local " quality of his muse may have
left many persons indifferent to its strains, until now
that they are present among the various scenes which
form their subject.

Let every visitor and resident, therefore, who pre-
sumes not to regard himself as a true poet, nor as having
that power of extracting delights " which poets only
know," — let him seek in the pages of Carrington for
that essence of scenic beauty or grandeur, which is
deduced from a lively communion between the genius
of the place and the soul of the spectator.

The poems of Carrington have been lately published
in two small and beautifully printed volumes, edited
N 2

172 CARRTNGTON.

by the poet's son, H. E. Carrington, Esq. of Bath,*
who has prefaced the work with an account of his
father's life, a brief portion of which is autobiogra-
phical. An interesting notice of Dartmoor, shewing
that the poet's feelings have descended, in all their
warmth and delicacy, to his son, is followed by
" DARTMOOR," the poem; to which is appended
a valuable series of notes by the late Wm. Burt, Esq.
" MY NATIVE VILLAGE," and other minor poems,
complete the first volume ; the second being occupied
by " BANKS OF TAMAR," and a number of shorter
pieces, most of them breathing that spirit of " Local
Love," which had so deep a seat in the heart of their
gifted — but afflicted author. Wherefore " afflicted,"
his life and poems will most affectingly shew : how
loved and honoured in life, and how lamented in death,
there are many to testify. To embalm the recollection
of his once-valued companionship in fond and admiring
reminiscence, and to enjoy so much of him as the
printer has perpetuated, are all that is now left to us !
He was born in Plymouth, 1777, and died in the house
of his son, at Bath, on the 2nd of September, 1830.

* Proprietor of the " Bath Chronicle."

APPENDIX

175

STEAM PACKETS.

One of the London, Dublin, Belfast and Falmouth STEAM
COMPANY'S vessels, leaves Plymouth for London every
Friday ; and for Falmouth, Dublin and Belfast, every
Tuesday. The vessels now employed in this service are the
Shannon, City of Londonderry, Royal Tar, Thames and
William Fawcett. Agent's office, Vauxhall Wharf, Plymouth.
Agent, \V. Saunders.

One of the Liverpool ST. GEORGE STEAM COM-
PANY'S vessels, leaves Plymouth for Liverpool and Cork
every Monday and Friday ; and for London every Monday
and Thursday. The vessels now employed in this service are
the Hercules, Nora Creina, Victory, Glasgow, Herald and
Emerald Isle. Agent's office, Vauxhall Wharf, Plymouth.
Agent, R. Morris.

The Brunswick, steam vessel, leaves Stonehouse Pool at 12r
and Cat water at 1 every Monday and Thursday for Torquay,
Coices and Portsmouth, Agents' offices, Exchange, Plymouth ;
Brunswick Hotel, Stonehouse, &c. Agent, J. E. Blewett.

The Sir Francis Drake, steam vessel, leaves Plymouth for
Falmouth every Wednesday and Saturday ; and for Guernsey
every Thursday. Agent's office, Maritime Inn, Parade, Ply-
mouth ;. and Mr. Langdon's, Union-street, Stonehouse.

176 APPENDIX.

SAILING VESSELS.

The South Devon United Shipping Company was established
in 1828, the shares being held by the merchants and tradesmen
of the town and neighbourhood. The shares, originally £50
each, are now valued at £70 ; but no shareholder can sell
without first offering his share or shares to the Committee, a
precautionary measure to prevent the admission of persons who
cannot assist the concern by their shipments. The Company
have now (1836) seven schooners, viz. — The Saltram, Ply-
mouth, Storehouse, London, Tavistock, Liskeard, and
Launceston, built within the Port, and furnished with good
accommodation for passengers. They load at the Custom-
House Wharf, Plymouth ; and at Beal's Wharf, London; for
which they sail weekly in succession. J. Saunders, Wharfinger.

Besides this Company's schooners, there are employed in the
coasting trade, the Plymouth and London Union Shipping
Company's vessels, viz. — the Ann, Brownfield, Mary Ann,
Margaret, Minerva, Mould, Sarah, and William, which
load at Cotton's Wharf, Southside-Street, Plymouth ; and at
Cotton's Wharf, London. Peter Lawson and John Nettleton,
Wharfingers.

The Bristol Traders are at present the Prothesa and
Avon, the property of Messrs. Wingyett and Co. also from
Cotton's Wharf, Plymouth. John Nettleton, Wharfinger.

A constant communication is likewise kept up with Jersey
and Guernsey.

An account of the foreign trading is given in page 30.

APPENDIX. 177

MAIL AND STAGE COACHES.

QUICKSILVER MAIL for London every morning ; via
Ashburton, at ^ past 6, from Elliot's Royal Hotel, Devon-
port; and at i before 7, from the Mail office, Briton-side,
Plymouth.

BATH AND BRISTOL MAIL every evening ; via Totnes,
at 5, from Elliot's Royal Hotel, Devonport ; and from
the Mail office, Briton side, Plymouth, at k after .5.

The FALMOUTH MAIL every morning at 7, from Elliot's
Royal Hotel, Devonport.

SUBSCRIPTION COACH for London every morning ; at 9
from Elliot's Royal Hotel, Devonport; and at \ past 9
from Mason's Commercial Hotel, Old Town, and Mail
office, Briton-side, Plymouth.

STANDARD COACH for London, Bath, and Bristol, every
day except Sunday ; at 12 from Elliot's Hotel, Devonport ;
and at \ past 12 from Mason's Commercial Hotel, and
Mail office, Briton-side, Plymouth.

DEFIANCE for London every morning ; at | before 11 from
Weakley's Hotel, Devonport ; and at 11 from the White
Hart, Old Town, and Rowe's King's Arms, Briton-side,
Plymouth.

NIMROD for Barnstaple (through Launceston) every Mon-
day, Wednesday, and Friday ; at 9 from Elliot's Royal
Hotel, Devonport ; and at \ past 9 from Mason's Com-
mercial Hotel, Old Town-street, Plymouth.

TELEGRAPH for Barnstaple (through Okehampton) every
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday ; at i past 7 from
Rowe's King's Arms, Briton-side, Plymouth ; and
Weakley's Hotel, Devonport, at 8.

The TELEGRAPH for Kingsbridge ; at 10, on Tuesday,
Thursday, and Saturday mornings, from Mason's Com-
mercial Hotel, Plymouth.

The EXQUISITE for Kingsbridge; at 10, on Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday mornings, from the White Hart,
Old Town, and Rowe's King's Arms, Briton-side,
Plymouth.

178 APPENDIX.

HACKNEY COACHES.

STANDS— AT PLYMOUTH.

Royal Hotel Stand, for Five Carriages.— In George's-
Place, in the centre of the road.

Bedford-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — At the
distance of Thirty Feet from the Public-House known by the
name of the New Tree.

Old-Town-Street Stand, for Six Carriages. — In the
middle of the Street, with the Horses' Heads turned towards
the South, at the distance of Fifty Feet from the boundary
Wall of the Church Yard.

New Quay Stand, for Two Carriages.

Briton-Side Stand, for One Carriage, taking care in
all cases the thoroughfare is as little impeded as possible.

STANDS— AT STONEHOUSE.

Edgcumbe-Street Stand, for Four Carriages. — In the
middle of the Street, with the Horses' Heads turned towards
the East, in a line with the Dwelling-Houses numbered
4 and 11.

Durnford-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — In the
middle of the Street, at the lower end of Higher Durnford-
Stieet.

STANDS— AT DEVONPORT.

Fore-Street Stand, for Eight Carriages. — In the
middle of the Street, with the Horses' Heads turned towards
the East, leaving a space of at least Fifteen Feet to the East-
ward of Tavistock- Street, and that no Carriage shall stand
below it.

Catherine-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — At the
Lower Market-Gate.

Morice-Square Stand, for Two Carriages. — On the
South side of the Square.

APPENDIX. 179

G forge-Street Stand, for Two Carriages. — Opposite
the Chapel Wine Vaults, with the Horses' Heads turned
towards the North.

Every Driver of a Carriage which shall be waiting to
be hired, shall go from the Stand where he shall be hired,
either at Plymouth, Stonehouse, or Devonport, to any place
within either of those Towns, and take up his fare without any
additional charge, and proceed to any Stand in either of the
adjoining Towns for the respective Rates mentioned in the
subjoined Table ; but if sent for from Plymouth or Devonport
to any place in Stonehouse or Stoke, and then take up a fare,
shall be allowed One Shilling in addition to the sum he is
entitled to for the ordinary fare.

FARES— AT PLYMOUTH.

From any place in Plymouth, to any other place within the
same Town, except the Citadel, Victualling-Office, and
Coxside — One shilling and sixpence.

From or to any place in Plymouth to or from the Citadel,
the Victualling-Office, and Coxside — Two shillings.

From any place in Plymouth, to any other place within the
Parishes of St. Andrew and Charles, exceeding the distance
before mentioned — Three shillings.

FARES— FROM PLYMOUTH.

From any of the stands in Plymouth, to the Richmond
Baths, or to any of the stands in Devonport, or to any other
place in Devonport, not exceeding in distance the appointed
stands — Two shillings.

From any of the stands in Plymouth, to any place in
Devonport, exceeding in distance the appointed stands —
Two shillings and sixpence.

From any of the stands in Plymouth, to any place in Stoke
or Morice-Town, either by way of Stonehouse or Penny-come-
quick — Three shillings.

From any of the stands in Plymouth, to any other place
within the Parish of Stoke -D am erel, than those before-
mentioned — Three shillings and sixpence.

130 APPENDIX.

From the Citadel, Victualling-Office, and Coxside, to any
place in Devonporl, Stoke-Damerel and Stonehouse, an addi-
tional sixpence.

FARES— AT DEVONPORT.

From any place in the Towns of Devonport, or Morice-
Town, to any other place in the same Towns, (including the
Dock- Yard and Gunwharf)— One shilling and sixpence.

From any of the stands in Devonport, to the Richmond
Baths, Stoke Church, or the village of Stoke— Two shilling s

From any of the stands in Devonport, to any other place in
the parish of Stoke-Damerel, beyond Stoke Church or the
village of Stoke, an additional shilling.

FARES— FROM DEVONPORT.

From any of the stands in Devonport, to any of the stands
in Plymouth, or to any place in Plymouth, not exceeding the
distance of the appointed stands — Two shillings.

From any of the stands in Devonport, to any place in Ply-
mouth, (except the Citadel, Victualling-Office, and Coxside)
exceeding in distance the appointed stands — Two shillings
and sixpence.

From any of the stands in Devonport, to the Citadel,
Victualling-Office, and Coxside, at Plymouth — Three shillings.

From any of the stands in Devonport, to any place in the
parishes of St. Andrew and Charles, in Plymouth, exceeding
the distances before-mentioned, an additional shilling.

From Morice-Town or Stoke, to any place in Plymouth or
Stonehouse, an additional shilling.

FARES— FROM AND TO PLYMOUTH,
DEVONPORT, AND STONEHOUSE.

From any of the stands in Plymouth or Devonport, to any
stand in Stonehouse— One shilling and sixpence.

From any of the stands in Plymouth or Devonport, to any
place in the Parish of Stonehouse, beyond the stands — Two
shillings.

FARES— AT STONEHOUSE,

From any place in Stonehouse, to any other place in the
same Town, including the Naval Hospital— One shilling and
sixpence.

APPENDIX. 181

FARES-FROM STONEIIOUSE.

From or to any place in Stonehouse, to or from the Richmond
Baths, or any place in Plymouth or Devonport, exceeding in
distance the appointed stands, except the Citadel, Victualling-
Office, and Coxside, at Plymouth and Morice-Town, and
Stoke, in the Parish of Stoke-Damerel — One shilling and
sixpence.

From any place in Stonehouse, to Stoke Church, Morice-
Town, or the village of Stoke, or to any place in Plymouth,
beyond the appointed stands, (except to the Citadel,
Victualling-Office, and Coxside)— Two shillings.

From any place in Stonehouse, to the Citadel, Victualling-
Office, and Coxside, in Plymouth — Two shillings and sixpence.

From any place in Stonehouse, to any place in the parishes
of St. Andrew and Charles, in Plymouth, or to any place in
the parish of Stoke-Damerel, exceeding the distances before-
mentioned — Three shillings*

For Hackney Coaches with less than Four Wheels, or that
shall be drawn by not more than One Horse, Two-thirds only
of the preceding Rates shall be paid.

18*2 APPENDIX.

WAGGONS.

The waggons of Russell and Co. depart almost daily from
the warehouse of Mr. Courtis, Bedford-street, Plymouth.
The Van Carriage has been lately put aside.

THE LONDON FLY WAGGONS

From the Elephant, 112, Fore-Street, calling at the Old
White Horse Cellar, Piccadilly, through Salisbury , Shaftesbury,
Hindon, Mere, Wincanton, Sherborne, Yeovil, Crewkerne,
Ilminster, Chard, Axminster, and Honiton, to the Mermaid
Yard, Exeter, in 4J days ; and from thence, same night, to
the Waggon Warehouse, Kinterbury-Street. Plymouth, for
DevonpOTt and all parts of Cornwall.

THE BRISTOL FLY WAGGONS

From Shurmer's Warehouse, 13, Temple-Street, taking from
the Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool, Cheltenham, and
other Waggons, through Bridge water, Taunton, Wellington,
and Collumpton, to the Mermaid Yard, Exeter, in 34 hours ;
and from thence, same night, to the Waggon Warehouse,
Kinterbury-Street, Plymouth, for Devonport, and all parts of
Cornwall, arrive and depart every Monday, Wednesday, and
Friday.

Proprietors : — Wade and Shurmer, Birmingham ; Kino
and Ward, (late Woolcott and Co.) London ; Chadwell,
Bristol ; PADDON, (late Single,) Kinterbury-Street, Ply-
mouth.

SCHOOLS.

A difficulty has arisen which renders it advisable to avoid a
particular enumeration of the various schools, &c. which are
to be found in the three towns. The names of the several
Clergymen who receive pupils, and of the other leading
Schoolmasters are sufficiently before the local public, who may
exercise a privilege of recommendation, to the advantage of
the inquirer, scarcely allowable in a work of this kind.

183

INDEX,

TAGE.

Admiral's House 67

Antony ....•••*.... 143

Albemarle Villas, Stoke 89

Appendix 173

Architecture old, of Plymouth 13

modern, of ditto 14

modern, of Devonport 62

Assembly Rooms, Plymouth 16

Athenaeum 17

Barracks, Royal Marine .... 51

Baths, Union Street 7. 26

Back well's > 61

Banking Houses of Plymouth ............ 39

0f Devonport 72

Beggar's Island 1 43

Belmont House 89

Bickleigh 135

Bovisand Reservoir, &c. 102

Block House, Stoke 4. 90

Breakwater 99

Bridge Lary . . 127

■ Stonehouse 59

Chain and Steam Boat 95. 97

Buckl and Abbey 149

Monachorum *. 150

BrentTor „ 154

184 INDEX.

PAGF.

Borringdon 131

Budeaux, St. 148

Church of St. Andrew, Plymouth 21

Charles ditto 23

Stoke 90

Chapel, St. Andrew's, Plymouth 19

Charles ditto 24

in the Citadel ditto 25

■ on the Hoe ditto 9

Mariners' ditto 25.37

St. George, Parochial, Storehouse 50

St. Paul's ditto 50

in Naval Hospital ditto 51

St. Aubyn's, Devonport • 65

St. John's ditto 66

DockYard 66.76

Eldad 25

Ebenezer 25.51

• Independent 23.51.92

Presbvtetian 25

Unitaiian 23.66

Baptist 23. 66

Friends, Society of 23

Methodist 51. 66. 92

— — Calvinist 66

Moravian 66

Mount Zion 65

• Roman Catholic 51

<<i Providence, in Raleigh -Street, Plymouth,

(accidentally omitted in the body of the

work)

— Jews' Synagogue, in Catherine street, Plymouth

Carrington, Poet 171

Cann Quarry 134

Catwater Harbour 31

Cawsand Bay and Town 103. 121

Callington 162

Column of Devonport 3.62

Citadel of Plymouth 11

Cheese Wring, Cornwall 161

Coaches, Stage and Mail 32

Hackney 117

INDEX. 185
PAGE.

CrockernTor 164

Cotehele 168

Chelson Meadow 128

Charities of Plymouth 33 to 39

Storehouse 59

Devonport 70

Stoke 92

Custom House 25

Chamber of Commerce 32

Commercial Rooms, Plymouth 20

Stonehouse 58

Devonport

CrabTree 130

Cholera 47

Dartmoor 163

Dewerstone 135

DEVONPORT described ...... 3 and 61 to 68

Supplement 69 to 73

Dispensary of Plymouth 37

— ■ Stonehouse and Devonport 70

Dock Yard 74 to 86

Druidical Antiquities 162. 163

Eddystone Light House 104 to 112

Environs of the three Towns 5

Exchange 32

Excise Office 33

Eye Infirmary 38

Endsleigh 159

Ermington and Erme River 139

Fortifications — Devonport 61

Plymouth 11

Stonehouse £9

Free (Grammar School 35

Fore Street, Devonport 62

Fleet 139

Guildhall, Plymouth 23

Government House 67

186 ISDEX.

Gas Companies Z?GaA

Gun Wharf 32- ££

Germans, St. Church [ [ ' [ [ ] [ [ [ \ \ \ ^

Hoe „ . O O Q

— -, Curious Legend of the .... ■, f*

Hamoaze q -lio

Harbours 3' l%*

Hotel, Theatre, and Assembly Rooms! ! ! " * * i\

Hospital, South Devon and East Cornwall* ' '. '. '. '. ' \ 38 27 (r^

Royal Naval ' KZ£

♦ Military %>

Horticultural Society \\

Hackney Coaches 7 M T i£

Harewood " '. " * 7;£2']™

Hurlers " ** 151# 168

Historic Sketch of Plymouth .'""!!'!".!"" ^4

" " • Stonehouse [ [[ 50

■ ' * Devonport .....*! $q

Inns, principal, of Plymouth -. 7

. Stonehouse , ." • 49

. — _ Devonport gi

Institution, Literary " jp

'~r :::::::::::: 139- $

Ker Street, Devonport ] fi0

Key ham Point qX

Kitiey ^\\\\\\.\"; m

Kingsand ..""""""!!"! 121

Lary Bridge ]27

Library, Public, Plymouth ... .. \ to

Devonport ....'.'.' [ * [ * '■ ' g4

— — ■ Law rJ:

Medical Y.V.V/M'.V. *Q

Leat, Plymouth \ \ \ " * * \ \ \ * ' \ oq
Devonport .'.'.* * !!.'!' ! 6Q

Lodging Houses ' * \ \ ' ' * [ \ ' #* * 7 49 gl

INDEX. 187

PAGE.

Lidford Cascade and Bridge ] 55

Castle and Kate's Fall 156

Launceston Cattle 1 60

Liskeard and Looe 146

MORICE TOWN 4. 93

Mount Edgcumbe 3. 1J3

Batten 9

Wise 67

Market, Plymouth 13

• Stonehouse £8

Devonport 62

Manor Office, New, Stonehouse fcO

Mechanics' Institute, Plymouth 39

Devonport 73

Medical Society 39

Municipal Information, Plymouth 29

Stonehouse 58

— Devonport 69

Michael's St. Terrace (miscalled Cornwall Terrace) 89

Mill Bay 60

Marble Quarries 32. 9

Mew Stone 103

Maker 120

Maristow 149

Morwell Rocks 151

Millbrook 122

Meavy }ij5

Modbury ■ 139

Mathews, the Comedian, his Tomb 27(6)

Naval Hospital 55

Nicholas' Island 9.99

New Passage 93

New Roads 97

Newspapers Local 39. 73

Neot's, St. I47

Old Houses, Plymouth 13

Oreston Quarries 126

188

PAGE.

PLYMOUTH described . . , 1 to 27

Supplement 29 to 48

« Sound 4 to 99

Princess Square L3

Post Office, Plymouth 8. 33

Stonehouse 59

Devonport 62.73

Plympton St. Mary 131

PlvmptonTown 133

Plym Bridge 136

Powder Magazine 93.143

Pentillie 169

Prince Town, Prisons of War 164

Penlee Point 122

Port Eliot ....... 145

Quarries, Marble 32. 126

Limestone 126 and 9

Slate 136. 93

Granite 32

Rail Road 32. 134

Races 40. 128

Regatta 41

Riding School 40

Reservoir of Plymouth Leat 30

Devonport Leat 70

— Stonehouse 60

Plymouth Baths 27

Victualling Office 54

Bovisand 102

Rivers of Dartmoor 163

Richmond Walk 67

Rame Head and Chapel 122

STONEHOUSE described 3 and 49 to 57

Supplement 58

STOKE described 89. 4

Supplement 92

Sound, Plymouth 2. 4. 8. 99

Shag Stone 103

Staddon Point 102

INDEX. 189
PACE.

Storm of November, 1824 101

Sutton Pool Harbour 31

Shipping of Plymouth 30. 31 . 176

Steam Packets 33, 175

Ships in Hamoaze 3

Steam Bridges 95. 97

Semaphore 67

Spa Waters ^ 27

Schools public and for the Poor, Plymouth 34. 35. 36

• Stonehouse 59

« Devonport 70

' Stoke 92

Sussex Place, Plymouth 13

SharrowGrot 123

Saltash 143

Saltram 125. 129

Sheviock 146

Shaugh Bridge 135

TOR POINT, and Bridge 3. 95

Theatre Royal, Plymouth 16

Town Hall, Devonport 63

Trade of Plymouth 30. 31

Stonehouse 58

Devonport • • . 74>

Tavistock, Abbey, &c . 152

Trematon Castle 144

Tui nchapel 126

Tunnel on Rail Road 134

under Morwell Down 151

Thanckes 143

Three Barrow Tor 141

Tamerton 148

Tamar River 5

Union Baths 7. 26

Union Street, Remarks on 15

Victualling Yard, Stonehouse 52

Workhouse of Plymouth 33

■ — Stonehouse • . • . • 58

- Devonport 70

190

Windsor Terrace, Plymouth 8

Water Company 60. 69

" Water Question" 30

Warleigh 149

Yealm River and Yealmpton 1 37. 138

A CHOICE AND VERY EXTENSIVE

COLLECTION OF

NEW AND OLD BOOKS,

IN EVERY DEPARTMENT OF LITERATURE,

AND A LARGE STOCK OF

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OF EVERY DESCRIPTION,

FOR SALE AT REDUCED PRICES,

AT

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STAMP-OFFICE,

WHIMPLE-STREET, PLYMOUTH.

L B N *?9

PLYMOUTH :

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WHIMPLE-STREET.

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